Just drove my new m35a2 home

[SteveKuhn]

The way I taught my wife (aka Soldier B from my perspective - Soldier A from hers) was to move the lower right handle counter clockwise from 5 o'clock to 4 and hold, then switch the top one from 12 to the right to either 1 or 2 o'clock depending on what she wanted turned on (see diagram.) Then release the lower right.

Hope that's all it is. It can be confusing until you get the drift of how it works.

If it's not, the TMs have a detailed troubleshooting procedure. I just got done working through those along with some advice from here.

 

[Gunner0311]

Cpngrats!

Looks like a good purchase for $1800 to me.

You will get the lights figured out.

Enjoy your new toy!

 

[Dieselking22]

Well ive been working on my truck this morning for about 3 hours, I took the switch apart and found out the top lever plastic was striped out inside so i repaired it with marine tech. put it all back together and used the unlocker and still no light... So i looked at the wiring behind going into the cannon connector and 2 wires were broke and i tried to repair them with butt connectors both wires were hot. 24V. Tried it then still not working i think the wiring is messed up so im trying to look for a new cannon connector and about 2 inches of pigtail to repair it.

If anyone has the cannon plug laying around with some wire left. ill buy it from them.

Heres some pictures of what im talking about since i cant explain stuff good through words haha

 

[SteveKuhn]

I haven't had that connector apart to study but if the wires are soldered inside a hollow tube, you might be able to unsolder the broken wires, pull them out, clear the tube and resolder new ones. Done it lots of times on microphone cables.

How'd you get the switch open?

Thanks.

Steve

 

[fasttruck]

If you have a circut diagram it will tell what pin on the plug that attaches to the back of the switch is hot from the starfter and what wire is the headlight circut. If there is power up to the switch jump the plug and see if anything lights. No power to the switch ? Solve that problem. Other wise switch is bad if jumper lights lights, so replace switch.

 

[hilber]

congratulations on the truck

 

[Dieselking22]

On the back of the switch their is a weather sealer that is white if you get it off there is a screw, unscrew it then the back will come off, after the back comes off, their is 3 screws holding the foward most part on.

I still have a feeling that the wiring to the cannon plug is at fault. Its a lot cheaper than a switch.

Where is a good place for parts for these trucks?

 

[emmado22]

I'd take the cannon plug apart and fix the bad/butt connected wires. Not a fun job, but easier than replacing all the wires going to the plug.

 

[Dieselking22]

I'd take the cannon plug apart and fix the bad/butt connected wires. Not a fun job, but easier than replacing all the wires going to the plug.

How does the cannon plug come apart? Does it take a special tool like some other connectors?

 

[stampy]

Welcome to the addiction! I drove my truck home without lights (it was getting a little dark 15 min from home) then figured it out. Sorry you have a wiring issue. I have only replaced a switch so I couldn't help but if you are ever up around Henderson NC give me a yell. If you bought the truck titled from an individual then yes you got a steal.

 

[SteveKuhn]

While you're working on the connector (and I'd agree w/ Emmado), you might want to put a test light to see if you're getting juice to the switch (like FastTruck said.) Looks like you have the advantage of the numbering tags. If you do replace the connector, don't lose those.

I've attached a blowup of one of the sections of the whole truck schematic that I just used in figuring out what was wrong w/ my stop lights. I put highlights on a couple of obvious spots.

This stuff is all too fresh for comfort. And I agree that the price was more than right.

Steve

 

[emmado22]

No special tools needed. It just unscrews. Some PB blaster might help if it doesnt want to go. If it's really stuck, GENTLY use 2 channel lock pliers to unscrew it.

 

[Dieselking22]

Thanks for the schematic! Thats going to help me,

I'm talking about taking the cannon plug apart not the switch.

 

[Dieselking22]

Welcome to the addiction! I drove my truck home without lights (it was getting a little dark 15 min from home) then figured it out. Sorry you have a wiring issue. I have only replaced a switch so I couldn't help but if you are ever up around Henderson NC give me a yell. If you bought the truck titled from an individual then yes you got a steal.

I got the truck with title for $1800 i say its a pretty good find. Craigslist is where i found it.

