+1 Very good explanation and advice. As always with painting, whether it be vehicles, houses, furniture..."PREPARATION" is the key. Most any of the top quality paints will look good and last well IF the proper prep work has been done.Naval Jelly, probably RO's rust reformer, and a number of other products that are probably based on phosphoric acid are good for penetrating pits where your abrasive can't reach and for holding off oxidation for a bit. If you don't mind the extra steps, it could be a good idea. I've just gotten done doing an M105 frame with RustMort and it held under tarps for over a week in some rain and humidity without flash rust appearing.
Except for the 'approved for bare metal' acrylic latex paints, you have to consider that you're applying water to the surface so it'll exacerbate any weaknesses in prep or priming. Exception - galvanized that actually wants latex instead of alkyd. It's also worth noting that primer is porous as opposed to finish paints that are not. That's why most primer instructions will caution against letting it exposed without a top coat for too long.
Bump... How is the Latex paint holding up? Thinking of painting my M101A2 in the next month and will probably be using Sherwin Williams. One of the SW shops is 2 miles down the road. I plan on using a HVLP spray gun and using floetrol. I am looking for a smoother finish than the CARC finish that is on the trailer now.
What about the porch and patio paint that someone mentioned?? Are there any advantages to Porch and Patio paint over regular exterior Latex house paint?
How many coats? Did you spray any type of clear coat? I'm trying to decide on using Behr Marquee because getting it off will be a lot harder than CARC, you can pretty much just sand CARC vs latex will start peeling when sanding.Forgive the late reply, but I painted my M416 with the ACE exterior latex over 8 years ago and it has held up fine in weather from Vermont to Florida.
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