Gama Goat owner err herder

patracy

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The goat is home!

I tossed two batteries in it and hit it with a little starting fluid. It started up, and promptly ran to redline. :shock: The engine stop cable is broken. But thankfully I thought ahead and had the air filter assembly removed. I plopped my palm on it and choked it. I thought maybe it was the linkage for the throttle and tried to make sure it was all free. I fired it up again, and it did the same thing. I could keep it idled down a little bit by restricting the air flow, but it seems the throttle is stuck inside the engine?

Oh yeah, I see the fuel filter o-ring is leaking, some sensor thing that fuel runs through, and the oil filter housing as well. Driptroit is right huh? :oops:
 

Gamagoat1

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Do you have any manuals?? I'd sure like to know what the redline is that you speak of...

Take the top off of the gov. housing and make sure the likkage is free where it goes into the head...
If that doesn't work remove the valve cover and check the movement there.
 
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tigger

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The goat is home!

I tossed two batteries in it and hit it with a little starting fluid. It started up, and promptly ran to redline. :shock: The engine stop cable is broken. But thankfully I thought ahead and had the air filter assembly removed. I plopped my palm on it and choked it. I thought maybe it was the linkage for the throttle and tried to make sure it was all free. I fired it up again, and it did the same thing. I could keep it idled down a little bit by restricting the air flow, but it seems the throttle is stuck inside the engine?

Oh yeah, I see the fuel filter o-ring is leaking, some sensor thing that fuel runs through, and the oil filter housing as well. Driptroit is right huh? :oops:
I have heard of choking a chicken , but a goat!
 

patracy

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Do you have any manuals?? I'd sure like to know what the redline is that you speak of...

Take the top off of the gov. housing and make sure the likkage is free where it goes into the head...
If that doesn't work remove the valve cover and check the movement there.
Redline = oh crap that ain't right :shock:
 

Joe Gamma

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Your Goats just giving you a big kiss and letting you know what lies ahead!!! I call mine "My fat bottomed girl" because she makes me earn every ride...and she well..has a fat bottom...

On a serious note the Govenor works on RPM's so you red lining may be the govenor. Do what ever Gammagoat1 says and when in doubt welll..do what he says...


I have all the manuals on CD ...may be a wise choice...

Good Luck.......I hade a high rev prob with my gamma and I just sprayed the **** out of the linkage with WD-40...cured it and I hope yours is as simple...

Joe C
 

patracy

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Flying by the seat of my pants, but I pulled apart the linkage and found nothing wrong. Took the lever section off the box and noticed it would only move on one side. So I moved to the valve cover. I studied the top end for a few minutes and figured out the "rack" I've heard of in the past. Pulled it out and found #2 and #3 injector slides worked fine. But #1 was stuck solid. I pulled it out and let it soak in some degreaser for a bit. Got it moving freely again and popped it back in. I still need to work out the throttle linkage as well to get it to idle. But it runs now with throttle control. I'm not sure exactly how the engine stop works on it. (Cable is snapped) But pulling the throttle lever up enough works to kill the engine. I was able to put it in low range and first gear and got it to move forwards and backwards a little. The back axle is locked up. I looked closer at the driveshaft and see that the joint broke between the tractor and carrier. I've got a set of tires lined up. I need to pick up a rear end for it I guess. It seems that the pinion will turn slightly and if I lift one wheel I can turn it slightly. But that might just be slack in the driveshaft and spider gear. There isn't a locker in the rear axle is there? I only lifted one side of the goat to see if the tire would move, if there's detroit or something in there, maybe the other drum is locked up causing the entire assembly to lock? Anyhow here's a pic and a video.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NSCbZ73kEL0[/media]
 

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Gamagoat1

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All three differentials have limited slip. That amounts to a clutch pack. They will turn independently but with some force. (About 70 lbs.)

Good job on the engine, just don't over rev it untill it gets warm and circulates some oil.

The smaller of the arms on the top of the gov. is the engine kill. It should stop the engine if you turn it towards the front or clockwise.
 

patracy

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Guess my concerns have been verified. I'm looking at a differential. aua

I jacked the rear completely off the ground. They only turn slightly back and forth.
 

