Gama Goat owner err herder

Gamagoat1

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One hose is brake and the other is air pressure from the airbox on the engine. This pressurizes the break drums. Do not mix these up. They are marked at the top as to which is which.

That devise shown in the picture, leaking, is the flame thrower solinoid
 
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popacom

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brake stuff

Anytime I find nos Goat stuff and I can I buy all available . If anyone needs them I got nos hub to frame line and nos m/c's.and lots more. PM me anytime.
popacom / Bill in Ky.2cents
 

patracy

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Ordered a NOS MC and a set of brake and air lines from popacom this AM. :beer:
 

patracy

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Ordered a set of oil and fuel filter for it today, as well as some Rotella T1 40wt oil.

I pulled the plug from the bottom point of the front steering box, more water. :(

I let it drip for a while and found mud in the bottom of it as well. I'll drag the hose out to it and flush it out tomorrow. I was thinking about drilling and tapping this plug for a zerk fitting. Then pumping marine grease into it. I was hoping the plug would have been a NPT thread, but it appears to be something one off.
 

patracy

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Replaced the fuel filters today. Since I knew the gasket was leaking on one of them, I pulled the mounts off to remove the O-ring seal. No wonder they were leaking! Both were rock hard, probably there since 1972 when it was made. One came out in one piece (primary), the other came out in about twenty (secondary). Seems to hold idle a little better now as well without me even doing anything to the idle screw yet. I bet it will run better once I drain/replace the old fuel.

I noticed there's a coolant line that has a broken fitting in the top front (err rear if you're looking at it in the goat) of the engine. Well I got the idea to use an easy out to try to back it out. I was rewarded with a "snap" and an automatic response of "oh @#$%". I'm going to try to enlist the assistance of my step father to help on that one. (Machinist by trade) Or I might just epoxy that over and use the port next to it. But other than purging air, what does this thing do?

I sprayed the steering box out as well. I also picked up a few tubes of marine grease. Does the drain plug at the bottom point of the steering box drain all of the box? I'm looking at the blow up of the box, and I don't see any seals between the internals of the box. I'd like to drill and tap that plug and install a zerk fitting I have to fill the entire thing with marine grease.
 

patracy

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Got the zerk installed into the drain plug and pumped a bunch of marine grease into the steering box. Also greased up every zerk I could find under the front end and middle axle. Looks like the u-joints don't have zerks in them put ports to remove and pump in with a needle. I'll get that done when I do the brake hoses. Filled the front end with gear oil and got the rear fill plug loose. The gear old was cold and flowed like molasses. So I brought in the two gallons I've got into the house to warm them overnight. I'll fill up the middle axle tomorrow. It will be next week before the brake stuff comes in.
 

Militoy

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The Goat was designed for using DOT 3 (glycol based HB fluid). The changeover to silicone (BSF) took place in 1980-81, so if you want to use DOT 3, it should not be a problem.
I have always used DOT 3 in my deuce.
This struck me as kind of odd - since I had never heard of any Goat running ester-glycol (DOT-3) brake fluid - since it sucks water into the system, and can cause corrosion. I don't consider myself any kind of expert on Goat history though - especially since my oldest parts manual listing brake fluid is from '82. I E-mailed and then had a long phone conversation with Bill Janowski (one of the original Gama Goat designers) today though, and Bill confirms that the 1964 and 1970 manuals specified HB brake fluid IAW VV-B-680. That would be DOT-3 fluid - so cranetruck got it right. The 1970 manual also specifies HBA fluid (DOT-5) for low-temperature use, when condensation would be a problem. All the later manuals specify DOT-5 fluid. Since they don't mix - I would still advise against the use of DOT-3, unless you are replacing or flushing the entire brake system, and the cost of the fluid is of extreme concern. This later pamphlet spells out how to tell the difference between the fluids that may be already in your system:
http://photos.imageevent.com/wharris19/manuals/dot3or5/586-02-03.pdf
 

patracy

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Since there's not the first section of hose left on this thing and since I'll be replacing the MC, I guess I'll go with DOT3 since the brake system will be basically new. (And a lot cheaper to bleed thing thing out!)

Is there any harm in me relocating that top most coolant resv. hose or removing it completely? Since that plug is broken and an ez-out is stuck in it, it'd be a lot easier to just simply zap it shut with the welder and using that other port or remove it completely. (Drilling an ez-out isn't something I wanna try...)

Also since the filter swap and gasket change, it starts a lot easier. (No starting fluid) We'll see tomorrow after a cold long night.
 

