Just did the Doghead conversion… but

[roveroverme]

That blue wire goes down to the starter solenoid, right? maybe there is a break in it??? I gotta check that

 

[cucvrus]

Please do not take this as argumentative.

I know that I have had a couple of the stock relays fail in this manner. Along with many other people. A fellow member posted this picture. I guess you are just a lucky son of a gun to have never had a failure. Yes there are thousands of the originals out there and a few failures. Maybe it is like the current GM ignition switches. Not all of them have failed.

Also there are many ways to "fix" the issue. The DH Relay modification is just one way.

View attachment 534153

I understand that part. But I am asking why we are not replacing the defective relay as a fix to the failure. I have had Ford trucks do the same thing and they have the same type of relay/solenoid. They would crank and burn them selves out until you got under the hood and disconnected the batteries. Please I am having friendly debate. I had a guy sell me his M1008 because a US quarter (coin) fell down in the dash and shorted across a solenoid replacement similar to what you are showing and burn the truck up while he was in the house. I found the quarter with the melted part while I was stripping the dash out. I don't have pictures. Never thought of it. I did wonder what the Ford solenoid was doing under the dash of a CUCV.

 

[cucvrus]

That blue wire goes down to the starter solenoid, right? maybe there is a break in it??? I gotta check that

I thought the purple wire went to the solenoid.

 

[doghead]

But I am asking why we are not replacing the defective relay as a fix to the failure.

We are replacing the relay.

With one that cannot fail as the oem does.


What most call a "Ford" relay, has the big terminals 180 degrees apart. How could a quarter short between those?


It is best to protect all the uncovered connections with something non conductive. Not needed, but a good idea.

Please do not hijack this thread anymore. if you want to educate yourself on this topic, read all the threads, and stickies them post your own thread with questions or ideas.

 

[roveroverme]

Yes, We have replaced the Relay. But that is not the issue right now. My truck isn't starting and that I am worried about not which relay should be better.

I'll test the starter solenoid wire for continuity

 

[doghead]

As has been stated before, schematics are in the back of the -20 and -30 TMs. Relieve all doubt by using them.

Simple terms, 2 big wires go on the 2 big studs. The 2 small wires go on the 2 small studs.

It makes no difference which side any of them are on.

 

[doghead]

I have a blue wire and what looks brown or pink (maybe???) on one post

Explain this again.

There should only be one wire on each stud/terminal of the under dash relay.

 

[roveroverme]

is this the Pink Wire?
There is no continuity down to the solenoid on it.

 

[roveroverme]

Explain this again.

There should only be one wire on each stud/terminal of the under dash relay.

was looking at the wrong wiring post. I've edited it

 

[roveroverme]

As has been stated before, schematics are in the back of the -20 and -30 TMs. Relieve all doubt by using them.

Simple terms, 2 big wires go on the 2 big studs. The 2 small wires go on the 2 small studs.

It makes no difference which side any of them are on.

I am not talking about the Relay…
Have you seen that I said the relay seems to work.
My starter doesn't!
I am trying to fix the problem , which doesn't seem to be the relay. Since when I jump it, the starter still won't turn over.

 

[doghead]

You should not have an issue with any of those wires under the dash, if you did not touch them before this issue occurred.

How many battery terminals did you remove before doing the relay modification? Which one/ones?

How are the wires on your starter connected? Have you changed any of them?

If you remove the small purple wire at the starter solenoid, you can check the voltage there when you turn the key to start. With it disconnect, and key in the start position you should see 24Volts

 

[cpf240]

DH makes a good point about disconnecting the batteries before doing this conversion. It is *very* easy to short out that 24v wire and burn out one or more fusible links.

I think it would be a good idea to get a voltmeter and start testing connections on the relay, both key off and key in crank position. There is not enough data to determine where the problem lies.

 

[roveroverme]

I unhooked all battery terminals from both pos.
Then I didn't jumper any wires before the truck wouldn't start (there was no need to do that)
Oh and btw I did re connect the batteries once the relay was installed.

I did something even safer and disconnected the pink wire from the block and ran a test wire with alligator clips down to the starter solenoid connector and then I connected the other side
to my voltmeter and the other to the top terminal of the pink wire… there was no continuity . meaning that the wire is probably shot.

I can also try it your way, but I rather not mess with current , unless I have to.

 

[roveroverme]

DH makes a good point about disconnecting the batteries before doing this conversion. It is *very* easy to short out that 24v wire and burn out one or more fusible links.

I think it would be a good idea to get a voltmeter and start testing connections on the relay, both key off and key in crank position. There is not enough data to determine where the problem lies.

as Per the instructions on how to do the relay, I DISCONNECTED THE BATTERIES FIRST!
I never work on anything on the truck or any vehicle without disconnecting the battery- that's just common sense. and that's why I didn't mention it.

Oh and I also tested the relay first before I Jumped the posts, I may have mentioned that earlier in the thread… maybe not

 

[doghead]

I unhooked all battery terminals from both pos.

I do not understand this.

You should have removed both negative terminals. That's 2 wires.

Why are you doing anything with that pink wire? Who said to test it.

 

[roveroverme]

I do not understand this.

You should have removed both negative terminals. That's 2 wires.

Why are you doing anything with that pink wire? Who said to test it.

Because MY starter does not start.

I have learned to remove the pos terminals when working on the car. I think it's the same different thing, really. Battery wires are disconnected

 

[doghead]

So, you tested the relay?

And there was 24 volts on the big purple wire with the key in the start position? Was the starter connected when you did this test?

As I said before, pull the purple wire off the starter and test for voltage again.

With the key off, and the wire removed from the starter solenoid, test for continuity between the purple wire and ground.

Also, with the purple wire removed from the starter, if you jump 24 volts to the terminal that the purple wire was on, will the starter crank?

 

[doghead]

You always(negative ground vehicle) remove the ground first.

 

[doghead]

Because MY starter does not start

Back up and slow down here. I asked you which wires you disconnected because you posted that you disconnected them when you changed the relay.

Now you say you did it because it does not start. That is conflicting info.


You need to slow down and state the facts as we ask for info.

It may be time to start over 100%.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Back up and slow down here. ...You need to slow down and state the facts as we ask for info.

Hey, roverme, just an observatkion, which I hope will be helpful. I've noticed you tend to jump around a lot. Often folks will ask a question, and you go on to the next thing without answering it. For example, Warthog asked some specifics about that "strap", or whatever it is:

My first thought is that it is the noise suppressor that goes between the 24v Positive terminal block and the the Negative terminal block behind the rear battery.
If it is then it is not needed unless you are running the military radios. But I could be wrong. 4" makes it too long.

What type of material is it? Is it braided wire? Is that a rubber covering? Is it flat?

And your next response is this:

If the Relay is bad, shouldn't it start when I bypass the two large posts?
I just took this piece out that was between the two posts and was going to ask what it is.
So that isn't a fusible link or so? just a noise surpressor? I'll put it back then

See? You never answered his questions about the strap. Instead, you are running on ahead.

This is why doghead is asking you to slow down. People are trying to help, but it's difficult when you:

1. Don't answer questions, or don't answer them fully.
2. Leave out important info.
3. Jump ahead when people are trying to walk you through a problem.

I'm not dogging on you - just trying to help you get the help you need.