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Guess I'm looking at head gaskets

sandcobra164

Well-known member
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they hate lugging in 5th, they like to be run at normal operating temp, and mostly above 2K on the tach. Many on here stress that multi's want to be babied but that's just not their nature. I've read the threads about blowing holes in the block from 1 or 2 of about a million trucks. I run mine at 2650 rpm's in 5th all the time for long stretches at a time, I used to baby it and it led to hard starting, rough idling, alot of snot out of the slobber tube and general irritability on the trucks part. I now run it like the Army still owns it, and he loves it.
 

JOEDEUCE

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Some say run the piss out of it right off the bat "with a load" and others say to wait 500 miles before hammering down on the throttle with the truck loaded... I think your situation with the blowby will improve as it gets some more runtime....
 

hilber

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they hate lugging in 5th, they like to be run at normal operating temp, and mostly above 2K on the tach. Many on here stress that multi's want to be babied but that's just not their nature. I've read the threads about blowing holes in the block from 1 or 2 of about a million trucks. I run mine at 2650 rpm's in 5th all the time for long stretches at a time, I used to baby it and it led to hard starting, rough idling, alot of snot out of the slobber tube and general irritability on the trucks part. I now run it like the Army still owns it, and he loves it.
You sound like me or vice versa. I don't baby mine, now I don't abuse it but baby it. NO.
 

WillWagner

The Person You Were Warned About As A Child
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Just remember, you can't see blow-by. Blow-by is a measurement of the CC pressure. It is normal to see vapor coming out the tube. If there were none, you'd have issues. The amount of vapor out the tube is directly related to the oil and coolant temps, the hotter the fluids, the more vapor you'll see. Don't get hung up on what you are seeing, if you are curious, measure it.
 

TsgtB

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Question... what is the current status of this engine? (respectfully)

I am having very similar conditions, oil cooler and a head has been replaced, and still loosing coolant to oil pan...
Debating investing the time/money to this engine vs engine swap.
 

patracy

Administrator
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Buchanan, GA
Question... what is the current status of this engine? (respectfully)

I am having very similar conditions, oil cooler and a head has been replaced, and still loosing coolant to oil pan...
Debating investing the time/money to this engine vs engine swap.
This was from a few years back. I ended up locating the crack on one of the cyl jackets. Repaired all of it, put a cyl kit in it, drove it for a while. Ended up cracking a head or something else. It's sitting in my junk pile now.
 

skinnyR1

Member
423
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Location
Burlington CT
Question... what is the current status of this engine? (respectfully)

I am having very similar conditions, oil cooler and a head has been replaced, and still loosing coolant to oil pan...
Debating investing the time/money to this engine vs engine swap.
Now what is going on? I thought you were good to go after changing the radiator cap?
 

TsgtB

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Granbury, Tx
Now what is going on? I thought you were good to go after changing the radiator cap?
well, its not spraying water out from the cap, but it still going SOMEWHERE... and I have foamy crap from the slobber tube, and the oil is turning green and HIGH up on the stick... (I've put about 6 gallons of coolant, mostly just water, through it), so I wont run it like that, its parked until I figure out what it is.
SO, my conundrum is... do I spend more effort (money) on a bad motor, or swap it out. I don't have a problem buying a couple of new heads or whatever the oil cooler might need, but if its a cracked block, how would I know....?
 

Jeepsinker

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Location
Dry Creek, Louisiana
You need to drain all of that out and let it sit empty. Antifreeze will destroy all of the bearings in your engine. It simply eats them away, and it doesn't take long or even have to run.
 

skinnyR1

Member
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Location
Burlington CT
Buy the radiator pressure tester from harbor freight. It is like 70 bucks. You will then pressurize the radiator and find out where the coolant is going.
If it is the head or head gasket, the combustion chamber will fill with coolant. Because of that, pull the injectors when you do the test. If you get coolant in there or can hear the leak, that is your answer. The leak down test will reveal the issue. Cracked block or liner, you may only see the oil rise and no reflection of a leak at the top.
I just went through the same thing and it was seeping hoses. I never saw the leak cuz the fan blew it all away.
Milky cap and smoky slobbering tube is normal by the way, for normal operation.
 

TsgtB

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Granbury, Tx
How long has it sat with water and antifreeze in the oil?

its been sitting about 9 days.....
after running around the neighborhood, it got hot 210* belching white crap out the slobber tube, so I took it back to the house, the top of the radiator was hot but the bottom was cold, so I tapped on the thermostat housing lightly with a hammer to see if it would free up. It cooled to almost 200 before I shut it down for a couple hours and let it cool off, put in a few more gallons of straight water in it.

Started up good and run a little more around the block, never got over 160*, top and bottom of radiator were warm, but when I pulled the dip stick, I could tell a difference in the oil, it was pretty high on the stick and greenish brown and didn't feel as slick between the fingers, so I parked it till I can work on it.
 

Jeepsinker

Well-known member
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Location
Dry Creek, Louisiana
Chances are the antifreeze has already done major damage to the bottom end bearings then. I wish you had drains the pan when it happened. Have you ever seen coolant eaten bearings? You may want to find another engine to swap in.
 
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