FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

peakbagger

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I'm guilty of operating the pedals by hand, while standing on the ground, somewhat frequently.
With my knees and back I'm more likely to hurt/kill myself getting up on and off the machine, I think.

Besides, I run mine at 900-1,200 rpm for the most part, so nothing moves quickly. Still, it's not the safest thing to do, so your warning is well warranted, Speedwoble.
I actually am surprised that we do not hear about more SEE accidents. My guess is many buyers are new to medium size backhoes and backhoes have plenty of pinch points. I wonder if folks are just not using them and keeping them as garage "queens" or ones that did get hurt just do not talk about it.

I do have my own rule that the high throttle switch gets flipped off before I get in or out of the seat. I guess we need to install a pressure switch under the seat like a riding lawnmower so the throttle switch is locked out until the seat is loaded up. I am guilty of accidently depressing the left pedal when I am getting out of the seat. it means the boom is rotating away from me but I wish I could lock both of them easily. I have gotten a lot better with the boom lock of late after a few marathon digging sessions. I am unsure if air gets into somewhere when it sits and make it hard to latch or I am just getting better at it.
 
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The FLU farm

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When I first got mine, I must've stepped on the right pedal at least three times when climbing up - and that was before I learned to keep the rpms down. Either way, I'm somewhat surprised that I haven't killed or maimed myself with a SEE yet.

If I use the high idle switch, it's when I get bored waiting for the thing to raise up into travel position. Still haven't pulled those restrictors.

Probably shouldn't say this, but the last several times I've managed to lock the boom so elegantly that there's been no noise or shock loads. As if it was just a continuous move, without the cylinder going over center. Now I'll pay for that next time.
 

Another Ahab

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I thought I would post in this forum as it has the broadest visibility among FLU users. We recently had a fatality at a site because an operator standing next to the backhoe(conventional backhoe) moved one of the swing footpedals and was crushed between the tower and the chassis.
Lord that is awful. I am sorry for everybody connected.

Man, I am sorry.
 

Sgt Jiggins

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If I use the high idle switch, it's when I get bored waiting for the thing to raise up into travel position. Still haven't pulled those restrictors.
I hadn't read the manual to check for myself, but I certainly wondered if there were restrictors in place on the 'raise' circuit. Time to find out where they are and take them out.
 

Sgt Jiggins

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Lord that is awful. I am sorry for everybody connected.

Man, I am sorry.
Yea, I'm with you - accidents are just that - accidents. And they happen. But damn, none of these machines are toys.

Every time someone sees mine and even thinks to ask "can I try that" - NOPE. The machine is fully replaceable, the human is not.
 

glcaines

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Well, I joined the group. I just bought a 1987 FLU914 SEE, VIN: 1FG999993HM450521. Bumper markings are 157 MEB, 724E and right side: 950th 231M. It runs great, transmission shifts smoothly and easily, clutch seems perfect and has no major rust anywhere. The engine and truck chassis both have rebuilt tags from 2005. FLU914 At Home.JPG

Tires are in very good condition, although dated. The loader and backhoe work perfectly. It also came with a complete set of hydraulic tools, including chainsaw, drill and pavement breaker and all bits. The batteries are quite strong Hawker AGMs dated 2015. It also came with a clear title. I need to pressure wash the outside, although it is remarkably clean on the outside. The inside is different - it is quite filthy. I don't think the inside has been cleaned since it was in Kuwait and Iraq. I found paperwork in the cab showing much of the history of the SEE. I had to pry the engine cover loose as the gasket had deteriorated and glued the cover in place. Replacing the gasket will be one of my first tasks. The very first task is checking out the brakes, which are a little weak. I will put the SEE to good use as I live on 40 acres surrounded by National Forest. I have a road through the middle of the property with a ditch on one side that periodically needs cleaning out. The backhoe should work great.
 
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Hummerdave

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Tulsa,OK
Well, I joined the group. I just bought a 1987 FLU914 SEE, VIN: 1FG999993HM450521. Bumper markings are 157 MEB, 724E and right side: 950th 231M. It runs great, transmission shifts smoothly and easily, clutch seems perfect and has no major rust anywhere. The engine and truck chassis both have rebuilt tags from 2005.
Welcome and that's a good looking truck! This is right place to look for advice and info on the SEE.. I have been on since 2015 and have learned a lot here..
Dave
 

peakbagger

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Looks like it found a good home. When I was sectioning the AT there was some nice woods down there.

If they sit for any time, the brake rotors rust and the disc brakes do not work well. They usually clean up on their own with use. Do yourself a favor and remove the two spring loaded air purges on the air tanks and the one on the air piping that is set back a bit between the tanks and clean out whatever crud may be in there. Many functions of the SEE need air and you want to keep any crap from getting into the hard to get components.
 

Speedwoble

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Looks like it found a good home. When I was sectioning the AT there was some nice woods down there.

