• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

FLU419 Transmission/Transfer case odd question

Copout911

New member
20
12
3
Location
Pearisburg, Va
Ouch, i can see why you are worried. How sure are you it is the tranny vs the rest of the drivetrain? Hoping rear end or tube to it could be bad if you have in 2 wheel drive.


Can you engage the rear hydraulics?
Ouch, i can see why you are worried. How sure are you it is the tranny vs the rest of the drivetrain? Hoping rear end or tube to it could be bad if you have in 2 wheel drive.


Can you engage the rear hydraulics?
Well, not good news for the most part. It would appear the cascade shifter has left the chat. But while it will require transmission removal nothing seems busted yet. I will need to run it disengaged to remove the front loader and unfold the backhoe to get the cab off, presuming that the cab has to be completely removed (haven't checked) to get the trans out. Actually am guessing the "power package" will have to be removed?? As you have had it done or hopefully you did it, any pointers? I will be honest, I am not 100% convinced exactly what I'm going to do just yet. Still on the fence. One side this is a super clean unit with absolutely everything else working. Would be an absolute shame to sell it as parts or needing repair. Thoughts?

Thanks, Paul
 

brandan34

Member
44
37
18
Location
Southern Oregon
What is wrong with it? if it is just the shift fork on the lid easy fix, you seem to know your way around this stuff better than i so guessing it is more than that.

The books are good to look at, i printed it off and even glanced at it a few times. Probably should have read it a bit better but those parts did not make sense till afterwards. ;)


If the tranny needs to be pulled and everything else is good(aka the hood was not removed for a decade degrading wire connectors, hoses and letting water into things that should not have water) it really is not too bad with two people and something to lift with. I would not care to do it solo.

Remove the loader and backhoe. I had to use another tractor as my see would not run, so no tips first hand other that backhoe is heavy, i had a tractor on each side to lift it and towed the see out from under it. Second hand, get a jack for a trailer and make an adapter for the square tube on the loader. On the back hoe unhook as you see fit, when done chain the outriggers together so that it can not settle.


Remove hard hat with tractor.
Remove cab, fairly straight forward alternator needs moving in. Unhook everything in site. The driver side is a whole lot heaver than passager side, chain with that in mind. Also figure out the brake cable before you start, mine was cut as we got to a place where that was all that was left and no obvious way to unhook it. When lifting take care of the fuel return hose.

Nothing exciting on the engine other than the oil well on the bottom, the big thing on the bottom of the pan. Plan on a way to either leave the engine in the air or have a plan for blocks, i used old tires, as you do not want to just set it down. Having a floorjack under the tranny is likely a good idea as you can adjust some of the angles by raising and lowering it.

That gets you down to the tranny. Front axle needs pulling and moving forward to get acess to the bolts on the front torque tube. Note the two missing bolts on my tranny you will need to pull them otherwise as expected on the front. Remove the back driveline and anything else and it comes out. Check the boots on the tubes, now is your best chance to change them.

Having done it once i think i could pull a second tranny in a short day with a helper and tractor that does not settle.

Oh have complete metric and sae sets of tools. While there is a pattern to it, at first glance it is almost random what fitting is where. A decent set of metric bolts will help when putting back together.

Send me a pm if you want to call and chat some evening.


As for fix vs part, if i was you i would fix. you are starting off with a lot better tool and at least on the west coast looking at 20k+ for one that runs. over 30k from what you are describing if you find the right buyer.

I payed 6,650 for a rebuilt engine and less than 3k for a mystery box tranny that appears good. Could you get 10k for the rest of the parts, probably but it would take a bit. If you need tranny parts look me up with luck maybe what you need is one of the few not rusty ones in mine.

On a selfish note if you do part out i am looking for a few parts such as a passanger door, that i rather buy vs make.

Good luck and keep us in the loop.
 

Copout911

New member
20
12
3
Location
Pearisburg, Va
What is wrong with it? if it is just the shift fork on the lid easy fix, you seem to know your way around this stuff better than i so guessing it is more than that.

The books are good to look at, i printed it off and even glanced at it a few times. Probably should have read it a bit better but those parts did not make sense till afterwards. ;)


If the tranny needs to be pulled and everything else is good(aka the hood was not removed for a decade degrading wire connectors, hoses and letting water into things that should not have water) it really is not too bad with two people and something to lift with. I would not care to do it solo.

Remove the loader and backhoe. I had to use another tractor as my see would not run, so no tips first hand other that backhoe is heavy, i had a tractor on each side to lift it and towed the see out from under it. Second hand, get a jack for a trailer and make an adapter for the square tube on the loader. On the back hoe unhook as you see fit, when done chain the outriggers together so that it can not settle.


Remove hard hat with tractor.
Remove cab, fairly straight forward alternator needs moving in. Unhook everything in site. The driver side is a whole lot heaver than passager side, chain with that in mind. Also figure out the brake cable before you start, mine was cut as we got to a place where that was all that was left and no obvious way to unhook it. When lifting take care of the fuel return hose.

Nothing exciting on the engine other than the oil well on the bottom, the big thing on the bottom of the pan. Plan on a way to either leave the engine in the air or have a plan for blocks, i used old tires, as you do not want to just set it down. Having a floorjack under the tranny is likely a good idea as you can adjust some of the angles by raising and lowering it.

That gets you down to the tranny. Front axle needs pulling and moving forward to get acess to the bolts on the front torque tube. Note the two missing bolts on my tranny you will need to pull them otherwise as expected on the front. Remove the back driveline and anything else and it comes out. Check the boots on the tubes, now is your best chance to change them.

Having done it once i think i could pull a second tranny in a short day with a helper and tractor that does not settle.

Oh have complete metric and sae sets of tools. While there is a pattern to it, at first glance it is almost random what fitting is where. A decent set of metric bolts will help when putting back together.

Send me a pm if you want to call and chat some evening.


As for fix vs part, if i was you i would fix. you are starting off with a lot better tool and at least on the west coast looking at 20k+ for one that runs. over 30k from what you are describing if you find the right buyer.

I payed 6,650 for a rebuilt engine and less than 3k for a mystery box tranny that appears good. Could you get 10k for the rest of the parts, probably but it would take a bit. If you need tranny parts look me up with luck maybe what you need is one of the few not rusty ones in mine.

On a selfish note if you do part out i am looking for a few parts such as a passanger door, that i rather buy vs make.

Good luck and keep us in the loop.
Thank you for the advise as I will probably look to you for and other for motivation. So yes this is a very good example of the SEE, fully operational now after I fixed a few things and re sealed a couple of cylinders. The process isn't what scares me as I have some worldly knowledge how to carry it out. It was more to do with the time (location) and interest, but I have since decided to move forward and do it. I can use the engine to remove all the attachments so thats not a big deal and several steps closer than it sounds like you had. And yes, I will more than likely be able to use your offer for a couple parts. I guess i didn't explain to well but it seems like the gear bearing for one of the main gears (hi/Lo) has failed and will require trans removal to separate the cases to remove the shafts the gear (s) are on. Simple in terms of repair, just a lot of work getting to it, as with most things. There is no question this is not a parts machine as it has brand new tires and is fully functionable with all the tool box accessories (except for a silly hood key) even a fully stocked tool roll, grease (large and small) guns and standard issue tubes of grease. So in summary, I just need to motivate myself to get after it... Thank you again for your help and advise, I will post updates as they develop.

Paul
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks