Gen Set, TM 5-5260, Stock No. 6115-376-7003 from 1953.

[R3Fab]

I work for a building contractor/hoarder who has a lot of ex-Mil. equipment laying about.
Someone might be able to talk him out of the "Duece and a half"? tractor he is letting sit, it needs rescue.
I will try to get a pic, typical "Ran when parked" like so much of what he has.

Among the hoard he has around thirty gen-sets, seriously!
From small 3K-10K like this, and all the way to OMG what city is he going to power with that!, blown V-12 diesel powered monsters.

Mostly they sit around unused, weathering in the sun and snow year after year.
Last week he suddenly decided I should get this one running again.
Tried using the numbers above to locate a manual and parts but no luck.
Seems 1953 pre-dates the 'Net.

At a glance I could see this was going to be a chore as ALL rubber parts were petrified.
Naturally correct formed coolant hoses are not available, so I bought some I could cut the portion I needed from.
This 1XB3FR Hercules engine uses magneto ignition with shielded plugs and wires, new plugs $21.00 each!
The only relatively simple parts were the fan belts.
After pulling the starter and treating it to some penetrating oil at the Bendix plus filling the oil cups the starter functions again.
Added an extra fuel filter in addition to the new one in the AC pump sediment bowl, since I knew there would be at least some rust in the fuel tank.

Decided when I started that I would not spend the money for new batteries until I knew it ran, so used a pair I have on hand.
Today I finally got it started, momentarily.
As soon as it started the fuel tank that had been holding fuel just fine sprang a pretty nasty leak, directly onto a voltage regulator and the Generator!
Glad the OFF switch works fine.

Drained the tank and will remove it for repair before finding the next issue.
Not an electrician so I'm only working on the engine side of this set.

Really would like to find a parts source as the leaky fuel pump needs a rebuild kit.
Do want to retain the manual prime feature.
Once this one is finished I get to work on its twin, but starting from even less complete.

I can take pics if anyone is interested.

 

[Scoobyshep]

Would love to see some pics. If you need some electrical help feel free to PM

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[Guyfang]

Yes, please take pictures. lots!

 

[R3Fab]

Needed a half-inch more space to remove the fuel tank for a proper repair.
To do that the cabinet has to be removed.
For THAT, the screws at the lower edge have to come out, which may have been simple about fifty years ago, prior to the rust!
Owner insisted on doing a truly Okie repair to the fuel tank, self-tapping screw into the rust-hole.
I do not want to be near this when it is running as I expect another fuel leak to develop before long.
Right above a large generator and its armature brushes.

So for the moment the engine runs well, but there is no electric output.

Pics if I have sized them correctly.



And here is the other, in a bit worse condition but I am to get it running too.



He is a REAL hoarder, a few more of his many Gen sets.
I have no idea how many years these have been sitting out.
Unfortunate, that I am not a Diesel mechanic or electrician.

 

[Guyfang]

You cant take the top off?

The control panel is somewhat like some others I have operated/worked on.

Can you take a picture of the fuel pumps?

In the last picture, it looks like at least 3 MEP-005A's The set without the container is to far away to see what it is.

 

[R3Fab]

You cant take the top off?

The control panel is somewhat like some others I have operated/worked on.

Can you take a picture of the fuel pumps?

In the last picture, it looks like at least 3 MEP-005A's The set without the container is to far away to see what it is.

Got the fuel pump back on and no longer leaking.
Cannot readily take just the top off the cabinet as the screws are just as rusted and much harder to reach.
The real fix would be to chisel or grind the heads off the lower screws and replace the caged nuts.
Owner only cares about today, proper repair and later repairs being simpler does not matter to him.

Major issue of the moment is that the set produces no measurable AC.
I read somewhere that if the set has sat a long time it may be necessary to put a big magnet on the case while it is running, to reinitialize the field? Pretty certain this one has sat for over ten years.
Set pre-dates the 'net, so I've had no luck finding any manuals beyond what is on the doors.
I've been doing automotive for about fifty years but know very little about Gen. Sets beyond trying not to touch any live circuits.