If they sit for any time, the brake rotors rust and the disc brakes do not work well. They usually clean up on their own with use. Do yourself a favor and remove the two spring loaded air purges on the air tanks and the one on the air piping that is set back a bit between the tanks and clean out whatever crud may be in there. Many functions of the SEE need air and you want to keep any crap from getting into the hard to get components.
Generals always fight the last war. In my case, I suggest flushing the brake system(Dot 5 silicone fluid) if there is any indication of it having sat without the hood, or if the brake fluid caps are cracked. The water does not mix in the silicone brake fluid and pools at the lowest spot. Particularly bad at rusting the master cylinder. If the cylinder has pits, it will give weak brakes. I also found water in the hard bends coming up into the front calipers. It is shaped like and functioned just like a drain trap.
 

glcaines

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I'm currently having a problem shutting the engine off. I have to stall it to stop it. In the Operators Manual, it states the following.
j. Stopping the Engine.
CAUTION
• Stopping engine immediately after vehicle has been under load could result in
overheating and accelerated wear.
• Do not turn off ignition switch or master disconnect switch before shutting off fuel,
or damage to charging system could result.

(1) Park vehicle and operate engine at low idle for 5 minutes.
(2) SEE only: Open front loader shutoff valves (page 2-86). Disengage travel locks (page 2-87) and
lower front loader to the ground surface.

When the manual says to shut off fuel prior to turning off ignition switch or master disconnect, what are they referring to? I'm assuming they are referring to the manual lever on the right side of the drivers leg?
 

Sgt Jiggins

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I'm assuming they are referring to the manual lever on the right side of the drivers leg?
Yes, that exactly. Stalling it by putting it in "16th gear" and dumping he clutch is an option in a pinch, but that lever should normally be utilized.

I wound up needing to manually exercise my throttle cable went I first got my SEE. Put a good bit of aerokroil down the cable jacket. It eventually loosened up and now works perfectly.

In fact, with maintenance and patience, I got everything on mine working. It may just take time.

Good luck!
 

glcaines

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Thanks for the help. On mine, I can push the handle forward until it stops at the small lip protruding from the plastic square. It idles in this position, and can't go any further forward. It freely and smoothly moves back and slowly increases the engine RPM. What actually shuts the engine down, this lever, the key switch or the master? The TMs are very vague on this point.
 

Hummerdave

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Tulsa,OK
Thanks for the help. On mine, I can push the handle forward until it stops at the small lip protruding from the plastic square. It idles in this position, and can't go any further forward. It freely and smoothly moves back and slowly increases the engine RPM. What actually shuts the engine down, this lever, the key switch or the master? The TMs are very vague on this point.
All you have to do is pull the lever over a wee bit and push it further down. This is the engine shutoff.. ( if it is adjusted correctly...)
Then shut down the electrcis...
Dave
 

Sgt Jiggins

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On mine, I can push the handle forward until it stops at the small lip protruding from the plastic square. It idles in this position, and can't go any further forward.
Not meaning to argue with Dave, just sharing what happened with mine, because it was the same as you're describing on yours: the handle was fully seated on that plastic catch/saddle and the engine didn't turn off. I pulled the engine cover and found that the cable was bending in a way that didn't allow it to fully engage the mechanism on the drivers' side of the block to cut the fuel. If you're having a hard time seeing it, you should be able to separate it quickly from the rest when you throttle up.

It's that exact cable that I wound up flooding with aerokroil to get it to let go.

As I said before, just be patient, work with the machine, do the maintenance (!), and it will hopefully come back to life for you n no time.
 

glcaines

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All you have to do is pull the lever over a wee bit and push it further down. This is the engine shutoff.. ( if it is adjusted correctly...)
Then shut down the electrcis...
Dave
I guess I need to check it out some more. I tried that and it won't go any further even when I pull it to the left to clear the plastic tang. It move quite freely back and forth to the rear of the plastic. I'll pull the engine cover off again and try to clean up and lubricate the mechanism. Thanks for the information.
 

peakbagger

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northern nh
The throttle linkage on the SEE is extremely complex as it has to deal with tipping the cab. the hand throttle and the remote throttle. It also does not help that the injection pump is on the opposite side of the engine. There are lots of places for the linkage to get out of adjustment. There is also a known issue that the the shaft connecting the accelerator pedal to the linkage inside the tunnel can bend throwing all the adjustments off. If the linkage is not adjusted correctly the hand throttle cannot travel enough to shut off the fuel which is how the engine is supposed to be shut down. The part that bends can be bought. There is lot of leverage in this assembly and bending the original part back in place is probably a short term fix. FYI, there is part of the linkage that goes through a tube in the engine head near the back, you definitely need to spray lithium grease or your favorite grease into this shaft and make sure its free, I looked at one SEE early on and that was binding and it was screwing up the entire throttle linkage and most likely contributing to bendng the throttle pedal linkage. Various reports over the years is that screwed up throttle linkage is very common issue with SEEs. I think the military mechanics just didnt spend the time to diagnose the entire linkage and used the bigger hammer approach.

One thing to be aware of something that is currently coming back to haunt me is that Mercedes uses ball swivel linkages in multiple spots. They are held in place by small metal clips that are just about impossible to reinstall given the limited access and a PITA to remove. The linkage will still work without the clip but may pop off when you least expect it. I am experiencing that right now on my hand throttle. The hand throttle sets the low idle speed so if the linkage pops off the engine stalls.It can be restarted but will stall everytime you let off the pedal. The clips are available from Mercedes and I think Expedition Imports has them. I am looking at taking part of the throttle assembly apart so that I can install that darn clip on the throttle linkage outside the truck and hope I can get it back together again. I expect it would be lot easier to do it with the cab tilted but that is a major effort I will avoid as long as possible.
 
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