mattsb2000
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My friend bought a M998 and has been keeping it at my shop. I drew this up and plasma cut it. It's simple and it keeps people from starting it.
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I made this a few months ago. HMMWV shift lock
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I like that. I was thinking of ways to lock the e brake up so some dummy can't get in and release it.
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I like it
suzukovich
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It will still start.
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Only if you know how to go around the neutral safety . Or am I missing something?
orgnal
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orgnal
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Neat idea!My friend bought a M998 and has been keeping it at my shop. I drew this up and plasma cut it. It's simple and it keeps people from starting it.
McReddy
mattsb2000
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Sure it will if you climb under it.
This isn't anything fancy. It's a passive device to keep less than honest people from messing with it.
I never liked the cable lock so I made this.
suzukovich
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I agree about the cable lock. Having driven Humvees for almost 23 yrs. I always thought it was useless. Easy to cut. As for starting. Unless you have installed a keyed ignition or battery cut of switch. Since transmission doesn't have a park brake, it can be push started in gear.
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DCIV
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How would you do that? Get it rolling in N and then put it in drive? Or physically have it pushed in drive? Would that even work well?
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How does one push start an automatic tranny?
There is a torque converter between the engine and the tranny that would prevent such an endeavor.
Last edited:
suzukovich
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Leave it in drive, it's not like a manual transmission where you pop the clutch . Another way of jumping it off. Pain but works unless there is no power to the ignition system.
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suzukovich
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Also lock being used can still be cut with bolt cutters.
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If someone really wants the truck they can tow it away. I have keyed ignitions in all my trucks. Anything added is just an additional layer of deterrent and a bit more safety so a dummy doesn't just jump in a start messing with controls. With the bigger trucks the keyed ignition is more secure I just drain the air and the truck isn't going anywhere. The humvee has hydraulic brakes not so easy, it can still roll.
mattsb2000
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Post a video of this please.
I should probably take the sling points off of it as well. Never know when a rogue helicopter pilot might come by.
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Unless you can demonstrate that you've done it, I'm calling bulls hit on this one...
In fact, give me a couple of weeks and I'll be able to demonstrate that this will not work: I'll put a hmmwv on towbars and drag it with the transmission in gear. It won't start.
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You would need to have an automatic transmission where the fluid pump drive was coupled to the output shafts. Don't think it's gonna happen on a humvee. You are dependent on torque converter engagement.
suzukovich
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I saw it happen down range with an uparmored. It surprised everyone. It was being recovered. Driver left the switch on an it was in gear. If I hadn't seen I would have not belived it either.
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ryanruck
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Myself and another member have been helping mattsb2000 R&D his shift lockout plates to see what could need changed or improved in his design if he decides to do a run of them.
I received one of the plates and did the install on my truck last week. Mine was a version he designed for folks who have installed rivnuts for their shift assemblies. It has holes to allow reuse of the shifter assembly bolts, unlike the one in his original post which has the threaded studs.
Installation is super easy, moreso if you've already installed the rivnuts. Whether you've already installed or plan to install rivnuts will determine which version of the plate you'd need. I highly recommend installing rivnuts and going with the rivnut version for ease of future maintenance.
This plate replaces the entire top plate on the shifter. On the 3 speed shifter, this means undoing 3 mounting bolts. You, of course, will need to remove the entire shift assembly from your truck before beginning this. If you don't know how to do this, please see TM 9-2320-280-20-2, section 5-7, page 589/954.
Since you're going to be disassembling the shifter, I'd recommend picking up a new sweep gasket/shifter seal (12338456/3040-01-249-1435) and new boot (5584110/2520-01-210-3506) at a minimum and, if you need it a new transmission shift indicator (12338439/2540-01-184-5502) and a transfer case indicator plate (12338433/9905-01-207-6304) as well.
The lockout plate is hot rolled steel and is ready, as is, for the paint of your choice. I used plain old flat black rattlecan. It's also a good time to give your shifter shafts a shot of paint to clean them up.
Removal of the original plate and installation of the new plate requires removal of the shift knobs on both shafts. Please note, these are secured with red Loctite. If they give you trouble coming off, be careful not to overtoqrue the shafts as it can break/bend the pivot shaft they both attach to, as the other R&Der found out!
While you have the transmission knob off, this is a good opportunity to clean the decades of grime and grit out of the detent latching mechanism and then lubricate it. Please don't use plain WD-40 to lubricate it unless you like brown gum buildup after a while! Any quality lubricant should suffice.
Once you've got the knobs off, just undo the previously mentioned plate mounting bolts taking care not to lose some washers that are between the plate and assembly, besides the ones on the top and bottom. See TM 9-2320-280-24P-1, Figure 99, page 305/968 for a diagram of the shift assembly and where the washers go.
After you've got the original plate off, install your new parts, and then just slide the new plate on and secure. Couldn't be any easier!
