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How I solved the M1101 to tall problem.

maxtor

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When the M1101 is level with the stock 37 inch tires, the pintle is at 29.5 inches from the ground. Most pickup truck hitches are at about 21 inches.
You can either lower the trailer or raise the hitch. Since lowering the trailer requires shorter wheels and tires, and that will only drop the trailer down about 2.5 inches, raising the hitch was the way I went. Buying the pintle hitch cost about $37 and about $20 for the 1/2 inch by 5 inch plate steel along with the 3/8 by 1 inch gusset material, it was much cheaper and levels the trailer while towing. I made it adjustable by drilling extra holes in the steel plate, just in case I bought shorter tires in the future.

P1010114.jpg

P1010116.jpg
 

KsM715

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One emergency stop with the trailer loaded and you'll find out just how strong it is. ( that's a lot of leverage on that thing as long as it is)
 

marchplumber

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Load trailer, find an empty parking lot and give it the "test". Safety first. Check for stress or cracks and let us know the results.
God bless
Tony
 

maxtor

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Remember the 1101/1102 trailers have surge brakes. I can test it later on and let you guys know. Plus take a look at the gussets, they are one inch wide and 3/8 thick and run down the complete length of the plate. This plate is solid.
I agree, safety comes first, so I will keep an eye on it, and test it with maximum load. I will do panic stops at 5 mph, then 10 mph, etc. until I test it at 55 mph which will be my normal cruise speed pulling this trailer. As well as it is built, I will be very surprised to see it bend or crack.
 
Last edited:

John Galt

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Fort Worth, TX
I am not a fan of the towers of death unless it is for the initial recovery. If you plan to use that trailer I would modify the tongue of the trailer to gain a few inches, get a slight riser plate for truck side, then smaller tires should give you the rest.

Another thing to consider, those 37" tires are not really meant for freeway use. The trailer will pull much nicer with balanced truck wheels/tires.
 

tobyS

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There will be side forces as well. I think your hitch is reinforced OK... my bet would be on failure of the Reese hitch it'self.
 

wdbtchr

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I don't know what the rating of your receiver is but that setup might just peel the whole thing off your frame. I would check it sooner than later.
 

maxtor

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I know that the system I made will work fine. I do appreciate all the inputs from others, and will be checking on the reliability of my system. The bottom is two 1/2 inch plate steel, bolted together. The area above the two plates is gusseted very well so bending would be hard to do, especially since the trailer has surge brakes. The only issue I see is that the plate would interfere with our tailgate on our 2012 Ford PSD truck if I lowered the tailgate to the level position.

The other option would be to put 29 inch tires on the trailer and that would only lower the trailer 4 inches. Most 2000 lb. tires are 31 or 32 inches in diameter, and that would only lower the trailer by 2.5 or 3 inches.
My hitch is adjustable to both 37 inch stock tires to 31 inch shorter tires and keeps the trailer level.
 

JRSurplus

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I think you are missing every ones point a little bit. Not many are concerned with the hitch you built failing. Its the fact that with that hitch you have made it so tall it will create a lot of extra leverage and force on the receiver part bolted in the truck. It may create enough force to peel it off the frame of the truck. Looks like a good hitch for recovery but I wouldn't use it on a loaded trailer.
 

tobyS

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Maxtor, I have a similar issue with an M105. We are not saying that your work is not safe, but that the leverage created by a long moment arm is possibly more than the Reese hitch frame can handle. Look at the cross tube of the Reese. I'll bet it is under 1/8" thick.

If you have ever had a trailer start side to side motion at 60 mph, you will know that the small amount of side motion can get magnified into big and uncontrollable oscillation in a hurry...especially loaded.

I went to etrailer and purchased the channel that has multiple holes for height adjustment, along with a 2 5/16" ball hitch and a ring. While I don't have a surge brake, making the mounting easier, it is possible to triangulate to the frame for a lower connect point. I'm changing my 105 to a different axle (electric brakes, under-slung) and hummer wheels to get a bit lower, making it about the height of your trailer. It's just my opinion, but changing the ring on the trailer, lowering it (even with surge brakes), would be better route.
 

maxtor

New member
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Location
California
Yes, I see now what you guys are saying. The Reese hitch would be the weak point. I will only use my system when the trailer is empty. I will lower the trailer by installing the shortest tires I can buy that will hold the one ton load safely.
tobyS; I will try to incorporate some of your ideas on our trailer.
Wbtchr and Jrsurplus; Thanks, I see now what you guys have been saying.
 

tobyS

Well-known member
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Location
IN
Yes, I see now what you guys are saying. The Reese hitch would be the weak point. I will only use my system when the trailer is empty. I will lower the trailer by installing the shortest tires I can buy that will hold the one ton load safely.
tobyS; I will try to incorporate some of your ideas on our trailer.
Wbtchr and Jrsurplus; Thanks, I see now what you guys have been saying.

You would have an advantage in buying wheels over my 105. It is 8 lug, the same as older 3/4 ton trucks and also Dexter axles, so a lot is available.

Take a look at your tongue frame and see if an offset can be put in it by a good welder. Do you plan on staying with the luna ring or go to a ball?

My guess is that the ring you have is forged steel and could be altered, welded, but I haven't tried it to know for sure.
 
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