• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Fuel Delivery System Overhaul

Iceman3005

Active member
933
97
28
Location
Holt, MI
I was running about 50% WMO for about 3 months, didn't have any damage but had a loss of power, the WMO doesn't have as many btu's available so not as much power as diesel, if running more than 10% (thats what I am running now) you will need a turbo, a naturally aspirated diesel can't burn the WMO very well. YES, FILTER.........FILTER..........FILTER your WMO!
 

donalloy1

New member
673
1
0
Location
Martinez Ca
donalloy1 - when you get your IP back, use your mirror as required and make sure the indexing stud on the pump rotor goes back into the mating slot in the engine gear. Then loosely attach the 3 nuts on the back side of the gear housing to hold the pump in place while you install the 3 bolts through the fill tube opening. Again, you must be carefull when you install these 3 internal bolts. The first hole should already be lined up from when the pump was removed. Use your mirrir to make sure, and cram a rag inside to keep from loosing a bolt down into the engine. Use the socket magnet if you have one. If you don't have one, go get one. It is THAT important. I used red LokTite on my bolts, which is not called for in the TM however I saw traces of red LokTite when I removed my bolts, so I used it when reinstalling. Get your buddy to rotate the crank pulley nut with the pull handle until the next bolt hole lines up in the mirror. Trust me, the mirror is invaluable in lining up the holes. Snug all 3 bolts up and then go around again with your torque wrench set at the correct setting (in the TM). After these 3 internal bolts are torqued properly, go back to those 3 nuts on the back side of the housing. Loosen these enough to permit the pump to rotate, and then align the timing marks. Factory timing is the exact alignment, however most folks advance the timing by the thickness of the line towards the driver's side. Once you get the marks the way you want them, tighten all three nuts wrench-tight (as tight as you can hand-tighten them with a boxed-end wrench).

Once you get the pump on and everything hooked up, open the air release knob on top of the fuel filter, hook up the battery and turn the engne over until fuel squirts out the drain port. I stuck a piece of small rubber hose on mine and pointed it down to the ground to keep from squirting fuel in the engine bay. Once the filter is primed, tighten the air release knob and crack open all injector nuts. Make sure your batteries are fully charged, and crank the engine for 15 seconds, wait a few minutes to allow the starter to cool, then crank another 15 seconds, etc. It will require about 4 of these cranking sessions to fill the system. When you see fuel leaking at each injector nut, everything is primed. Tighten all injector nuts and fire them horses up.

If I can offer any additional assistance, send me a PM.

Hope this helps.
Sharecropper, thanks so much for step by step. Very nice to get a the personal touch vs. bouncing around TM. DMLII sends respectfully
 

donalloy1

New member
673
1
0
Location
Martinez Ca
I was running about 50% WMO for about 3 months, didn't have any damage but had a loss of power, the WMO doesn't have as many btu's available so not as much power as diesel, if running more than 10% (thats what I am running now) you will need a turbo, a naturally aspirated diesel can't burn the WMO very well. YES, FILTER.........FILTER..........FILTER your WMO!
Received Loud and Clear Iceman! Seems like I am going full circle from original Pipe Dream!

Other than small %'s of WVO or WMO I would be wise to stay pretty much with pump diesel.

Thats OK, will have totally fresh IP and more when complete soon:)

Do not plan on adding Turbo. To many projects and not enough money! Maybe the Lottery will fix?

Back to work! DMLII sends....
 

donalloy1

New member
673
1
0
Location
Martinez Ca
Getting IP back tomorrow. Any hints for installation? Much information here already. Thank you very much. Need to p/u Battery Charger. Worried I will drain Batts while purging system of air. Wish me luck. Hope to have back on road by Monday. Fingers and Toes XXXX
 

Sharecropper

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,836
987
113
Location
Paris KY
Follow my recommended re-installation steps in Post #36 step-by-step and you will have no problems. If you do run into some uncertainty, pm me and I will respond as soon as possible.
 

Keith_J

Well-known member
3,657
1,319
113
Location
Schertz TX
The injection pump cannot compensate for the viscosity and as such, pumps far less motor oil per stroke as compared to diesel. This is why multifuel engines on the M35 had a fuel density compensator. This device was calibrated for gasoline to diesel, this same calibration may allow for use of diluted motor oil or heavier fuels.

