Joined the club with an 18,000lb paperweight this week.

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themeec

Member
41
11
8
Location
Boise, ID
First of all, hats off to you guys for existing, definitely would have had a rough time without the data goldmine that is this forum.

But to cut to the chase, I'm now the owner-in-waiting of a 1997 BAE Systems M1078. Non-runner with 2007 miles on it, so curious to see what got blown up in that short of a time period, but not too shabby from a visual standpoint. Looking forward to lugging this thing home, and seeing what ails this old beast.

For now, time to join the ranks of those waiting for their EUC ...

1836974_6002_159_0001.jpg1836974_6002_161_0001.jpg1836974_6003_3359_0001.jpg
 
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Reworked LMTV

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
711
68
28
Location
TN
Welcome ! There's no better place to put your time and effort. I call this my last big project.
 

NDT

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
7,531
92
48
Location
Camp Wood/LC, TX
EUC? when did that start for FMTVs? Couple of data points, your truck likely went through a rebuild given the upgraded marker lights and front panel. The miles shown are since a new speedo was installed, not actual.
 

themeec

Member
41
11
8
Location
Boise, ID
EUC? when did that start for FMTVs? Couple of data points, your truck likely went through a rebuild given the upgraded marker lights and front panel. The miles shown are since a new speedo was installed, not actual.
Unsure on the EUC, was simply part of the required process when checking out my final invoice. Good to know on the rebuild, that definitely makes more sense. Just did a quick bit of digging on the subject of rebuilt LMTV's, was this the process you're describing? https://alu.army.mil/alog/issues/sepoct05/resetfmtv.html
 
202
0
16
Location
Fallon, NV
Very nice rig - not only the upgrade lights, but also a nice newer-style grill in the front.
I can see one reason it's not a runner: the rear drive shaft disassembled in the cab. First thing I'd find a good truck driveline shop and take the shaft down for rebuild. Probably do the front as well at the same time.
Then inspect the engine for missing parts, like alternator nuts and bolts, and the bolts for the bracket between the air compressor and the power steering pump. That was severely messed up on my truck, but got noticed and fixed in short order.
Welcome, and enjoy!
 

themeec

Member
41
11
8
Location
Boise, ID
Very nice rig - not only the upgrade lights, but also a nice newer-style grill in the front.
I can see one reason it's not a runner: the rear drive shaft disassembled in the cab. First thing I'd find a good truck driveline shop and take the shaft down for rebuild. Probably do the front as well at the same time.
Then inspect the engine for missing parts, like alternator nuts and bolts, and the bolts for the bracket between the air compressor and the power steering pump. That was severely messed up on my truck, but got noticed and fixed in short order.
Welcome, and enjoy!
Yeah, at first when I was going through the listing, I saw the part about the drive shafts being removed ... fancy my surprise when the next photo showed them in the front seats (un-bent if you can believe to too)! One of the reasons I decided to go for it, that, and it's only about a day's drive from me. Makes shipping cheap and easy.

I'm guessing the fun lies under the cab, so will see how it pans out. I've been budgeting for transmission, engine and drivetrain goodies, in case there's something disastrous lurking.
 
296
14
18
Location
Corpus Christi Texas
Yeah, at first when I was going through the listing, I saw the part about the drive shafts being removed ... fancy my surprise when the next photo showed them in the front seats (un-bent if you can believe to too)! One of the reasons I decided to go for it, that, and it's only about a day's drive from me. Makes shipping cheap and easy.

I'm guessing the fun lies under the cab, so will see how it pans out. I've been budgeting for transmission, engine and drivetrain goodies, in case there's something disastrous lurking.
Shaft removal is SOP for a flat tow via tow bar.

I was watching that truck just for run and it was *super* clean.

Just work your way thru the TM troubleshooting guide and I be you find the issue asap...
 

themeec

Member
41
11
8
Location
Boise, ID
Shaft removal is SOP for a flat tow via tow bar.
I was watching that truck just for run and it was *super* clean.
Just work your way thru the TM troubleshooting guide and I be you find the issue asap...
Yeah, was mostly happy to see the shafts were still with the truck, and not pilfered. Speaking of, the amount of bits and pieces still on the truck was impressive, as you say, so I'm definitely happy to have snagged this one.
 

FloridaAKM

Active member
2,509
20
38
Location
Gainesville, Florida
Good looking truck you have waiting for the EUC to clear. Uncle Sugar seems to move the EUC requirement all around different equipment & items as he sees fit. There is no rhyme or reason, just what shows up as a "Q" demil, or the spinner lands on this week.

Just be patient & your new to you truck will be home in the driveway before you know it, even though it seems like two lifetimes.
 

AllenF

New member
21
1
3
Location
Riverside, Ca
Nah, just another member in the ranks of the EUC Waiting Army. 3 months and nary a flicker. Hoping to see something this fall, at least ... fingers crossed!
Have you got your truck yet? I bought one on 9/11/2019. I was told 8-12 weeks for EUC to clear or reject me. If you are still waiting I am bummed as I would like to move along with the project.
 

themeec

Member
41
11
8
Location
Boise, ID
Have you got your truck yet? I bought one on 9/11/2019. I was told 8-12 weeks for EUC to clear or reject me. If you are still waiting I am bummed as I would like to move along with the project.
I am actually! Finally got the EUC approved earlier this week, and have transport arranged for next week. Looking forward to having the thing in hand finally ... only 15+ weeks of waiting, haha.
 

AllenF

New member
21
1
3
Location
Riverside, Ca
themeec,
If you don't mind my asking where is your LMTV coming from and who is bringing it to you? Did you go through Veritread? (SP)
care to share the distance to deliver and the cost?
Have you looked into registration? Here in California it is a no go. So I am good with that as I will be moving out of state anyways. Just means I can not drive it here until I am ready to leave. Then I will reg it in the state I am moving to.
 

themeec

Member
41
11
8
Location
Boise, ID
themeec,
If you don't mind my asking where is your LMTV coming from and who is bringing it to you? Did you go through Veritread? (SP)
care to share the distance to deliver and the cost?
Have you looked into registration? Here in California it is a no go. So I am good with that as I will be moving out of state anyways. Just means I can not drive it here until I am ready to leave. Then I will reg it in the state I am moving to.
Here's what I have so far:
Location - Trucking vehicle from Draper, UT
Shipping - Didn't like trying to use Veritread's service, so got a quote via Fr8star
Distance - Only about 356 miles
Cost - So far $880 + Wreckers for winch-on/winch-off service on both ends @ Around $130-230/hr (final cost remains to be seen what time the wrecker service has to put in)
Registration - About $84/yr because it's not heavy enough to qualify for commercial (**** yeah Idaho)

As far as experience on this whole thing, they're slated to pick it up tomorrow, so I'll have to report back on the quality of the whole operation then.
 
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Suprman

Active member
Supporting Vendor
6,612
21
38
Location
Stratford/Connecticut
If the brakes work you can usually remove one of the air drain valves and screw in a regular air tool nipple and air up with a compressor and you will have brakes. You can pull it off the trailer with another vehicle and some straps. If the brakes are caged and you air it up and release the brakes the caging bolts will loosen up you can usually take them out easily if not by hand. Just make sure the truck is well chocked or still chained up when doing this. Then you can have someone look in the caging bolt holes with a light and see the can move as you step on the pedal.
 

themeec

Member
41
11
8
Location
Boise, ID
If the brakes work you can usually remove one of the air drain valves and screw in a regular air tool nipple and air up with a compressor and you will have brakes. You can pull it off the trailer with another vehicle and some straps.
I may very well have to move it again while it's inoperable, so this is great info. At this point, I'm going to see how well these cats I've carefully herded together do on their own ...
 
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