Gamagoat1

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Before you give up, disconnect the rear driveshaft u joint at the diff. Then turn the wheels.
There is a carrier bearing at the front of the drive shat that is a piece of poop! I doesn't last and is probably locked up.
 

patracy

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Looks like someone started doing that already, the joint at the pinion is loose. However, the driveshaft is still in there, I guess I need to get in there with a prybar to see if I can get it to slide fowards out of the pinion yoke.
 

Gamagoat1

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It can be a real B---- getting that shaft to "slide" forward through that bearing. For now just get it loose on both ends. Remove the u joint at the rear and see if the wheels turn.

Then work on the carrier bearing. The bearing is housed in a rubber holder and that is bolted in a metal housing. Be real careful of the rubber, it does not exist as a replacement.
You can removr the bearing housing bolts (2), disconnect the u-joint between the carrier and tractor, and get a little movement to work on it but not much.
I've done several and the answer is time, soak wait soak etc.etc.
Then a hammer and punch to break it loose from the rust and slid it off the shaft.

When you are ready to reasemble I'll give you the number of the replacement bearing.
The original is a double sealed bearing that is not available. The replacement is only a single seal. (No swiming)
 

patracy

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It can be a real B---- getting that shaft to "slide" forward through that bearing. For now just get it loose on both ends. Remove the u joint at the rear and see if the wheels turn.

Then work on the carrier bearing. The bearing is housed in a rubber holder and that is bolted in a metal housing. Be real careful of the rubber, it does not exist as a replacement.
You can removr the bearing housing bolts (2), disconnect the u-joint between the carrier and tractor, and get a little movement to work on it but not much.
I've done several and the answer is time, soak wait soak etc.etc.
Then a hammer and punch to break it loose from the rust and slid it off the shaft.

When you are ready to reasemble I'll give you the number of the replacement bearing.
The original is a double sealed bearing that is not available. The replacement is only a single seal. (No swiming)
With the pinion joint already loose and the shaft loose (broken) from the tractor, I would have thought it would have overcame the "slip" in the driveshaft? Can that bearing lock up enough to cause what's happening?

I really wanted to get this thing back into shape so I could try to swim it a time or two. Do you have the bearing number or dimentions? I'd really like to find a double sealed bearing.
 

Gamagoat1

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Yes!! The shaft slides into the bearing. If the bearing is rusted, and it probably is, it will prevent the shaft from turning. Efectively locking up the rear.

I had several big bearing companies looking for a replacement for this bearing. The only thing found was a SKF bearing # 6208-2RSj.
The military stopped these from swiming by moving the exhaust outlet down below the tractor body instead of above the left rear wheel. They were barely amphibious. They had major problems when swim was attempted and no follow-up was carried out. In perfect conditions they would float and move. I've done it and it's not what everybody thinks.
 

patracy

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The first segment identifys the bearing dimentions. The second segment has the "options" of the bearing. I think that link I found will work.

If time allows tomorrow AM, I'll try to drop the driveshaft. I've got a lot going on this weekend though. Monday is wide open though!

By chance, do you recall the bolt size for the carrier bearing housing? So I only have to crawl under it once LOL.
 

Gamagoat1

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The first segment identifys the bearing dimentions. The second segment has the "options" of the bearing. I think that link I found will work.

If time allows tomorrow AM, I'll try to drop the driveshaft. I've got a lot going on this weekend though. Monday is wide open though!

By chance, do you recall the bolt size for the carrier bearing housing? So I only have to crawl under it once LOL.
Wish I could help ya. Georgia is just to far to go.

Merry Christmas!!
 

Joe Gamma

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I had my Goat shiped from TX. When the truck driver pulled it off his rig he said" That is one Bad Mother ****er" I don't often ask truck drivers for their opinion but when it rolls I am in their camp. He did say he thought there were rear end problems....he was right and 370 dollars later TNJMURRY took care of the prob and I had a rear Dif that worked like a charm...

Again good luck with your fat bottomed girl!!!!


Joe C
 
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