84cucv1ton
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hi guys is there a way to test these? where to buy them? the one in my m1008 rack body keep the rpm high, doesnt come back down.. thanks for the help
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how to test and i find these.. not sure what there called
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dstang97
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I read somewhere that you can clean them. Usually they won't even work. All you have to do to test the, is to ground them out and put power to the terminal.
ODdave
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When the idle is high un plug it and see if it drops. if it dose its fine...
DonK
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.......it's a coil......ohm it out....if it's open, that should tell you something
NAPA AUTO PARTS)
NAPA CRB 219228
Idle Stop Solenoid
Barrman just fixed two of them. Maybe he will post up some pictures
NAPA CRB 219228
Idle Stop Solenoid
Barrman just fixed two of them. Maybe he will post up some pictures
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combatmech
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Mine just quit the other day. When its really cold, or the truck has been sitting overnight, it would kick on until warm. Thanks for the info!!!
biggestc69
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I had a problem with mine holding the idle too high. Found a cheap used one and put it on a toggle switch. Works great now.
txmytx_catahoula
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I found my original "fast idle solenoid" not functioning, but someone had adjusted it to ALWAYS hold the throttle on high. After cleaning all the contacts on the circuit and adjusting it back off, it worked fine. If it isn't getting voltage, it shouldn't be holding the throttle open. Apply a 12v wire to the where the green wire connects, without pressure on the rod, and you should hear/see the solenoid work.
Also check to see if the green wire has 12v constant voltage when the engine is cold and hot.
If so the Cold Idle switch on the right rear cylnder head may be bad and stuck open, constantly sending 12v to the High Idle and Cold Advance circuits.
If so the Cold Idle switch on the right rear cylnder head may be bad and stuck open, constantly sending 12v to the High Idle and Cold Advance circuits.
Barrman
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Fast idle soleniod.
The green wire that plugs into it is spliced in with the cold advance solenoid green wire. Both get there power from the cold advance/fast idle switch. That switch is located on the outside rear of the passenger side cylinder head. It really is just as much of a sensor than switch. It has constant power to it and when it senses the coolant is below 95°. It connects the terminals and power goes to the fast idle and cold advance soleniods.
Since the switch trips at 95° and the glow plug sensor is supposed to be at 125°. That means you could get fast idle activation after sitting an hour or so and not have the WAIT light come on.
With the engine off and cold, turn on the key and see if you are getting power to either green wire at the IP. Check again with the engine warmed up. When cold, power. When hot, no power. The switch/sensor on my USAF Suburban was stuck on. $18 from Amazon and all is well again.
However, being on who knows how many hours of driving both after I owned it and before I got it means both solenoids were burned up. I swapped in a fast idle solenoid off a truck Warthog has sitting here. It came on and off with the key when the engine was cold. I fired the truck up and was around 1500 rpm. The shaft in the middle of the solenoid can be turned to raise or lower the fast idle. I got it to around 850 where I like it and waited for it to turn off. When the upper radiator hose got fully pressurized and was 160°. I realized my switch was bad.
I put a new IP in my M1009 back in October. It ran great, but wouldn't turn off. The shut off solenoid wasn't right. I pulled the top off the IP probably 5 times before I gave up and put my old pump cover on. Each time pulling the pump cover meant I had to unplug and move the fast idle solenoid. A few weeks ago, I got the correct new shut off solenoid and pulled my old IP cover off to install the new cover with the new solenoid. When I test fired it, no fast idle.
I messed with the plug, put a test light on it and an ohm meter. Bad fast idle soleniod. I didn't have a good spare and since my wife is now daily driving the thing. It had to be working. I pulled the fast idle solenoid and got the rubber cover off. There is a single itsy bitsy wire going from the green wire connector inside to the coil. There is another itsy bitsy wire inside down on the outside of the coil soldered to the frame.
Anybody that has plugged or unplugged a fast idle solenoid knows the connector is kind of loose and wiggles a lot. That isty bitsy wire on both of mine I repaired was a bit shorter than it should have been. Moving the lead to plug and unplug it so many times broke the wire. It is just soldered to the lead. A fine tip solder gun and thin solder is all it took to fix mine. Of course, I broke it plugging the green wire in once I got it back on the truck. More solder, repeat. I ended up building a little solder bridge to make the wire have some slack.
Since I was now an expert at fixing them. I took a look at the solenoid off the Blue Bomber that had previously tested as no good. Same thing, burned itsy bitsy wire. A little bit of solder while looking through a magnifying glass and it works great too.
I was really looking forward to bending back the tabs that hold the thing together and pulling it all apart. However, since I got it fixed. I stopped while I was ahead.