 

[Scoobyshep]

Need to see if you are getting voltage to the field windings. A lot of them do a self flash. If they dont have that ability and are relying on the built up magnetism of the rotor then a flash may be needed to start the reaction.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[Guyfang]

Many old gen sets, had a switch in them for manual field flash. Where are you measuring for output?

 

[R3Fab]

I've got nothing showing on the meters, or at the 110v receptacles.
Cannot light a 110v bulb.
There are several switches that I am unsure of their purpose.
One is Manual - Automatic, I expect it to be for voltage regulation?
Tried switching it but never saw that it made any difference.
The owner used the set regularly, over a decade ago, he could not get power from it either.
There is a large internal block that sets the operating range, A - D, currently set to "A" for 110v.
My main goal is to get this set to the point that it leaves my workshop, the self-tapping screw fuel tank repair is just stupid long term and a fire hazard of the first order.
Hopefully the current China-Virus panic will end soon so that I may find a better work situation.

I do not know the measure points for field coils and such, trying not to hurt myself here.
If the owner would allow me the time I would clean every wire attachment I could reach as a starting point.
I know enough about electricity to know that good connections and grounds are critical to function.

 

[Scoobyshep]

Simple answer without schematics or diagrams is to follow the wiring from the head. Should have anywhere from 3 to 12 large leads and 2 small leads. Small should be the field.

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[R3Fab]

I will try to get a better pic of the schematic.
I have not found it particularly helpful as I am unfamiliar with the symbols/devices and their functions.
Set owner has alienated the local electricians as he cheaps out on them too often, a wealthy miser.
Now he wants to get ALL of his many Gen Sets into working order.
Not sure how that is to happen when several have no power distribution panels.
I can make most of the engines run but that is probably all.

 

[Guyfang]

Look on the schematic. In the legend it has all the components listed. Switches, naturally all start with the letter "S". Often, S1 is the start switch, or Master Switch. Look for Manual Field Flash. Normally its located inside the control cubicle. Some close ups of the control panel and the inside of the control cube would maybe help.

 

[R3Fab]

Took a pic of the schematic and blew it up on my screen.
Looks like there may be some capacitors called out on the upper left?
If so I expect they are very, very, dead from inactivity and heat/cold for several years.

Click the thumbnail for a larger image.



I may be able to PM or email a much larger image.

 

[kloppk]

Not sure if you looked there or not yet but there is a forum called Smokestak that's devoted to antique engines, generators and the like. Someone on there had a model almost identical to your set.

 

[Guyfang]

This is not for your set, but very close. I think you may find that the controls at least are about the same. There is a manual field flash button. So check out the control panel in the TM and what you have in front of you. This is all I could find after 4 hours in the net.

 

[R3Fab]

Four hours, too long!
I really do appreciate the pointers.

 

[Guyfang]

The hunt! That's what is the best part for me. And you can discover a lots of other stuff.

Radio Nerds is a good place to find old TM's.

 

[R3Fab]

Well, I've searched very carefully and am still unable to find a Manual Field Flash button anywhere.
I did confirm that there are several small capacitors used in the system.
Correct oil filter is to arrive in the morning, once I finish the oil change and clamp the fuel tank back in place I think I will wash my hands of this.
The engine will start and run, which is all I originally set out to do. It was "Assumed" the generator functioned, it "Ran when parked".
Supposed to do the same job for it's twin, wonder if that one will make AC power?
This is the major irritation of working for this hoarder, never any documentation and ALL of his "Minor" projects cascade into major due to lack of prior care and disuse.

 

[R3Fab]

Removed the lower access panel and the end-cap from the generator.
According to a local guy who looked at it yesterday it has an alternator to power the field.
Despite having used compressed air to blow out dust there was still a lot of dirt inside the cover.
So I will be removing more covers to examine the brushes and contacts.

 

[R3Fab]

Some detail pics as asked for.




Fuel pump.