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Help with dash at night

rmgill

Active member
2,479
14
38
Location
Decatur, Ga
Hey Bjorn, wouldn't it make sense to move the headlights to a relay with it's own breaker? That's take the largest amperage draw off the 3 lever switch. You could make it a pretty easy modification with a single relay for each lamp with a separate wire bundle. That way you don't have to cut the harness behind the 3 lever.
 

mangus580

New member
6,010
282
0
Location
Western NY
I think what Ryan was saying, was to use relays up near the headlights, so as to not 'butcher' the wiring harness to use your schematic. which would work just fine, but require 4 relays... or I suppose you could grab the wires right before the dimmer switch... maybe thats what you were suggesting Bjorn? minds a little foggy, too much programming lately....
 

Iron Mike

New member
11
0
0
Location
Western Missouri
Have you considered soldering halogen 4-12 watt 12V pairing them in series?
I had done this in my M37, but the switch felt hot, so I added a 500k pot.
It made the red gauges jump out too brightly.
I could see my reflection in the windshield better than the hood, on full "power" with the dimmer knob.
You wouldn't believe where I found them the cheapest, only $1.50 ea; Walmart.
Don't forget; wire'em in series - paired up. Lower 4 watters were the lowest heat in the bulb casing.

Step two, the bright LEDs in fixed positon cans, aiming directly at the needles. Use almost no amperage
and can control any gauge individually for priority lighting, wired up seperately. Look for Milspec aviation
clearing houses for the reverse direction bulb "cans" for Jet instrumentation panels. they are also in 24V config.
 
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