How to remove the Fuel Shutoff Rod on the IP

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Baddoug337

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I have zero knowledge of these trucks but just bought a '71 M35A2 and drove it almost 1000 miles home to Southwest Louisiana. On the trip the engine would cut out going up hill or overpasses or any time I needed to give it more throttle to maintain speed. The whole time I was thinking the fuel system was sucking air. Stopped and checked the injector pump and injectors and such with some brake cleaner looking for leaks that may make the engine to idle up but nothing. Today the same thing, just diving normal speed at around 2000 rpm and at every incline the engine would do the same split second cut out and even at times actually go quite for about a full second then back to going again. Hold this fuel shut off for be my problem also or could be something else completely? Please any help with diagnosing the issue would be much appreciated. The truck runs great other than at highway speeds up hill. In town it never skips a beat. I love it!!
 

gimpyrobb

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I have zero knowledge of these trucks but just bought a '71 M35A2 and drove it almost 1000 miles home to Southwest Louisiana. On the trip the engine would cut out going up hill or overpasses or any time I needed to give it more throttle to maintain speed. The whole time I was thinking the fuel system was sucking air. Stopped and checked the injector pump and injectors and such with some brake cleaner looking for leaks that may make the engine to idle up but nothing. Today the same thing, just diving normal speed at around 2000 rpm and at every incline the engine would do the same split second cut out and even at times actually go quite for about a full second then back to going again. Hold this fuel shut off for be my problem also or could be something else completely? Please any help with diagnosing the issue would be much appreciated. The truck runs great other than at highway speeds up hill. In town it never skips a beat. I love it!!
Put new fuel filters in it. Have you tried draining them? Might be water in the fuel too.
 

USAFSS-ColdWarrior

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Great THANKS to gimpyrobb for his mentorship on our ongoing NO START problem.

Having exhausted the STUCK FUEL SHUT-OFF thought, AND replacing the Air Filter as previously mentioned, we have determined that the BUTTON & its CLIP may have come off the Hydraulic Head.

Since this fresh diagnosis is outside the scope of this Thread, I'll continue posting in the following thread which addresses the HH repair.....
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?74508-Need-Part-IP-Pump-Hydraulic-Head-Ring-Clip-needed-to-hold-button-on-rod

Thank y'all for the invaluable support!
 
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Michael

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Wouldn't it be a good idea to replace the O ring if one went to the trouble to disassemble and clean this or is it some high tolerance hard to find O ring.
 

gimpyrobb

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Yes. A member or two here are selling the hydraulic head Oring sets for a very reasonable price, cant think of who it is right now though.
 

jth3rd

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Very valuable thread, missed it and had a run away from not setting it back correctly but was able to get it shut down thankfully and correct it

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

Keith_J

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No fuel is most probably a button. This is common on engines with stuck fuel control levers, its all about the fuel oxidizing and making varnish.

Since I started tearing into this injection pump family, I have found a miracle product called Diesel Mechanic in a Bottle. This dissolves varnish FAST. It might work on a stuck lever without disassembly. But it won't do anything for a dropped button retainer.
 

Floridianson

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Don't know if it will eat the embedded stuff in the steel on the plunger or fuel control. You might need something to polish it off if it is real bad as it sometimes you can not even feel the varnish. It's like a stain but you can not remove any metal on the plunger if you polish it.
 

Robo McDuff

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Update for a 5-ton no-start multi fuel. Posted on that here.
Thanks to some remarks by Texandy and speeding up my own brains, I found back this and other threads on the topic. Best to put my experience and pics here as well.

The cover with the engine stop lever on the right. It had been in the "stop" position for around a year. Pushed it back in before starting, but no start, like in no fuel.
IMG_7287_resize.jpg
Pulled it back and pushed it back in, no dice.
Yesterday evening I checked the old threads on this topic, including gimpyrobb's remark that the stop lever does NOT push back the fuel cutoff rod.

Today: time to open and see:
IMG_7290_resize.jpgIMG_7293-c_resize.jpg
On the left, the situation when taking off the cover. The rod is stuck at cutoff, no wonder I could not get the truck started.

Just a slight touch, no power, and it jumped back to open (right picture). After that, it moved without friction and jumped back to open every time.

IMG_7291_resize.jpg
The engine stop lever was a whee bit bent close to the seal mark. That was causing the engine stop to not wanting to go out and not wanting to go back easy. We very carefully straightened it out, now it runs sweet as well.
Put everything back, two good batteries, one starter push and the engine runs sweet as always.
Total working time: around 15 minutes.

:clinto::clinto::tank:

Thanks people, SteelSoldiers forum came through once again.


Edit: I knew I posted a related thread on this topic: broken stop cable.
 
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Floridianson

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This is why we always leave the stop cable pulled out when we leave the truck. If the fuel control unit assembly wants to get sticky / stuck it is better to be in the no fuel than the wide open position. Also you might think about removing the fuel control unit assembly and do a deep cleaning as it is starting to get sticky. Yes it will cost you a O ring and some time. That or double or triple the dose of diesel fuel cleaner and run some fuel through the truck. Then you need to keep and eye on the fuel control unit assembly that it is staying free and correct. This can be done every six months to a year just remove the shut down cover.
 
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