Running anything but diesel in the CUCV is a gamble.
 

donalloy1

New member
673
1
0
Location
Martinez Ca
donalloy1 - when you get your IP back, use your mirror as required and make sure the indexing stud on the pump rotor goes back into the mating slot in the engine gear. Then loosely attach the 3 nuts on the back side of the gear housing to hold the pump in place while you install the 3 bolts through the fill tube opening. Again, you must be carefull when you install these 3 internal bolts. The first hole should already be lined up from when the pump was removed. Use your mirrir to make sure, and cram a rag inside to keep from loosing a bolt down into the engine. Use the socket magnet if you have one. If you don't have one, go get one. It is THAT important. I used red LokTite on my bolts, which is not called for in the TM however I saw traces of red LokTite when I removed my bolts, so I used it when reinstalling. Get your buddy to rotate the crank pulley nut with the pull handle until the next bolt hole lines up in the mirror. Trust me, the mirror is invaluable in lining up the holes. Snug all 3 bolts up and then go around again with your torque wrench set at the correct setting (in the TM). After these 3 internal bolts are torqued properly, go back to those 3 nuts on the back side of the housing. Loosen these enough to permit the pump to rotate, and then align the timing marks. Factory timing is the exact alignment, however most folks advance the timing by the thickness of the line towards the driver's side. Once you get the marks the way you want them, tighten all three nuts wrench-tight (as tight as you can hand-tighten them with a boxed-end wrench).

Once you get the pump on and everything hooked up, open the air release knob on top of the fuel filter, hook up the battery and turn the engne over until fuel squirts out the drain port. I stuck a piece of small rubber hose on mine and pointed it down to the ground to keep from squirting fuel in the engine bay. Once the filter is primed, tighten the air release knob and crack open all injector nuts. Make sure your batteries are fully charged, and crank the engine for 15 seconds, wait a few minutes to allow the starter to cool, then crank another 15 seconds, etc. It will require about 4 of these cranking sessions to fill the system. When you see fuel leaking at each injector nut, everything is primed. Tighten all injector nuts and fire them horses up.

If I can offer any additional assistance, send me a PM.

Hope this helps.
As ready as I will ever be! Should have all together in next couple days. Would finish today but 101 in shade. Probably 110+ in Shop.
:driver:
 

Attachments

Sharecropper

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,836
987
113
Location
Paris KY
Nice DeWalt stereo in the back-ground. Put on some Pink Floyd, drink a couple beers, and do it.
 

donalloy1

New member
673
1
0
Location
Martinez Ca
Nice DeWalt stereo in the back-ground. Put on some Pink Floyd, drink a couple beers, and do it.
Went with Puddle of Mudd vs. Pink Floyd!

All good here now. Much more involved than anticipated as usual. She is running like a TOP! Never cold started like that before. Looks like my slow methodical approach and staged process was the way to go for me.

IP replaced, all pliable fuel/vacuum lines dumped for new, clamps, gaskets on and on etc!

Great project. Time to move on to next on wish list?

SO many thanks to all that offered me technical support. Steel Soldiers ROCK!

Will post pictures/video later. Wanted to test today on commute before I tooted horn. Back to daily driver with M1009. Not a single drop of fluid on ground after driving. It can be done! DMLII sends respectfully....
 

donalloy1

New member
673
1
0
Location
Martinez Ca
Said I would publish a video of finished product. Hope you like it. A little Rush Working Man in background. How appropriate! Worked my ASS off on this project. Thanks again for all your technical input. Really was helpfull to know you all were in my corner when and if I needed it. DMLII sends respectfully
M1009 - 1986 New Injection Pump - YouTube
 

jooakes

New member
31
1
0
Location
cny
nice job looks and sounds great.

you've inspired me to do one of mine .
one ? when you reinstalled the ip lines to the pump what did you use to get them tight? just a open end wrench or do I need a crows foot ?
 

donalloy1

New member
673
1
0
Location
Martinez Ca
nice job looks and sounds great.

you've inspired me to do one of mine .
one ? when you reinstalled the ip lines to the pump what did you use to get them tight? just a open end wrench or do I need a crows foot ?
Flare type Crows Foot. It's a 9 point offset that gave me much more access to IP Lines. Not much room down there to get all fitiings Good and Tight. Was invaluable tool for finishing project. I purchased the Wright Tool version. I am sure Snap-on and others have them. Hope this helps. DMLII sends...
 

MarcusOReallyus

Well-known member
4,524
816
113
Location
Virginia
what did you use to get them tight? just a open end wrench or do I need a crows foot ?
Flare type Crows Foot. It's a 9 point offset that gave me much more access to IP Lines. Not much room down there to get all fitiings Good and Tight. .


*shudder*


Using an open end wrench on a flare fitting is a good way to practice your "kicking myself in the pants" skills, when you've rounded them off and now you're having to replace lines because you buggered up the nuts and had to cut them off!


Wanna ask me how I know? :mrgreen:
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks