Joined the club with an 18,000lb paperweight this week.

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Suprman

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You can air it up with the front red gladhand also. But it will release the brakes regardless of dash valve position. The foot pedal will still function though.
 

AllenF

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themeec
Thanks for the numbers. Let us know how it works out and what issues you have along the way if any.
Sounds like a new thread on what it takes to bring a dead one back to life:)
 

AllenF

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So what's next? I know for you it is ....where should I start?
When and if I get mine I think it will be to change all fluids and filters after I swap out the hand pump so I can lift the cab.
The auction report says it would not lift so that is my first order of business. Actually I think I will pressure wash it first then fix the cab lift. Always better to have a clean machine to work on:) enjoy your new toy/hobby
 

Reworked LMTV

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Point finger at any part that has plastic or rubber. Start there....

So what's next? I know for you it is ....where should I start?
When and if I get mine I think it will be to change all fluids and filters after I swap out the hand pump so I can lift the cab.
The auction report says it would not lift so that is my first order of business. Actually I think I will pressure wash it first then fix the cab lift. Always better to have a clean machine to work on:) enjoy your new toy/hobby
 

themeec

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Boise, ID
Going pretty well so far. Battery cover was listed as missing ... turned up sitting in the back of the cargo bed.
IMG_2573.jpg

Inspection stated cab couldn't be raised. Gave the manual lift the 'ol college try and cab went right up no problems. Left it up for a bit, but no sign of leaks anywhere.
IMG_2569.jpg

Found the paperwork in the door, stating the original TI was for no start due to bad fuel + plugged fuel filter. Makes sense, the diesel in the tank looks like black coffee. Will get started on draining that, and looks like rest of the fluids need attended to.
 

Reworked LMTV

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Be sure to check all of the battery cables closely. Flip them over. Mine had a LOT of hidden damage.

Going pretty well so far. Battery cover was listed as missing ... turned up sitting in the back of the cargo bed.
View attachment 780675

Inspection stated cab couldn't be raised. Gave the manual lift the 'ol college try and cab went right up no problems. Left it up for a bit, but no sign of leaks anywhere.
View attachment 780677

Found the paperwork in the door, stating the original TI was for no start due to bad fuel + plugged fuel filter. Makes sense, the diesel in the tank looks like black coffee. Will get started on draining that, and looks like rest of the fluids need attended to.
 

themeec

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Boise, ID
Be sure to check all of the battery cables closely. Flip them over. Mine had a LOT of hidden damage.
Will do, I haven't gotten a chance to test the batteries yet, so I can do that in tandem. Side note, given the fuel is all sludged up, is there anything else I should check for? Is that strictly age-related, or is there contamination/overflow from another system I should check on?
 

Suprman

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If the tank is full of crap drain it. Take the feed line from the fuel separator off and blow it all back into the tank. I would replace the primary filter its not expensive.
 

themeec

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If the tank is full of crap drain it. Take the feed line from the fuel separator off and blow it all back into the tank. I would replace the primary filter its not expensive.
Yeah, filter was listed as plugged in the TI as well, so tracking one of those down currently. Just wanted to make sure that when I put everything in fresh, it's going to stay that way.
 

coachgeo

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when you replace your fuel filters.... fill them with Lubra Molly Diesel Purge. This is an excellent cleaner.. but most importantly it has a good cetane value and will start the engine as good or better than starting on normal diesel. Some of the other cleaners will not do that.... fine for most circumstances cause residual diesel in the lines etc. blend in and do the starting mostly. ... but in your case IMHO your better off firing right off the Lubra Molly.
 

themeec

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Boise, ID
Got most of the fluids handled by now. Fuel and engine oil all drained and flushed (Yes, coachgeo got a can of Liqui-Moly purge, per your suggestion, just waiting on popping the filter on when I have fresh fuel ready). Batteries seem to be holding their fresh charge as well. Was going to move onto the transmission, but I need to get a chuck for the square socket on the drain plugs. TM's just list a "Tool Kit, General Mechanics" in the appendix, so was wondering if anyone knew the specific item I'm after?

Side note, drained diesel came out a medium brown color (forgot to take a pic today). Oil came out like old molasses (pic below). Are they related, and should I check something upstream in the system, or just par for the course? Oil makes sense, mostly just using the condition of the fuel as a gauge.
IMG_2592.jpg
 
Last edited:

coachgeo

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North of Cincy OH
hmm.. with brown fuel... you might consider taking your fuel line off the engine, blowing back down it with air to push old fuel out of it. Same with return line. On fuel tank.... put 5 gallons* or so in tank again and re flush to get out the stuff you just blew back into it??* especially if you can find something to brush along the bottom of the tank to stir it up good as you drain it . Be careful of fuel pickup area

on engine... you could consider the same as tank..... fill with diesel then flush it..... put in super cheap engine oil... after engine runs..... flush and replace with good oil.

* the not nasty oil and fuel you first pulled out...... take to recycler.... but the newer stuff used for flushing mentioned above you should be able to recycle it a bit at a time into your fuel tank. Esp. if you filter it thru a t-shirt or something similar
 

coachgeo

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refill tranny with ATF instead of engine oil. Might fill it with real cheap stuff then flush it..... then put in the good stuff. Search threads in here for recommended ATF.
 

themeec

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Okey dokey. Got fluids handled, lines checked, and sitting pretty with a fresh batch of engine oil, and a generous helping of new diesel sitting in the tank.

Put the batteries back on after charging them to see if they'd hold, and the results weren't super, they only registered about 80% after letting them sit off the charger for a while. But put them back on the truck anyway, and it cranked with absolutely zero issues.

