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gen 2 light and volt meter not working
- Thread starter fallen
- Start date
DriverSideImpact1008
Member
I have the same problem. I just tore into the dash today to do some testing. See if I can find a problem.
DriverSideImpact1008
Member
Sounds like a good opportunity to get my doghead relay mod taken care of.
idM1028
New member
There's actually two. One is the GEN2 relay, the other is the voltmeter relay. I can't remember the exact part #, but doesn't seem like they're hard to find. Those two are the same part number-wise. Jumpering the GEN2 relay (check the wiring diagram for the hot/ground wires) can tell you whether the problem is the light bulb, a ground or something else. If you get the light to come on, it's getting power, the bulb is good, and the ground is good. There's also a couple of resistors on the back of the voltmeter that have been known to go bad and screw stuff up. Get a voltmeter and test them. The resistance should be 300 ohms IIRC. I'd also check the troubleshooting section of the TM.
combatmech
Active member
There is a 300 ohm resistor that is easy to change. Gen issues are pretty common around here. Here is a search result that might helpSteel Soldiers::Military Vehicles Supersite - Search Results
combatmech
Active member
Or you can get two 150 ohm resistors and install them on the back of your voltmeter where the existing 300 ohm resistor is .... I've fixed two that way.
camp9
Member
Thanks for the post and answers. I have a 1009 that the kids were taking to the lock in at church last night. I was getting the dash lights replaced and the voltmeter touched the metal on the dash before I got the wires disconnected and seen a little spark. When I got everything back together the voltmeter wasn't working. The kids just got back so now I'll go check that fuse. Thanks for the helpful post, it gives me a direction.
combatmech
Active member
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/18236-voltmeter-not-working-all-never-moves.html Post #6.
Here is how I have fixed two voltmeters in the past. The long white and pink rectangle is the stock 300 ohm resistor.
Radioshack 150 ohm resistors 5 pack 1.25
You can solder them together or just wrap the wire around each of the posts.
Here is how I have fixed two voltmeters in the past. The long white and pink rectangle is the stock 300 ohm resistor.
Radioshack 150 ohm resistors 5 pack 1.25
You can solder them together or just wrap the wire around each of the posts.
I've got the same voltmeter problem with a different twist to it. Everything was running great under the hold and on the dash all the gauges were working as should be. I replaced the belts on the engine a couple months ago and recently the belt on alternator #1 (right hand side near batteries) started to squeal when first starting engine. I checked alternator by pushing down on the fins with my index finger and the pulley moved. So I tightened the tension to match the other alternator belt. I started the engine and no more squeal but noticed voltage meter was inoperative (meter arm all the way down to the left side). When I tightened the belt I made sure the small breaker bar I used did not come in contact with any wiring. Is this just a coincidence? I've already checked the fuse and it looked good but replaced with a new fuse to no avail. Still inop.
The passenger side alternator is GEN2. GEN1 is the driver side. Are you saying you turned the fan or moved the alternator?
Check the fusible links at the diamond shaped 12v terminal block next to the glowplug relay. I bet you will find one that is burnt.
Check the fusible links at the diamond shaped 12v terminal block next to the glowplug relay. I bet you will find one that is burnt.
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kentuckycucv
Member
Thank you. An hour with the volt meter and taking apart the dash. This was the simple fix.