How do I identify my M151A2 ?

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Grits

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Andy, you may be able to back off the adjuster on the rocker all the way, push the rocker to the side and then get the rod in place. Be sure the lifter is down and you should have room to move the rocker back into position. This will save having to lift the valve train but that is not hard to do either.
I did this and it worked!! However, it still doesn't run on that cylinder, even though the lifter is now moving.
A local mechanic said the valve has "collapsed"........ But maybe it's just "stuck"....
I think I'll just drive it some...had a semi-nice ride this afternoon....not too bad with the choke out some....
 
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Jay Mallari

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I don't know for sure....but I'm pretty sure it is a late 77 or early '78.....
Grits, based from the bumper markings, are you able to identify which unit in the army this mutt was last assigned to?
Here is how the marines would have stenciled it in 1 inch font. I took these pics from the American Military Museum
in South El Monte, CA. But then again, you might not find any USMC markings on yours if this mutt came from a marine depot
and issued straight to the army.

DSC03490.jpgDSC03486.jpgDSC03487.jpg
 

Badojeep

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I have a 78 M151A2, there should be some numbers stamped on the left side of the shifter hump. hard to go by the date-plate, they get changed out very easy.
 

poppop

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Andy, now that you have the pushrod back on, did you adjust the valve to the proper gap?? If its to loose it may not be opening the valve. If you don't have a feeler gauge then make sure the lifter is all the way down, tighten the adjusting stud down until you still have a little free play in the push rod. It should run with this setting. Have you let the engine run with the valve cover off?? You can do this and see if the valve spring is compressing. If all this fails then it is time to check compression on that cylinder. If you don't have a tester then press you finger over the plug hole and have someone turn the engine. It should blow your finger off the hole. If you have compression then swap that plug wire with another wire and see if the dead cylinder follows the wire. If the wire is good then swap the plug and try again.
 

Grits

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Yes, I adjusted the the valve.....but had to tighten it all the way down to stop the rattling.....
My Friend/Mechanic has cancer and is now taking chemo and other treatments.....but I did take it to him to look at.
He "tinkered" a few minutes before having to stop and go in.
He said the "?????? Collapsed" , and that I would have to take the "side plate off to get to the valves......and maybe remove the ? cam/??? on top..
.....Does that sound in line with your thoughts? ....BTW, all new plugs and all wires are good with a strong spark jump.
 

poppop

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Andy, he must mean the valve lifter has collapsed. Each lifter has a spring in it pushing up on a small plate in top of the lifter. Oil get into the lifter and when the cam pushes up it compresses the spring and pumps oil up the push rod to the rocker arm. If its collapsed it will not pump oil but should still work enough to make that cylinder run. It will rattle though. To replace it remove the side cover on the engine, remove the push rod by reversing the way you got it back on and pull the push rod. You can probably take a magnet and pull the lifter, it just sits in the hole. Before you pull it get someone to turn the engine over and observe all the lifters moving up and down. Goes the bad one move up as much as the others?? This will tell you if the cam lobe is worn badly and not raising the valve. I seriously doubt if the cam is worn because most of these trucks did not have enough miles on for that. If you need a lifter I have a parts engine I can take one out for you.
 

Grits

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It is oiling as much as the others....I did notice that.
I need to actually see these parts on/in an engine as I can't visualize what you're trying so hard to explain to my hard head.
I'm trying to decide if this is something I can do or not.....I tinker but not "inside" an engine.
....And thank you for the offer on the lifter.....when can you bring it to me? I know your not doing anything but using you back to get outa' work!
See You Soon,
Andy
 

Grits

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In the previous post ....the same # is on the front drivers side and on the rear passenger side bumpers....(and vice-versa)
2998-E 5
Other side ....230E
Also behind the passenger handle is "install drain plug before fording"
And on the windshield frame, drivers side below the glass is "Clerk"
 
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Grits

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more ID photos

DSCN0047.jpgDSCN0048.jpgDSCN0049.jpg

The Mutt came complete with 6 point roll bar,side doors, rear webbing, top, fire extinguisher and a spare top and frame....
I still have all this....somewhere.
 

poppop

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Brooklet, Ga
Andy, I did a good job of explaining hydralic lifters to you, problem is this engine does not have hydralic lifters. The lifters are solid and called tappets. I just got to thinking and said hey, I don't know if these are hydralic and pulled my TM and they are not. Hydralic lifters are not adjusted with a feeler gauge. These are and are supposed to be .017 cold. Also the adjusting studs are self locking and do not have a lock nut as I said earlier. This brings up the question of why was the push rod off in the first place. Did that self locking stud back off and become so loose that the rod fell out?? So, does that stud seem to be tight when you turn it?? Do all the valves seem to be moving up and down the same when the cover is off and engine running??

The rockers oil from a line that puts oil in the rocker tube and not up the pushrod.

I think check valve movement and compression on that cylinder and we can go from there.
 

Grits

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I think I need a real mechanic......not a tinkerer like me!!
The self locking nut did not back off......something else made the rod too short...
Now I have that nut tightened almost all the way down to stop/minimize the loud tapping.....
something is wrong down inside from the side plate.....
 

Jay Mallari

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Middlesex, England
In the previous post ....the same # is on the front drivers side and on the rear passenger side bumpers....(and vice-versa)
2998-E 5
Other side ....230E
Also behind the passenger handle is "install drain plug before fording"
And on the windshield frame, drivers side below the glass is "Clerk"
I wonder if this mutt was once assigned to the 230th Brigade Support Company, Georgia National Guard?
 

Grits

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Darien, Georgia
Took another ride today and now beginning to doubt my "bad valve" theory.....
It has run better since I put the pushrod back in and adjusted the lifter.....
But today it would spin the wheels instantly on dirt and ran rather "peppy" ...WITH THE CHOKE OUT...almost all the way !!
With the choke only out a little, it would want to stall out if I pushed the gas much at all....
But it would idle with the choke all the way in.....
And the Strong skip was not nearly as pronounced today...
Now I'm starting to think CARB/FUEL FLOW....problem....Trash!?
Any thoughts??

BTW.....I ran it up to 55mph with the choke almost all the way out!
 
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poppop

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Brooklet, Ga
Hey Andy

Sounds like carb to me. Probably needs to be taken apart and soaked in carb cleaner and blown out real good. All these 151's have to have the choke out some to run good. When in service the mechanic would pull the choke till it ran good and then loosen the cable set screw and push the knob on the dash all the way in and retighten the screw. This set the choke at the good running spot. They also have that dead spot when you accelerate but your accelerator pump could be bad to. Someone in Military Vehicles Magazine advertizes rebuild carbs that don't have that dead spot.


As for the skip maybe it just needs to be driven some more and get it to operating temperture will help. Make it work a little as in petal on the floor accelaration for short bursts.
 

Grits

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Darien, Georgia
Maybe I should pull the choke out and drive it to Brooklet, Ga. !!
But I agree, I needs to be driven and the carb needs to be rebuilt....I've already got the hard carb kit....
 
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