Dual fuel tank install

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emeralcove

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You replied; "I put that back on post 21. Both diagrams, one electrical and the other the plumbing."
Somehow I only saw the electrical drawing, thanks for clarification.
 

rmgill

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Since each tank has a pump, when one is in operation it forces the other tanks one-way check valve closed. There is no way any fuel is coming out of the non-used line.

I'm thinking about the issue of drawing fuel from the non-selected tank. I guess if you were to suffer an in tank failure (fuse blows) you could pull fuel from both tanks and possibly over fill the one tank. Just thinking through failure modes here.
 

army_nurse

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These are the kind of threads that help so much when considering my deuce projects. Thanks for all the great input. Not being mean but it saves me hours of screw up and wrench throwing episodes. Keep on keeping on>>>>>>>>>>>
 

rustystud

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I'm thinking about the issue of drawing fuel from the non-selected tank. I guess if you were to suffer an in tank failure (fuse blows) you could pull fuel from both tanks and possibly over fill the one tank. Just thinking through failure modes here.
Actually if a fuse blew in this system your fuel would shut-off. There is too much friction and to much pressure on the one-way valves for the small boost pump to overcome since it was never designed to "suck" the fuel. It takes about 2psi to overcome those valves.
 

Hard Head

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Question! I have a backup tank in the bed of my 5 ton. Currently I manually transfer via a pump with nozzle on that tank. I am thinking about using electric ball valves and putting a tee into the current fuel line from the main tank where the line connects to the first fuel water separator filter. Wiring would be simple as I could tie both to the same switch since they work the exact opposite of one another. I would use one N.O. (main tank) and one N.C. (second tank) valve. I purchased a 2 stage solenoid (N.O.) for my electric primer system that I recently installed to replace the check valve in that piping as it didn't work well at all with the IP pulling fuel thru the check valve between the 2 filters. The solenoid works but I found the motorized ball valves after the fact :(. Has anyone used the motorized ball valves and do you think that a simple tee and 2 of these valves are enough for connecting the tanks to the first fuel water separator.
 

rustystud

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Question! I have a backup tank in the bed of my 5 ton. Currently I manually transfer via a pump with nozzle on that tank. I am thinking about using electric ball valves and putting a tee into the current fuel line from the main tank where the line connects to the first fuel water separator filter. Wiring would be simple as I could tie both to the same switch since they work the exact opposite of one another. I would use one N.O. (main tank) and one N.C. (second tank) valve. I purchased a 2 stage solenoid (N.O.) for my electric primer system that I recently installed to replace the check valve in that piping as it didn't work well at all with the IP pulling fuel thru the check valve between the 2 filters. The solenoid works but I found the motorized ball valves after the fact :(. Has anyone used the motorized ball valves and do you think that a simple tee and 2 of these valves are enough for connecting the tanks to the first fuel water separator.
Sounds good but you need to take into account the fuel return from the injection pump. It needs to go back to the correct tank. How are you planning on doing this ?
 

rmgill

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My Dual Tank system uses a 2 position switch to control the left and right fuel tank pumps. (Really a single pole switch energizing a relay that powers the left tank defaulting to the right tank when not energized). Flow is controlled by a doubled 3 port valve (from an 809 series 5 ton tractor) to provide draw from the left or right tank and return to the same. Excepting for an instance where one of my hoses for the valve connection became crimped due to a too tight bend, it's all worked perfectly.
 

Hard Head

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Hi Rusty. I am glad you asked since I forgot to do this. My Bad!!! I will add a 3 way ball valve and tie it to the main / aux tank switch so it syncs with the tank.

Thanks!!
 

Modiconman

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Rusty,
Thanks for the informative post!
I see in one of your photographs, what appears to be a brake pressure gauge.
Why did you choose to install one? And what good data can you share about it?
Thanks,
Modiconman
 

rustystud

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Rusty,
Thanks for the informative post!
I see in one of your photographs, what appears to be a brake pressure gauge.
Why did you choose to install one? And what good data can you share about it?
Thanks,
Modiconman
The reason I installed it is I can monitor my brakes for adjustment. If the adjustments are out on the shoes the pressure will go down. (Your filling more of the wheel cylinder with a limited amount of fluid) . Pressure in a enclosed system stays the same from end to end, so when you increase the volume needing to be filled without increasing the volume of fluid the pressure will go down. Also if there is a leak the pressure will go down. So when I get in my truck I apply the brakes and see where the gauge goes. If it is less then 800psi I know something is wrong.
 

cranetruck

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Sorry for not being very active on this forum during the last several years, but noticed this thread today.
Having had bad experience with check valves and solenoid valves when using biofuels, I decided to go with motorized valves for my xm757 dual tank system. Here is one image showing the two 3-way valves, one for feed and one for return.
I'll look for more pictures and will post if of interest...
2013 0926 1510 Thursday, xm757 motorized valves, DSCN5901 (1).jpg
 

Modiconman

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Rusty, I kinda thought that was your thinking, but just wanted to be sure.
Where did find that gauge and where did you tap into the brake line?
Nice installation with the bleeder on top!
 

rustystud

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Rusty, I kinda thought that was your thinking, but just wanted to be sure.
Where did find that gauge and where did you tap into the brake line?
Nice installation with the bleeder on top!
I believe I got the gauge from Summit Racing. I used the old brake light switch port on the air-pac to feed the gauge. Works great.
 
Last edited:

rustystud

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Woodinville, Washington
Sorry for not being very active on this forum during the last several years, but noticed this thread today.
Having had bad experience with check valves and solenoid valves when using biofuels, I decided to go with motorized valves for my xm757 dual tank system. Here is one image showing the two 3-way valves, one for feed and one for return.
I'll look for more pictures and will post if of interest...
View attachment 696297
Where did you get the motorized valves from and how much where they ? I actually only have one solenoid switch on my system, rated for diesel fuel use. The rest are heavy duty one-way check valves for Marine diesel fuel systems.
 

cranetruck

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Where did you get the motorized valves from and how much where they ? I actually only have one solenoid switch on my system, rated for diesel fuel use. The rest are heavy duty one-way check valves for Marine diesel fuel systems.
The 3-way motorized valves I use were purchased on ebay 7-8 years ago. The are surplussed/used aircraft valves. I paid about $35/ea. Two required, one for supply and one for return.
Still working very well.
2017 0825 3-way motorized valve.jpg
 
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