Help gen1

[M1009_SPAIN]

Hi guys, I need help with my M1009 and the damn Gen1.

I had my Gen1 rebuilt when the light came on, and I verified it wasn't a blown fuse, and that power was reaching the red lead with the key off and the brown lead of the white square connector with the key on.

It worked for two days, and on the third day, the Gen1 light turned on again.

I had my M1008CUCV at home without any issues, so I removed the Gen1 from the M1008 and installed it on the M1009. It worked for one day, and on the second day, the Gen1 light stayed on again and showed 12.8V.

I noticed that when Gen1 and Gen2 are working, both lights on the dash come on at the same time and with the same intensity, and when Gen1 fails, Gen2 comes on more intensely, about a second before Gen1.

I'm having a hard time finding the fault, does anyone have any ideas?

 

[Barrman]

Check the intake manifold end of the ground wire for the alternator. I have had a few of mine get corrosion there and weird things happen.

 

[M1009_SPAIN]

Check the intake manifold end of the ground wire for the alternator. I have had a few of mine get corrosion there and weird things happen

I checked it, cleaned it with a wire brush, cleaned the cable connector... that's why I said I'm out of ideas.

 

[Tow4]

It sounds like you are not sure if it's the alternator or the truck wiring. If you haven't already done the on the vehicle test, then do it. Click Here

If the alternator works in the test, I'd drive it around with the test hook up and see if it works continuously. You can tell if it quits by looking at the volt meter. Just remember to disconnect the test plug when you shut the engine off.

If the alternator is still intermittent, take it off and disassemble it and look for a lose connection. This is one of the easiest alternators to rebuild, all the internal connections are fasteners. Here is the rebuild thread with pictures. Click Here

 

[M1009_SPAIN]

I tested it, and the alternator works. After checking that it was generating 14.8V,

I connected a jumper cable from the red wire of the white exciter connector to the 12V B+ pin. The alternator always generates 14.8V. I checked it with the vehicle's voltmeter and with a manual voltmeter. 14V on the front battery and 29V on the rear battery.

For now, this is the solution I've found.