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So what's next? I know for you it is ....where should I start?
When and if I get mine I think it will be to change all fluids and filters after I swap out the hand pump so I can lift the cab.
The auction report says it would not lift so that is my first order of business. Actually I think I will pressure wash it first then fix the cab lift. Always better to have a clean machine to work on enjoy your new toy/hobby
Going pretty well so far. Battery cover was listed as missing ... turned up sitting in the back of the cargo bed.
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Inspection stated cab couldn't be raised. Gave the manual lift the 'ol college try and cab went right up no problems. Left it up for a bit, but no sign of leaks anywhere.
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Found the paperwork in the door, stating the original TI was for no start due to bad fuel + plugged fuel filter. Makes sense, the diesel in the tank looks like black coffee. Will get started on draining that, and looks like rest of the fluids need attended to.
Will do, I haven't gotten a chance to test the batteries yet, so I can do that in tandem. Side note, given the fuel is all sludged up, is there anything else I should check for? Is that strictly age-related, or is there contamination/overflow from another system I should check on?Be sure to check all of the battery cables closely. Flip them over. Mine had a LOT of hidden damage.
Yeah, filter was listed as plugged in the TI as well, so tracking one of those down currently. Just wanted to make sure that when I put everything in fresh, it's going to stay that way.If the tank is full of crap drain it. Take the feed line from the fuel separator off and blow it all back into the tank. I would replace the primary filter its not expensive.
Okey dokey. Got fluids handled, lines checked, and sitting pretty with a fresh batch of engine oil, and a generous helping of new diesel sitting in the tank.
Put the batteries back on after charging them to see if they'd hold, and the results weren't super, they only registered about 80% after letting them sit off the charger for a while. But put them back on the truck anyway, and it cranked with absolutely zero issues.
At the time of cranking the starter, I observed the following:
- Great oil pressure
- Voltage in the yellow, but starter ran strong*
- Fuel needle dipped, assuming due to starting draw
- Moderate air pressure (it's been losing a little while sitting)
- Trans in Neutral
*The starter actually worked even when I got it, but I didn't want to run it much with an unknown fluids situation (e.g. check for mechanical damage evidence in the old fluids)
Following had been performed already:
- Engine oil drained and replaced
- Fuel drained and replaced
- Fuel lines cleared
- Fuel filter replaced
- Oil filter replaced
- Coolant checked, full, no leaks
- Wiring harnesses to the cab checked
- Water/Fuel separator checked, and primer checked to be functional
However, aside from some wafts of white smoke early on, it didn't seem to want to start. After a few more cycles, and double-checking the lines to make sure fuel was flowing in the system, I dug into the TMs a bit. Been checking from the fuel shutoff solenoid on up at the moment.
Here's where I've gotten:
- Fuel shutoff solenoid voltage normal
- K19 relay voltage normal (Start Inhibit switch)
One of the steps recommended replacing the Start Inhibit switch, so just to confirm (plus since I'd just been cleaning/re-seating a bunch of fuses), I went to try and crank the engine again. This time, the engine would not crank. Voltage was still in the yellow (as observed before), but not a flicker.
Questions so far:
- How to test if the shutoff solenoid is faulty?
- Would weak batteries affect the shutoff's function, or is there a minimum voltage they no longer actuate at?
- Have I goobered something along the way that's causing it to not turn over?
Hmm, after running some compressed air through the lines back into the tank, I disconnected the lines again on the engine head, and hit the primer until I got fuel out of there (as you mention, to clear the air). Is there a difference between this, and checking the bolt you mention on the filter housing?There's a bolt on the top of the fuel filter housing (-24P, Figure 33, Part 2) that you should loosen nearly completely when pumping the primer bulb on top of the water separator.
Hmm, after running some compressed air through the lines back into the tank, I disconnected the lines again on the engine head, and hit the primer until I got fuel out of there (as you mention, to clear the air). Is there a difference between this, and checking the bolt you mention on the filter housing?
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