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Intercooler?

Kohburn

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Nothing says "I know what I'm talking about" like name calling. A low post count may make someone a noob on a particular forum, it does not however negate their knowledge. Just the same a high post count on a forum does not make someone an expert on a subject. I may be new to SS but I have plenty of experience building boosted cars and all the finer details of staring at the sensor readouts in realtime for burning custom ECU proms.

Since the SCFM through the intake and the intercooler will be the same the only really important variables are the surface area and delta T. A typical intercooler install will drop the charge temp up to 100*.

If you have data showing a charge temp increase from just passing through the intake manifold approaching that then I'd love to see it, especially since pre-intercooler charge temps can be around 200* on longer pulls.
 

cranetruck

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ok noobs.. I am wrong. sorry. CT did not do testing on air temp movements in the intake manifold a bunch of years ago.....
All I did was to verify that the coolant surrounding the intake manifold did indeed cool the air from the intake manifold adapter (turbo outlet).
IIRC, at some 10 psi of boost the temp of the air dropped about 20 degrees to around 200°F.
The design intent of the coolant jacketed intake manifold was to warm the air under arctic conditions (arctic coolant heater used before starting the engine).
I drilled and installed a thermocouple probe at the #6 cylinder area of the manifold avoiding the double walled coolant filled section using a spare manifold as a guide.
 

G_I_JOE

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I am not to knowledgeable on the deisel but on my Toyota Supra turbo, it has coolant lines through the intake to keep tempatures down. You should not need more boost even with the extra tubing, there are rear mounted turbo kits for mustangs and vettes with little to no turbo lag. this is a good thread keep it going.
 

Kohburn

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I am not to knowledgeable on the deisel but on my Toyota Supra turbo, it has coolant lines through the intake to keep tempatures down. You should not need more boost even with the extra tubing, there are rear mounted turbo kits for mustangs and vettes with little to no turbo lag. this is a good thread keep it going.
on gasoline engines the coolant lines through the throttle body and intake are for warming the air rather than cooling it. Since the fuel is injected into the air stream before entering the combustion chamber the air temp needs to be warm enough for proper atomization. It may have some cooling effect on turbocharged and supercharged engines as CT's data shows for the diesel.

intercoolers are relatively cheap compared to quality turbos, otherwise I would say to swap in a more efficient turbocharger as that alone can drop the charge temperature a lot. So can ceramic coating the inside of the exhaust and compressor housings (reduces heat transfer from the exhaust to the intake air).

since people report that the D turbo has more top end and the C has more low end I would asume that each one is making peak boost in those ranges. Another modern turbocharger mapped to provide that much throughout the powerband would be a significant improvement in drivability, you can always slightly oversize it and plumb in an external wastegate to prevent overboosting.
 

saturnshadow

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I can't see an air to air working well, not enough movement of air though the IC. I would like to see a test with a Air to water because you would put a electric fan on the heat exchanger. It would be cool if it helped enough to run a few more psi with lower EGTs
Talking about modern turbos I would like to see what a holset hx40 would do on a deuce.
 

G_I_JOE

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on gasoline engines the coolant lines through the throttle body and intake are for warming the air rather than cooling it.

I must politly disagree. Maybe on a non turbo motor for emisions purposes you would want to warm the intake, But a turbo motor gets HOT. Maybe its just the way I drive It:twisted: just my2cents
 

saturnshadow

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Yep read that. the setup i have is for a 1000+hp race car so i figure it should work. also i would run the heat exchanger behind the cab with a duct and a large fan.
 
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