At the time of cranking the starter, I observed the following:
- Great oil pressure
- Voltage in the yellow, but starter ran strong*
- Fuel needle dipped, assuming due to starting draw
- Moderate air pressure (it's been losing a little while sitting)
- Trans in Neutral

*The starter actually worked even when I got it, but I didn't want to run it much with an unknown fluids situation (e.g. check for mechanical damage evidence in the old fluids)

Following had been performed already:
- Engine oil drained and replaced
- Fuel drained and replaced
- Fuel lines cleared
- Fuel filter replaced
- Oil filter replaced
- Coolant checked, full, no leaks
- Wiring harnesses to the cab checked
- Water/Fuel separator checked, and primer checked to be functional

However, aside from some wafts of white smoke early on, it didn't seem to want to start. After a few more cycles, and double-checking the lines to make sure fuel was flowing in the system, I dug into the TMs a bit. Been checking from the fuel shutoff solenoid on up at the moment.

Here's where I've gotten:
- Fuel shutoff solenoid voltage normal
- K19 relay voltage normal (Start Inhibit switch)

One of the steps recommended replacing the Start Inhibit switch, so just to confirm (plus since I'd just been cleaning/re-seating a bunch of fuses), I went to try and crank the engine again. This time, the engine would not crank. Voltage was still in the yellow (as observed before), but not a flicker.

Questions so far:
- How to test if the shutoff solenoid is faulty?
- Would weak batteries affect the shutoff's function, or is there a minimum voltage they no longer actuate at?
- Have I goobered something along the way that's causing it to not turn over?
 
208
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Location
Fallon, NV
All lots of good preventative maintenance. Now, stupid question: Did you bleed the fuel system after replacing the lines and filters? There's a bolt on the top of the fuel filter housing (-24P, Figure 33, Part 2) that you should loosen nearly completely when pumping the primer bulb on top of the water separator. Pump the bulb until good fuel flow comes out of the bolt, then close the bolt. That'll get nearly all of the air from the fuel system - the only remaining trapped air would be from the bolt (after the fuel filter) through the primary pump to the injectors. Means the motor needs much less cranking to refill empty lines.

If you've already done that, please ignore the above and I'll exit Stage Left...

Okey dokey. Got fluids handled, lines checked, and sitting pretty with a fresh batch of engine oil, and a generous helping of new diesel sitting in the tank.

Put the batteries back on after charging them to see if they'd hold, and the results weren't super, they only registered about 80% after letting them sit off the charger for a while. But put them back on the truck anyway, and it cranked with absolutely zero issues.

At the time of cranking the starter, I observed the following:
- Great oil pressure
- Voltage in the yellow, but starter ran strong*
- Fuel needle dipped, assuming due to starting draw
- Moderate air pressure (it's been losing a little while sitting)
- Trans in Neutral

*The starter actually worked even when I got it, but I didn't want to run it much with an unknown fluids situation (e.g. check for mechanical damage evidence in the old fluids)

Following had been performed already:
- Engine oil drained and replaced
- Fuel drained and replaced
- Fuel lines cleared
- Fuel filter replaced
- Oil filter replaced
- Coolant checked, full, no leaks
- Wiring harnesses to the cab checked
- Water/Fuel separator checked, and primer checked to be functional

However, aside from some wafts of white smoke early on, it didn't seem to want to start. After a few more cycles, and double-checking the lines to make sure fuel was flowing in the system, I dug into the TMs a bit. Been checking from the fuel shutoff solenoid on up at the moment.

Here's where I've gotten:
- Fuel shutoff solenoid voltage normal
- K19 relay voltage normal (Start Inhibit switch)

One of the steps recommended replacing the Start Inhibit switch, so just to confirm (plus since I'd just been cleaning/re-seating a bunch of fuses), I went to try and crank the engine again. This time, the engine would not crank. Voltage was still in the yellow (as observed before), but not a flicker.

Questions so far:
- How to test if the shutoff solenoid is faulty?
- Would weak batteries affect the shutoff's function, or is there a minimum voltage they no longer actuate at?
- Have I goobered something along the way that's causing it to not turn over?
 

themeec

Member
52
22
8
Location
Boise, ID
There's a bolt on the top of the fuel filter housing (-24P, Figure 33, Part 2) that you should loosen nearly completely when pumping the primer bulb on top of the water separator.
Hmm, after running some compressed air through the lines back into the tank, I disconnected the lines again on the engine head, and hit the primer until I got fuel out of there (as you mention, to clear the air). Is there a difference between this, and checking the bolt you mention on the filter housing?
 
208
8
18
Location
Fallon, NV
Opening a connection on the engine head? Should work, as you said you got fuel out when using the primer bulb. Same as pulling the bolt on the big filter mount. The filter mount bolt allows complete filling of the filters, there still should be fuel remaining in the high pressure pump.
Maybe there's a pinhole leak in one of the fuel lines and the pump is sucking air from the pinhole?

Hmm, after running some compressed air through the lines back into the tank, I disconnected the lines again on the engine head, and hit the primer until I got fuel out of there (as you mention, to clear the air). Is there a difference between this, and checking the bolt you mention on the filter housing?
 

coachgeo

Well-known member
3,001
139
63
Location
North of Cincy OH
one way to test for pinhole leaks and similar is to put a temporary electrical fuel pump as close to tank as you can. You wont need a high dollar diesel one. Just a cheap petrol will do. With this your truck basically will have no vacuum anywhere but that short bit of line between pump and tank.

diagnosis
One.... if you have an air leak pin hole up north of the pump.... at least you can drive. If you still can't get enough fuel your issue is bigger
Two..... leak is so small you might have to drive a while before you can finally see it weeping fuel anyway.
Three... with pump one can use some UV fuel system leak detector and a UV light.... to find the actual leak.
 
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