Desert Rat
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We want pics.! We want pics.! We want pics.! We want....................... MORE pics.!
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Help with dash at night
- Thread starter n3uka
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rmgill
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Hey Bjorn, wouldn't it make sense to move the headlights to a relay with it's own breaker? That's take the largest amperage draw off the 3 lever switch. You could make it a pretty easy modification with a single relay for each lamp with a separate wire bundle. That way you don't have to cut the harness behind the 3 lever.
mangus580
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Ryan, wouldnt that require 2 relays for each headlight? one for each of low and high beam on each bulb?
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Ryan, posted a schematic last week:
http://steelsoldiers.com/DotNetForum/default.aspx?f=43&m=21064
It's hard to find some of these posts after a few days...
http://steelsoldiers.com/DotNetForum/default.aspx?f=43&m=21064
It's hard to find some of these posts after a few days...
mangus580
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I think what Ryan was saying, was to use relays up near the headlights, so as to not 'butcher' the wiring harness to use your schematic. which would work just fine, but require 4 relays... or I suppose you could grab the wires right before the dimmer switch... maybe thats what you were suggesting Bjorn? minds a little foggy, too much programming lately....
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Mike, one relay will do it. Just "grab" it before the dimmer switch as shown in the drawing.
mangus580
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Like I said... too much programming.... :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
Iron Mike
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Have you considered soldering halogen 4-12 watt 12V pairing them in series?
I had done this in my M37, but the switch felt hot, so I added a 500k pot.
It made the red gauges jump out too brightly.
I could see my reflection in the windshield better than the hood, on full "power" with the dimmer knob.
You wouldn't believe where I found them the cheapest, only $1.50 ea; Walmart.
Don't forget; wire'em in series - paired up. Lower 4 watters were the lowest heat in the bulb casing.
Step two, the bright LEDs in fixed positon cans, aiming directly at the needles. Use almost no amperage
and can control any gauge individually for priority lighting, wired up seperately. Look for Milspec aviation
clearing houses for the reverse direction bulb "cans" for Jet instrumentation panels. they are also in 24V config.
I had done this in my M37, but the switch felt hot, so I added a 500k pot.
It made the red gauges jump out too brightly.
I could see my reflection in the windshield better than the hood, on full "power" with the dimmer knob.
You wouldn't believe where I found them the cheapest, only $1.50 ea; Walmart.
Don't forget; wire'em in series - paired up. Lower 4 watters were the lowest heat in the bulb casing.
Step two, the bright LEDs in fixed positon cans, aiming directly at the needles. Use almost no amperage
and can control any gauge individually for priority lighting, wired up seperately. Look for Milspec aviation
clearing houses for the reverse direction bulb "cans" for Jet instrumentation panels. they are also in 24V config.