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Getting my M1009 ready for road trips!

Streamline

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Welcome to my 1 month project to get ready for spring traveling in February!

Well after months of looking for a truck to buy for road trips with my business I have decided to use my M1009! Its been a great truck these past two years we have had it since purchase from Gunnermac! Now its time for a little face lift! More inside than out. Im fixing to make LMC smile!

First on the list was to fix my leaking Mechanical Fuel pump or Lift pump that Recovery4x4, ThunderCracker, and a few other guys at this years GA Rally helped me find! After seeing how tight of a space we had to remove the lift pump I realized some space would be nice so then I decided to kill two birds with one wrench! I just so happen to have just purchased a inside passenger side fender from Gimpy at the rally because mine had been eaten up by battery acid! So off came fender batteries and all!

We replaced the pump and inner fender. Because of time issues I ran into that day because I need to drive the truck the next day Im having to wait on cleaning and repainting battery brackets and I will be adding two Fat50 ammo cans to hold batteries in!

We also found some rust through spots just behind the seat! Also the passenger seat one corner was going through floor! All that has now been fixed!

Next step is re-fab on back tail gate because of cracking at both ends of glass! Any Suggestions on best way to fix or just replace tailgate?
Also will be finishing up interior flooring then coating it the adding sound definer padding and the a 4 PVC Floor Mat from front to back!
More to come.........
 

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Recovry4x4

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I brought lots of zip ties to the rally. They seem to have disappeared. Looking good Bobby.
 

hoplite666

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I've got the same cracks on my tailgate. I'm just gonna clean the area up and weld them then grind it down and seal/paint. Planning on pulling off the glass access panels and cleaning up any rust that may be on the inside too. Seal/paint it all up.
 

cucvrus

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This is a trick I used to repair the cracked tailgates. It seems to work. I have had it on a couple gates for 5+ years. I can get the measurements. But you are at your gate working. I shear a strip of 12 gauge galvaneal steel. Or stainless or sheet steel. A thin strip to cover the flat on top or the gate. outer end to outer end. Cut and grind it to fit where the gate fits to the roof. Then grind the gate every 3 inches on the sides that the strip fit on top of the gate. Tack weld the strip to the top of the gate. Get it to fit nice with the grinder and clamps. Then go along and stitch weld it with short 1" welds. grind it with a small grinder and get the rough edges off. I then use my 8" sander with 80 grit and get it nice and smooth. Don't grind thru and be careful on the edges. You are not trying to grind you welds off. Just clean them up and make them look nice. Prime the area. Then get some good seam sealer and seal the entire strip edges. Let it dry another coat of primer and paint to match. I do not have pictures of the process. but I can post some pictures of the finished product. This is how I done it and have had excellent results. Do what you want and improve the process if you wish. Sorry no pictures. I can't work with a camera in my hand. Good Luck with your project. Happy Holidays.
 

cucvrus

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It is Galvanealed not the same as galvanized. Similar but not as toxic. It is very durable material. We make rear door frames for trucks out of it. I never seen it rust. It tarnishes but not rust. Maybe after a long time but 12 gauge is thick but still workable. Makes nice patches. Your avatar has my grand daughter telling my wife I am on a girly site. Thanks.
 

Streamline

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Well after careful consideration and looking into the patchwork that "cucvrus" spoke about my self and my father along with our machine shop owner where im doing the work at it was decided today that the tail gate is too far gone because of a few rusty spots we found near the hinges as well so I will be ordering a new re-pop tail gate along with all my other parts this week from LMC!

My order is just over 1100.00 with LMC is there a better place to order parts and save or is this my best bet?
 

cucvrus

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Wow. I would rebuilt the entire tailgate. I guess I have more patience and thrift for saving things. The knock off gate may look pretty but it is pin spot welded and with any use they do not hold up. Rust is a pain to fix. But a dented gate can be had and fixed pretty cheap. My opinion. I know for a fact the after market truck gates are terrible and fall apart under light use. With the welder and the flat steel you start welding on the gate and fixing a few things it can start to shape up quickly and become a survivor. Happy Holidays. Good Luck. $1100. WOW.
 

Streamline

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Comer, Ga.
We thought that starting with a re-pop would give us a clean slate but maybe not I did not realize the re-pop from LMC was that cheep I guess for $200 I should have know it was! Any body else had experience with re-pop tailgates? Did your come from LMC?

The $1100.00 is for my complete list from LMC! Free shipping over $1000.00
Tailgate.
Headlight and all lights upgrade.
EVA Sound & Heat shield for front and back floor
Molded Heavy duty PVC 4pc floor mat
Side Step Bars
Window and door seals
Weather stripping for removable top
Hood Pins set
Led upgrade lights for instrument pannel
Inside threshold trim

More to do thats not from LMC!
 

Streamline

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
544
107
43
Location
Comer, Ga.
This is a trick I used to repair the cracked tailgates. It seems to work. I have had it on a couple gates for 5+ years. I can get the measurements. But you are at your gate working. I shear a strip of 12 gauge galvaneal steel. Or stainless or sheet steel. A thin strip to cover the flat on top or the gate. outer end to outer end. Cut and grind it to fit where the gate fits to the roof. Then grind the gate every 3 inches on the sides that the strip fit on top of the gate. Tack weld the strip to the top of the gate. Get it to fit nice with the grinder and clamps. Then go along and stitch weld it with short 1" welds. grind it with a small grinder and get the rough edges off. I then use my 8" sander with 80 grit and get it nice and smooth. Don't grind thru and be careful on the edges. You are not trying to grind you welds off. Just clean them up and make them look nice. Prime the area. Then get some good seam sealer and seal the entire strip edges. Let it dry another coat of primer and paint to match. I do not have pictures of the process. but I can post some pictures of the finished product. This is how I done it and have had excellent results. Do what you want and improve the process if you wish. Sorry no pictures. I can't work with a camera in my hand. Good Luck with your project. Happy Holidays.
Any chance of some pictures of what it looks like now?
 

cucvrus

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Jonestown Pennsylvania
Opinion. I would opt for a Line X sprayed in floor lining. That rubber mat makes a happy home for Mr rust. And he never sleeps and is always hungry. His entire family loves eating M1009's for everyday all 3 meals. they get hungrier and hungrier. Till there is nothing left to eat and then they just go somewhere else to eat. And they have very poor table manners. On a quiet night you can hear them eating. Merry Christmas. Do as you wish. I am just offering an opinion. The Line X seals and stops the rust. Not completely but it acts as a sound deadner and a floormat all in one. it protects also. Tough stuff.
 

Streamline

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Comer, Ga.
I purchased a Kenwood Radio today at a great price to install in the truck! Has anyone had any unforeseen issues doing this I may need to know about? I know I have to relocate two toggle switches and run new power and remote wire as well as speaker wires and cut away part of the opening to fit this new style radio.

Thanks in advance!
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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9,676
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Any chance of some pictures of what it looks like now?
I can do that tomorrow. I have some CUCV work to do in the garage and outside CUCV work if the rain stops. I will post some pictures of my progress on a few projects.
 

Streamline

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
544
107
43
Location
Comer, Ga.
Opinion. I would opt for a Line X sprayed in floor lining. That rubber mat makes a happy home for Mr rust. And he never sleeps and is always hungry. His entire family loves eating M1009's for everyday all 3 meals. they get hungrier and hungrier. Till there is nothing left to eat and then they just go somewhere else to eat. And they have very poor table manners. On a quiet night you can hear them eating. Merry Christmas. Do as you wish. I am just offering an opinion. The Line X seals and stops the rust. Not completely but it acts as a sound deadner and a floormat all in one. it protects also. Tough stuff.
Actually that is our next step after a few more small patches in the floor! We were going to seal the entire bed front to back possibly the roof and walls as well to help with sound! We looked at Line X as well as another rubbery coating I like to use on my steel tripods I build! Im also going to try and seal some of the problem areas from underneath as well after giving her a steam bath! I agree that this part is very important!
 
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