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Front axel boot questions?

m16ty

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Zipper boots do suck compared to the solid ones but they are a quicker fix.

You can get by with a ripped boot for a little while if you don't go through deep mud or water.
 

Stretch44875

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I'm halfway through replacing the boots on my truck. Going with the solid silicone boots from Boyce. It did need tore down, grease was a nice runny mud. New inner seals. I even took the u-joints apart and repacked the needle bearings. First time that far into the M35, now I won't have to worry about it.

Couple of things I do. Use RTV where the boots seal to the knuckle and axle. Needed a extra set of hands to hold everything together while tightening the clamps. Also I use a rear outer wheel bearing seal on the front axle. Basically put it together just like a rear hub bearing set. 2-3 times now a little water has got around the boot and into the wheel bearings. I had a seal on one side, and not the other. The one with the seal had nice grease still in it, the other one had ruined bearings.

Now back to putting the truck together!
 

mcmullag

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I replaced my rf inner axle seal a couple weeks ago. You could definitely tell it was dripping axle oil and not grease, onto the wheel rim.
I ordered the inner and outer seals and boots from Memphis Equip. They sent me zipper boots, was not expecting that. We shall see how long the zipper boot lasts.
 

DieselBob

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Also I use a rear outer wheel bearing seal on the front axle. Basically put it together just like a rear hub bearing set. 2-3 times now a little water has got around the boot and into the wheel bearings. I had a seal on one side, and not the other. The one with the seal had nice grease still in it, the other one had ruined bearings.

Now back to putting the truck together!
Nice idea on the seal. I'll try that next time I pull the hubs to do the bearing.
 

paulfarber

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My replaced boot has been on 3 weeks and about 250 miles of driving. Has not exploded nor torn. Its the boot with the 'large zipper' that is supposed to be the worst of the two. Both boots that were on it were the smaller zipper.

DId it myself (no need for any additional help) and other than the boot the only parts I replaced were the screws and lock nuts (they were nylon lock nuts).

Of the people who posted only one had an actually broken part (a leaking seal). 'Wrong parts', 'about to break'... OK, sure.

I don't see anything wrong with zippered boots, and I see no value in breaking down a complex assembly just to 'see what it look like'. Seen plenty of CV joints... when they make noise, then I look at them. $50+ in seals 'just because' is nuts.
 

paulfarber

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I completely understand some people have the idea that 'if it ain't broke, fix it anyway' but its bad advice to pass along.

There is nothing in the knuckle that will 'almost be broke'. Seals leak, or they don't. CV joints are bad, or they are not.

If throwing $50-100 at a perfectly working axle makes you feel better, fine... but don't pass off your phobia of working parts as good advice.

There is to much to go wrong:

Contamination
Wrong lube
Failure to lube critical parts
Improper torque specs
Parts installed improperly.
etc etc etc
 

m16ty

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It's not so much the zipper on zipper boots that causes the problem. For some reason they aren't made of the same quality of rubber that the solid ones are. If you can find NOS military zipper boots they are much better than the aftermarket ones. I think if they ever came out with a silicone zipper boot it would be the best of both worlds (ease of installation and quality material).
 

Westech

CPL
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I dont know where you are getting 50-100 bucks from? what do you need to replace besides the boot and a axle flange paper gasket if everything else is good?
have you ever even taken the knuckle off before? And if you cant put it back together correctly I am betting you take all your stuff to a shop anyway so you would not even have to worry about any service because you are not able to do it as it.

Love Westy
 

Stretch44875

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I know my front axle won't be making noise as I'm driving 200-600 miles away. Gee, tear it apart and make everything good in my driveway, or do it in a wal-mart parking lot 300 miles from home.
 

jasonjc

Well-known member
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Gravette Ar.
OK boot tron. Water mud junk and who knows what else gets in to the front axle and "U" joint or the older ball type joint. Don't clean it, don't check it, don't remove the old conaminated grease. Leve the mud water and junk in there. Just slap on a new boot.[thumbzup][thumbzup]
 

ARYankee

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Benton, AR
Looks like I will be doing the boots on the camo coupe. I looked under there today and they need to be replaced. I'm going with the solid boots on this one. I went with the zippers on the other deuce about a year ago without any problems but for comparison sake(for myself), I will try the solids on this truck.
 

paulfarber

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Pulling the axle in/out risks tearing the inner oil seals lip, as well as introducing dirt. Who here has a torque wrench rated for the proper torquing of the nuts?

I think that the Army decided what most of us have.. the zipper boot is a good trade off of ease of replacement vs longevity. Even the most careful mechanic can have an oh-sh*t moment and damage something.

Everything you can possibly learn about the condition of the inner workings of the knuckle can be done without ripping the knuckle off.

If your heart is set on the solid boots then yeah, you are in for the work... but there are way to many trucks out there with zipper boots that are not having trouble.

And most of the ppl who are going with the solid boot are changing all the seals... not just the outer hub. That's where I am getting my $50-$100 price (if you do both sides)
 

Barrman

Well-known member
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I don't think either side is going to win the other over in this arguement. So why don't we stop trying. We each own our trucks and have to maintain them as we see fit.
 
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