If im around henderson ill give you a shout man! we should do a convoy

 

[IROC99]

Nice truck! Congratulations. Just got one myself two months ago.

 

[Dieselking22]

Nice truck! Congratulations. Just got one myself two months ago.

Thanks man! Was there anything wrong with it? How many miles?

 

[MO MV man]

Turn key, drove-it-home Whistler for $1800?
You made out like a bandit on that thing.

Congrats!

 

[SteveKuhn]

I've found that it pays to use Google liberally when you have a question on this stuff. While the answers here are valuable, it sometimes takes a while to get to exactly what you need. And you might have to piece together 4 different posts until you get the combination that will fix your problem.

I Googled "3 lever switch connector" and found this. It should answer at least 2 of your unanswered questions: Connector (28-51 Cannon Plug) For 3 Lever Light Switch, 7716895.

I can't get the picture big enough or clear enough but it looks like the comment I made about unsoldering/resoldering your old one might work. You'd need to ask the dealer if that's the way it's installed that so you'd know what was involved if you bought one. If it is a solder-on, Emmado's comment is really right-on. That's a lot of soldering. 2 would be plenty for me.

There are lots of other dealers on the 'net that probably have them but Google isn't picking them up.

By the looks of things, you'd only get the connector w/ wires w/ a take-off, and I suspect that would ruin the resale of the harness. If that's the case, I wouldn't expect to find one easily. If you do, you'd need the wire markers on it if you wanted to avoid a lot of hassle hooking it up.

Here's an NOS harness and I think I can make out the connectors. You can see that the harness is a helluva lot more valuable than the connector, even used.

Wiring harness front | M35,M35A2 | Military Vehicles For Sale | Military Trucks For Sale | M35 A2 | 5 Ton | M151 A1 A2 | Surplus Parts - TNJ Murray

I got some valuable information and suggestions from SS last week on my stop light problem but I ultimately solved it w/ a known-good 3 lever switch, Google, the TMs, and a lot of troubleshooting patience. Because I wanted to get it behind me, I ordered a turn signal switch that I really didn't need after I did some cleanup that nobody mentioned but that common sense dictated.

Just some friendly advice in trying to help you get this fixed ASAP.


Steve

 

[deathrowdave]

Good Luck and be safe working on up and coming projects !!!!!

 

[Dieselking22]

I've found that it pays to use Google liberally when you have a question on this stuff. While the answers here are valuable, it sometimes takes a while to get to exactly what you need. And you might have to piece together 4 different posts until you get the combination that will fix your problem.

I Googled "3 lever switch connector" and found this. It should answer at least 2 of your unanswered questions: Connector (28-51 Cannon Plug) For 3 Lever Light Switch, 7716895.

I can't get the picture big enough or clear enough but it looks like the comment I made about unsoldering/resoldering your old one might work. You'd need to ask the dealer if that's the way it's installed that so you'd know what was involved if you bought one. If it is a solder-on, Emmado's comment is really right-on. That's a lot of soldering. 2 would be plenty for me.

There are lots of other dealers on the 'net that probably have them but Google isn't picking them up.

By the looks of things, you'd only get the connector w/ wires w/ a take-off, and I suspect that would ruin the resale of the harness. If that's the case, I wouldn't expect to find one easily. If you do, you'd need the wire markers on it if you wanted to avoid a lot of hassle hooking it up.

Here's an NOS harness and I think I can make out the connectors. You can see that the harness is a helluva lot more valuable than the connector, even used.

Wiring harness front | M35,M35A2 | Military Vehicles For Sale | Military Trucks For Sale | M35 A2 | 5 Ton | M151 A1 A2 | Surplus Parts - TNJ Murray

I got some valuable information and suggestions from SS last week on my stop light problem but I ultimately solved it w/ a known-good 3 lever switch, Google, the TMs, and a lot of troubleshooting patience. Because I wanted to get it behind me, I ordered a turn signal switch that I really didn't need after I did some cleanup that nobody mentioned but that common sense dictated.

Just some friendly advice in trying to help you get this fixed ASAP.


Steve

These links will help me out tremendously,Im going to redo the cannon plug first. im just waiting on the weather here in NC to warm up a bit. this weekend seems like its going to be beautiful! Since i dont have a garage to work in

Thanks!