Hood scoop to radiator shrouding

Glider

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I'm trying to make my fan run less. It works 100% correctly. I just want it to run less.

I think if there was a good seal from hood to radiator stack it would cool much better when running 55mph. On my unit it looks like there is some rubber seal on one side of the radiator but nowhere else and I can't see signs of some thing being removed. I was looking thru FB buy sale group and saw an ad for a cusromized hmmvw. I screen shot the attached picture. Has anyone seen shrouding like in picture?
 

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Action

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That pic has a lot of custom parts. It appears ro have a 3” - 4” body lift.
you do not want anything solid hitting the bottom of the hood.
your humvee should also have a seal across the top of the radiator. It attaches to the hood near the big square hole. If yours is missing, there will be holes across the “rib”.
 

Action

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Make sure your top hood grill is not on backwards. The earler grills have angled fins. You should be able to stand by the front bumper (hood closed) and see the radiator. If it is on backwards, it will be harder to see radiator.
I also suggest cleaning out any debris and dirt from between the oil cooler and radiator. I had to replace a motor in my first humvee. There was a solid 1/4” thick sheet of dirt between the rad and cooler.
 

Action

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12446771.....LH splashshield
12446770.....cover, access hole
5593910 or 12338632.....seal
12338630.....retainer, top
12338634-1.....retainer front

The splash shield used to be about $15 from AMG. Vendors are high now.
rubberduck4x4.com looks to have the best prices on these parts. They mainly work on H1s, but these parts are the same. About $103 + shipping for all 5 of parts listed above. They are in SW Ohio.
You will also need nuts, bolts, and j-clips. You can order those from Travis also.
 

Glider

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Action, your handle serves you well! I'll give them a call in the morning and order. I was hoping I could find a place that could look up the parts diagram and basically put together a kit. I'll post progress.
 

Action

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Action, your handle serves you well! I'll give them a call in the morning and order. I was hoping I could find a place that could look up the parts diagram and basically put together a kit. I'll post progress.
Ask if they happen to have a used one for less $. Sometimes they do.
 

Glider

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Its all ordered. Rubber duck sent me to Kascar. They didn't have the spash guard. Kascar had everything but was 235 for the splash guard. I ordered all fastening and seals from Kascar but not the splash guard. I ordered spalsh guard from ebay for 104.00 delivered. Total parts bill wasd around 210.00.

Thanks again Action.
 
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Mogman

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I think one of the biggest misconceptions is that there is air flow at speed to the hood, after watching a dead bee roll around on the hood next to the top grill for several miles I have come to the conclusion there is no air flow to the grill on top of the hood at speed otherwise the bee would have been blown off.
In fact common wisdom would dictate that there would actually be a low pressure on top of the hood just like on top of an airplane wing so I would not be surprised if some of the airflow into the front grill is actually passing out of the top grill at speed.......
 

Glider

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I think one of the biggest misconceptions is that there is air flow at speed to the hood, after watching a dead bee roll around on the hood next to the top grill for several miles I have come to the conclusion there is no air flow to the grill on top of the hood at speed otherwise the bee would have been blown off.
In fact common wisdom would dictate that there would actually be a low pressure on top of the hood just like on top of an airplane wing so I would not be surprised if some of the airflow into the front grill is actually passing out of the top grill at speed.......
I see the thought behind your reasoning. Attached are my redneck wind tunnel results.

If your theory is correct should part of the hood scoop be covered to force air from front into radiators? I do think a scoop, good seal between scoop and "both radiators" can't not force air thru the radiator. All the old school ram air intakes can't be wrong could they?
 

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Mogman

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I see the thought behind your reasoning. Attached are my redneck wind tunnel results.

If your theory is correct should part of the hood scoop be covered to force air from front into radiators? I do think a scoop, good seal between scoop and "both radiators" can't not force air thru the radiator. All the old school ram air intakes can't be wrong could they?
Yes they can, most factory ones were non functional because they knew they would not work, they were mostly just for looks.
 
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