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Disc Brake Engineering Thread

frodobaggins

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i am not sure what you gain with disk brakes on a truck like this. the shortcomings in braking are not so much the drum brakes, but the booster and the low pressure it generates. my re-engineered brake systems have all had stock brakes at the wheels, but you can lock them easily with one finger on the brake pedal. the other half of the brake system needs to be done first, and then i doubt anyone would want disk.

tom
You may be right, but it's always nice to have options. I for one would much rather clean disks than drums :)

The main reason I started this post is this is a common 'want' with not much in the way of info for a do it yourself type person. Hoping that will change here. Whether I decide to do this personally or not is still very much up in the air :)
 

HanksDeuce

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Prairieville, LA
I agree with frodo. If we can get a disc conversion kit for a reasonable price it will reduce the maintenance required and be able to survive trips to the local mud hole. No more feeler gauges through port windows to set the brake clearances. The pads should be cheaper than the shoes. The discs should be cheaper than the drums.

Keep up the good work guys!
 

mudguppy

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i am not sure what you gain with disk brakes on a truck like this. ...
reliability, essentially zero maintenance, life span, braking performance (w/ 1600's).

i enjoy the disc brakes but agree w/ you that the hydraulic and booster system is just as important to upgrade and was the main reason behind the hydro-boost conversion.
 

rchalmers3

Half a mile from the Broad River
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Irmo, South Carolina
Guys,

I don't drive on the highway. The stock brake system works fine for the low speed off road driving I do, so this thread does not apply to my needs. However I do dream a lot! In my opinion this thread should be expanded to incorporate power steering and the hydro-boost brake master cylinder.

These improvements are a package! Please continue the good discussion and collection of information, but please include the booster, pump, and steering component part identification that make the upgrade complete.

BTW, it will be good to include prices of ALL the parts, as you did on the first rotors you identified.

Thanks all,

Rick
 

frodobaggins

Active member
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Ruston, La
Guys,

I don't drive on the highway. The stock brake system works fine for the low speed off road driving I do, so this thread does not apply to my needs. However I do dream a lot! In my opinion this thread should be expanded to incorporate power steering and the hydro-boost brake master cylinder.

These improvements are a package! Please continue the good discussion and collection of information, but please include the booster, pump, and steering component part identification that make the upgrade complete.

BTW, it will be good to include prices of ALL the parts, as you did on the first rotors you identified.

Thanks all,

Rick
I don't think so. I think they need a separate thread for that. There is a thread linked in the first post for that type of discussion.
 

steve6x6x6

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Winter Haven, florida
Just some food for thought. Using the f350 calipers on the front instead of using the f550 makes the brackets longer and has more bend in the bottom bracket. If you notice on steves brackets the huge gusset he has support the bottom bracket after being bent. Also, think this was covered but you need to grind the saddle quit a bit on the caliper on the f550. Just info for the at home builder.

also the part number i always used for the rotors is RAYBESTOS Part # 8520.
The 1999 up f350 caliper is made to fit a 13" rotor not a 15" rotor, i do use this caliper on the 15" rotor but the frame of the caliper is modified to fit. As for the bottom bracket, the most important thing is that the weight of truck is pushing down on the bottom king pin and A36 steel will not last long. This area must be case hardened. Next week i will make a batch of brackets and can post pic's on this process.
 

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blackrock

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Phoenixville,Pa
The 1999 up f350 caliper is made to fit a 13" rotor not a 15" rotor, i do use this caliper on the 15" rotor but the frame of the caliper is modified to fit. As for the bottom bracket, the most important thing is that the weight of truck is pushing down on the bottom king pin and A36 steel will not last long. This area must be case hardened. Next week i will make a batch of brackets and can post pic's on this process.
What made you make this decision ? Did bracket fail at one point? Or show signs of fatigue. What are the original king pin caps made of? Thanks Kyle
 

ODdave

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lansing michigan
Dumb question, but looking at the pics.....My rear hubs are flipped ones pictured are not.. I assume front rotors would be needed on the rear then? How close would they get me to being correct?
 

steve6x6x6

Well-known member
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Winter Haven, florida
What made you make this decision ? Did bracket fail at one point? Or show signs of fatigue. What are the original king pin caps made of? Thanks Kyle
The very first disk brake brackets ( kits) i made 11 years ago up to today are the same. To the statments i made on case hard is for the people who copy my brake setup do not case hard their bottom bracket. The bottom cap is about 55 rockwell scale C, the case hard i do is 60 to 64, the same as atimken bearing race. Case hard pic's, to the rockwell bottom caps worn half way through.
 

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HanksDeuce

Well-known member
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Location
Prairieville, LA
I love this site. Very informative posts on the engineering of the brackets. I've been talking with Steve6x6x6 about the disc brake conversion to get away from drums. He is currently researching a solution that gets rid of the air booster altogether. I will let Steve post about that when he gets a chance. Keep in touch, Steve!

Note: BRAKES not Breaks is the correct term. :deadhorse:
 

frodobaggins

Active member
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Location
Ruston, La
The very first disk brake brackets ( kits) i made 11 years ago up to today are the same. To the statments i made on case hard is for the people who copy my brake setup do not case hard their bottom bracket. The bottom cap is about 55 rockwell scale C, the case hard i do is 60 to 64, the same as atimken bearing race. Case hard pic's, to the rockwell bottom caps worn half way through.
I'm not quite sure what I'm looking at in the last pic ? Could you explain a bit more ?
 

blackrock

New member
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Phoenixville,Pa
I'm not quite sure what I'm looking at in the last pic ? Could you explain a bit more ?

I believe Steve is showing factory bottom caps that have been worn threw. But do you really think this is cause the material inst hard enough? Becuase not all caps wear like that. Could it be caused by improper spacer on top cap? also never greasing the king pins? If the orginal caps are that hard then i agree that lower brake brackets should be equal. Thanks Kyle
 

steve6x6x6

Well-known member
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Winter Haven, florida
I'm not quite sure what I'm looking at in the last pic ? Could you explain a bit more ?
I should have done it step by step. First pic with a rose bud to 1,600 degress and then put the hardening powder on the hot spot. It welts into steel about 1/16 of an inch and place in cool water at about 1,100 degress. The pic of the bracket is after it came out of the bucket of water case hardened. The 3 caps, one is used very little and the other 2 were used long term with no grease. I have seen a complete hole through the cap and the king pin hanging out the bottom.
 
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