FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

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glcaines

Well-known member
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Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
To dismantle the control tower on the backhoe you need to remove the pin holding the hydraulic cylinder in place. I was a little nervous with all of that steel hanging over me so I took my JD tractor, sans the bucket, and lowered the boom onto the SEE backhoe, locking it into the teeth of the shovel. I finally broke into the tower for the controls. What a mess! You have to remove all control arm knobs and additionally loosen the locking nuts on the stabilizer control arms so that they can be rotated inward so the tower cover can be removed. Everything is rusted and corroded. I'm going to have to completely dismantle everything, clean up the parts, paint them, grease everything and put it back together again. I intend to make the entire tower and innards look like new when I'm finished. However, first I have to confirm that I can get the stuck left stabilizer control working and that the rest of the hydraulic valving assembly is working and dependable. If not, I'll be looking for a replacement. The other five controls on top work well, although rusty. However, the foot pedal linkages and valving need significant help.
JD 4600 Stabilizing.JPG
Control Tower.JPG
 

Speedwoble

Active member
447
43
28
Location
New Holland, PA
..... first I have to confirm that I can get the stuck left stabilizer control working and that the rest of the hydraulic valving assembly is working and dependable. If not, I'll be looking for a replacement.......
I have a spare backhoe taking up space in my driveway. Not that I would like removing the valving, but I have parts. Also, the valves are much easier to work on if you remove the backhoe from the truck. How you would keep it upright while removing valves and depressurizing the cylinders, I am not sure. Especially with that little green runt! (I work for brand red, so the other colors are unacceptable)
 

The FLU farm

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,740
151
63
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
You have a button between the seats, and then the trailer brake on the column.

But what you need now is a hydraulic impact to run off of the SEE. I was so impressed with the 3/4" that I bought a 1" version, too.
It's supposedly good for 2,500 ft.-lbs.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,740
151
63
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
To dismantle the control tower on the backhoe you need to remove the pin holding the hydraulic cylinder in place. I was a little nervous with all of that steel hanging over me ...

I'd rather cut the cover, which I may do anyway to create an access opening to the rear, but either way, the locks should keep the backhoe from moving when the cylinder is removed.
 

glcaines

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,901
155
63
Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
Well, I finally completely removed the tower and baseplate. That was a real pain! I disconnected all of the control rods at the top, and left the axle mechanism in the tower. I'll remove it, clean up the axle and tower and repaint them. I then removed the baseplate, another major pain, complete with the pedals and arm. I'll remove the pedals and the control arm, clean up everything and paint everything. I'm actually thinking about painting the baseplate with black spray-on bed liner. I'm going to pressure wash the backhoe tomorrow, and try to clean up the valve assembly. It is pretty rusty - much more rust than you see in the photo. I'll then clean up and paint everything that goes under the tower and baseplate. When I reinstall the baseplate and tower I'm going to have someone help me. Removal was definitely a two-man job lifting and guiding the control rods. I may go ahead and remove the control rods and install them after the tower is in place. I got rained out with a thunderstorm today.
Base Plate Prior to Removal.JPGBase Plate Removed.JPGValve Assembly.JPG
 
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