One thing the other R&Der and I noticed is that the plate seems slightly undersized. We've let mattsb2000 know and he's planning on making them slightly oversized in case you're like us and have a bedliner application in your tub or just want to cover up any marring in the paint from the original plate.
mattsb2000 has also said he's going to work on a version of this plate for folks with the 4 speed shifter. I'm sending him my 4 speed shifter plate to use.
After discussing the setup of the 4 speed shifter with mattsb2000 and the other R&Der, we figure it would be best for this version of the lockout plate to have 2 lock points. One on the Park position to prevent shifting the truck into gear and one at an in gear position. Naturally if the lever is locked in the Park position, this will allow the truck to start but would prevent the truck from being shifted into gear. Locking the shifter in this position would probaly best be used with other theft deterrents such as a keyed ignition, battery lockout, or IP cutoff switch. The in gear lockout position would prevent the truck from being started but would, obviously, negate being able to take advantage of the Park position on the 4L80E.
For ease of assembly of the 4 speed plates, mattsb2000 suggested one long lockout tab with two holes drilled. He said it could be left blank to allow the user to drill them where desired or they could come pre-drilled.
The plan is to keep the 4 speed plate true to size as it is already oversized compared to the 3 speed.
So, if you folks have any input on on either the 3 or 4 speed plate, feel free to offer up your thoughts as nothing is finalized.
If anyone has any questions feel free to ask!
I received one of the plates and did the install on my truck last week. Mine was a version he designed for folks who have installed rivnuts for their shift assemblies. It has holes to allow reuse of the shifter assembly bolts, unlike the one in his original post which has the threaded studs.
Installation is super easy, moreso if you've already installed the rivnuts. Whether you've already installed or plan to install rivnuts will determine which version of the plate you'd need. I highly recommend installing rivnuts and going with the rivnut version for ease of future maintenance.
This plate replaces the entire top plate on the shifter. On the 3 speed shifter, this means undoing 3 mounting bolts. You, of course, will need to remove the entire shift assembly from your truck before beginning this. If you don't know how to do this, please see TM 9-2320-280-20-2, section 5-7, page 589/954.
Since you're going to be disassembling the shifter, I'd recommend picking up a new sweep gasket/shifter seal (12338456/3040-01-249-1435) and new boot (5584110/2520-01-210-3506) at a minimum and, if you need it a new transmission shift indicator (12338439/2540-01-184-5502) and a transfer case indicator plate (12338433/9905-01-207-6304) as well.
The lockout plate is hot rolled steel and is ready, as is, for the paint of your choice. I used plain old flat black rattlecan. It's also a good time to give your shifter shafts a shot of paint to clean them up.
Removal of the original plate and installation of the new plate requires removal of the shift knobs on both shafts. Please note, these are secured with red Loctite. If they give you trouble coming off, be careful not to overtoqrue the shafts as it can break/bend the pivot shaft they both attach to, as the other R&Der found out!
While you have the transmission knob off, this is a good opportunity to clean the decades of grime and grit out of the detent latching mechanism and then lubricate it. Please don't use plain WD-40 to lubricate it unless you like brown gum buildup after a while! Any quality lubricant should suffice.
Once you've got the knobs off, just undo the previously mentioned plate mounting bolts taking care not to lose some washers that are between the plate and assembly, besides the ones on the top and bottom. See TM 9-2320-280-24P-1, Figure 99, page 305/968 for a diagram of the shift assembly and where the washers go.
After you've got the original plate off, install your new parts, and then just slide the new plate on and secure. Couldn't be any easier!
One thing the other R&Der and I noticed is that the plate seems slightly undersized. We've let mattsb2000 know and he's planning on making them slightly oversized in case you're like us and have a bedliner application in your tub or just want to cover up any marring in the paint from the original plate.
mattsb2000 has also said he's going to work on a version of this plate for folks with the 4 speed shifter. I'm sending him my 4 speed shifter plate to use.
After discussing the setup of the 4 speed shifter with mattsb2000 and the other R&Der, we figure it would be best for this version of the lockout plate to have 2 lock points. One on the Park position to prevent shifting the truck into gear and one at an in gear position. Naturally if the lever is locked in the Park position, this will allow the truck to start but would prevent the truck from being shifted into gear. Locking the shifter in this position would probaly best be used with other theft deterrents such as a keyed ignition, battery lockout, or IP cutoff switch. The in gear lockout position would prevent the truck from being started but would, obviously, negate being able to take advantage of the Park position on the 4L80E.
For ease of assembly of the 4 speed plates, mattsb2000 suggested one long lockout tab with two holes drilled. He said it could be left blank to allow the user to drill them where desired or they could come pre-drilled.
The plan is to keep the 4 speed plate true to size as it is already oversized compared to the 3 speed.
So, if you folks have any input on on either the 3 or 4 speed plate, feel free to offer up your thoughts as nothing is finalized.
If anyone has any questions feel free to ask!
Last edited:
desmodromic
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Looks like a clean product and definite better than the annoying steering lock cable. I'd be in for a couple 4spd and a couple 3spd plates if the OP does a run.