Militoy

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...Is there any harm in me relocating that top most coolant resv. hose or removing it completely? Since that plug is broken and an ez-out is stuck in it, it'd be a lot easier to just simply zap it shut with the welder and using that other port or remove it completely. (Drilling an ez-out isn't something I wanna try...)

...
The 53 series Detroit engine is a wet-sleeve type, which tends to naturally cause cavitation and the buildup of coolant vapor in the cooling system. Without the top surge tank hose, or with the surge tank located in a different position, you will gradually build up gas in the top portion of the radiator - preventing it from cooling properly. The buildup of vapor and gas in the system can damage the cylinder sleeves by cavitation; and relocating the surge tank can also prevent the coolant pump from circulating coolant effectively. BTW - the use of only the appropriate coolant in a wet-sleeve 2-stroke engine is also critical, if you want the engine to survive.
 

patracy

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There's already a port in the top of the radiator to vent there. As well as another path from the rear of the head. Drilling this easy out isn't going to be fun...
 

patracy

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Item 2 is fine, it's the item 17 and 18 that are the issue, they plumb into the side of the tank as well.
 

patracy

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Oh and I know about SCA, I've bought it for my dodge as well.

On a side note, the front and middle diffs are filled back up. :beer:
 

patracy

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I cheated, I just drilled and tapped a 1/8npt port next to it. I'll buzz the "plug" to seal it off.

Now for the radiator. It's in sad shape. A few bullet holes in the top and some flues that are cut.
 

cranetruck

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..... All the later manuals specify DOT-5 fluid. Since they don't mix - I would still advise against the use of DOT-3, unless you are replacing or flushing the entire brake system, and the cost of the fluid is of extreme concern. This later pamphlet spells out how to tell the difference between the fluids that may be already in your system:
http://photos.imageevent.com/wharris19/manuals/dot3or5/586-02-03.pdf
A problem, IMHO, with silicone based fluid is that it in fact doesn't absorb water. Any water (from condensation or whatever) will settle in low areas and can freeze, causing ice plugs.
I have mixed silicone and glycol fluids in a jar and they will simply form layers, so generally, you still have a hydraulic fluid and no harm done. It may even be a good thing to have some glycol type in the system regardless to handle any water...keep it from freezing. Like I said, it's just my opinion and under most normal conditions, DOT3 works just fine.
 

doghead

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When looking at DOT 5 Manufacturers websites, I have found that none of them recommend mixing dot5 with dot3. They actually warn you NOT to.



[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]DOT5[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1] DOT5 brake fluid is also known as "silicone" brake fluid.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1] Advantages:[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1] DOT5 doesn't eat paint.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1] DOT5 does not absorb water and may be useful where water absorption is a problem.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1] DOT5 is compatible with all rubber formulations. (See more on this under disadvantages, below.)[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1] Disadvantages:[/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1] DOT5 does NOT mix with DOT3, DOT4 or DOT5.1. Most reported problems with DOT5 are probably due to some[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1] degree of mixing with other fluid types. The best way to convert to DOT5 is to totally rebuild the hydraulic[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1] system.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1] Reports of DOT5 causing premature failure of rubber brake parts were more common with early DOT5[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1] formulations. This is thought to be due to improper addition of swelling agents and has been fixed in recent[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1] formulations.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1] Since DOT5 does not absorb water, any moisture in the hydraulic system will "puddle" in one place. This can[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1] cause localized corrosion in the hydraulics.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1] Careful bleeding is required to get all of the air out of the system. Small bubbles can form in the fluid that will form[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1] large bubbles over time. It may be necessary to do a series of bleeds.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1] DOT5 is slightly compressible (giving a very slightly soft pedal), and has a lower boiling point than DOT4.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1] DOT5 is about twice as expensive as DOT4 fluid. It is also difficult to find, generally only available at selected[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1] auto parts stores.[/SIZE][/FONT]
 
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patracy

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Just an update, the radiator shop called be back with a quote of WAY too much to repair the radiator. Luckily popacom is going to square me away on that. I went ahead and ordered 6 take off tires as well for it. Not much else going on at the moment.
 

frenchman

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hello
if you need some break wheel cylinder for you goat you can get some at this place central jersey motor parts call jack732 4463738 they are very cheap and usa made i think i paid 100dollars for 6plus shipping
frenchman
p.s do it right the 1st time you wont be sorry and you will have good stoping power and make sure the breake shoe never been sock with brake fluid
 

patracy

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If I have wheel cyl issues, I'll order them on my own. We're a vendor for MV parts now. I just got the parts from popacom since they were NOS and a great deal.
 
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