Hopefully, this will explain why it comes on, when it turns off and how to adjust and maybe repair one. If not, let me know.
The green wire that plugs into it is spliced in with the cold advance solenoid green wire. Both get there power from the cold advance/fast idle switch. That switch is located on the outside rear of the passenger side cylinder head. It really is just as much of a sensor than switch. It has constant power to it and when it senses the coolant is below 95°. It connects the terminals and power goes to the fast idle and cold advance soleniods.
Since the switch trips at 95° and the glow plug sensor is supposed to be at 125°. That means you could get fast idle activation after sitting an hour or so and not have the WAIT light come on.
With the engine off and cold, turn on the key and see if you are getting power to either green wire at the IP. Check again with the engine warmed up. When cold, power. When hot, no power. The switch/sensor on my USAF Suburban was stuck on. $18 from Amazon and all is well again.
However, being on who knows how many hours of driving both after I owned it and before I got it means both solenoids were burned up. I swapped in a fast idle solenoid off a truck Warthog has sitting here. It came on and off with the key when the engine was cold. I fired the truck up and was around 1500 rpm. The shaft in the middle of the solenoid can be turned to raise or lower the fast idle. I got it to around 850 where I like it and waited for it to turn off. When the upper radiator hose got fully pressurized and was 160°. I realized my switch was bad.
I put a new IP in my M1009 back in October. It ran great, but wouldn't turn off. The shut off solenoid wasn't right. I pulled the top off the IP probably 5 times before I gave up and put my old pump cover on. Each time pulling the pump cover meant I had to unplug and move the fast idle solenoid. A few weeks ago, I got the correct new shut off solenoid and pulled my old IP cover off to install the new cover with the new solenoid. When I test fired it, no fast idle.
I messed with the plug, put a test light on it and an ohm meter. Bad fast idle soleniod. I didn't have a good spare and since my wife is now daily driving the thing. It had to be working. I pulled the fast idle solenoid and got the rubber cover off. There is a single itsy bitsy wire going from the green wire connector inside to the coil. There is another itsy bitsy wire inside down on the outside of the coil soldered to the frame.
Anybody that has plugged or unplugged a fast idle solenoid knows the connector is kind of loose and wiggles a lot. That isty bitsy wire on both of mine I repaired was a bit shorter than it should have been. Moving the lead to plug and unplug it so many times broke the wire. It is just soldered to the lead. A fine tip solder gun and thin solder is all it took to fix mine. Of course, I broke it plugging the green wire in once I got it back on the truck. More solder, repeat. I ended up building a little solder bridge to make the wire have some slack.
Since I was now an expert at fixing them. I took a look at the solenoid off the Blue Bomber that had previously tested as no good. Same thing, burned itsy bitsy wire. A little bit of solder while looking through a magnifying glass and it works great too.
I was really looking forward to bending back the tabs that hold the thing together and pulling it all apart. However, since I got it fixed. I stopped while I was ahead.
Hopefully, this will explain why it comes on, when it turns off and how to adjust and maybe repair one. If not, let me know.
84cucv1ton
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yes the rpms go down when i pull the wire off. thanks warthog, it will stay at higher rpms till i pull the wire off. thats the first thing ill check thanks
84cucv1ton
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thanks barrman that tell me a alot..
combatmech
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Evidently my cold idle sensor is working. Just started up the truck, tapped the throttle and the rev's went up, then back down after about a min. Not sure why it wasnt working before.
Stray trons maybe
Stray trons maybe
txmytx_catahoula
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During the start up "Wait" cycle do you press the throttle peddle to the floor? The solenoid has enough strength to hold the throttle open, but not enough to get it there on it's own.
combatmech
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I was reading about that in the ops manual last month, Even on real cold days, no I do not. I let it start, idle for a moment, then give the throttle a tap to get the revs up. It has been pretty warm here in Va. Up until last night.
txmytx_catahoula
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All it really takes is a press and release during the wait cycle. As Barrman wrote, it cuts off when the coolant reaches 95 degrees. I do this every time I starts, lets me know when the engine has warmed up.
combatmech
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I'll read through the procedure again and give it a shot. Thanks fellow Texan
Barrman
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The fast idle really does make a good bit of difference on cold starts. We have been down in the 24-28° range the last two mornings here. The Blue Bomber started up and ran great yesterday with the fast idle engaged. This morning I had my son do it while I was feeding the horses. He didn't push the pedal first and it clanked, clattered, sputtered and coughed a good bit until I got over there and gently pushed the pedal down so the fast idle could engage. Then it smoothed right out.