K&N Air filter for the deuce

[mcinfantry]

well ill tell you this. if fuel mpg was better with a k&n the big three would buy them

if performance was that much better same. there is a hp war you know.

the big three pay more in cafe penalties thatn a k&n would cost.....

 

[wallew]

Lee,
No offense, but you are talking about an industry that calculates whether or not a given failure will cost 'X' in lawsuits. As long as it doesn't exceed their ability to make money, a given number of customer deaths and resulting dollar losses via lawsuits are 'acceptable'.

The American auto industry was literally dragged kicking and screaming into producing fuel efficient autos by the foreign auto makers taking their business away from them back in the late 70's and early 80's. Don't for one second think that executives of the American auto industry don't think in pennies as well as dollars.

Because if they did, they wouldn't have been dragging their feet about the 'development' of alternate fuel vehicles and electric vehicles driven by hydrogen. But I digress.

The basic assumption that the auto industry is tied to the oil industry is a given. They own each other, as it were. So producing high mpg automobiles is not in their best interest. They use the same method as a magician. Misdirection. While we are all looking at their left hand, they are busy with their right hand taking more and more money from us.

I'm stepping down off my soap box for now with one last comment. I want to know where the 'rocket cars of tomorrow' went?

If you want to be REALLY DEPRESSED, here is a really LOOONG read from across the pond. TONYBALONEY might be interested in this guys 'viewpoint'. Very interesting excerpt about the oil industry in general.

http://news.independent.co.uk/environment/article339928.ece

 

[Elwenil]

Did you gain anything with the AEM? My stock airbox was good all the way through about 325 hp, then it started becoming restrictive. I've heard of folks actually loosing from it, but I don't see how. Maybe turbulence? I don't know. the stock airbox should be 100 times more turbulent.

Haven't put it on yet, I just got it in today. I had good luck with it on my old Galant that I had before, but it was an underpowered dog. I might take the SRT out for a run this weekend to see it it does much more than make a bunch of noise. I'm trying to leave it parked for the winter but it's hard, lol. She has 4k miles already and I haven't driven it in well over a month. Mopar had some stuff on the SRT mods that claimed that the extra air flow from a cold air style intake caused the air in the turbo to "stall". Not sure what that means exactly, other than the obvious, but I supposed anything is possible.

I just got my SRT in Oct, and with my meager pay, I'm still in the "dressup phase" I guess. So far I've put in Autometer Ultralite oil press and oil temp gauges, blow off valve conversion plate, and some MSD wires. I've got some strut tower braces coming and when I either get my taxes back, or my bonus at work, I'm going with a Mopar stage 3 coilover kit. More interested in show and handling at this point. Also on the "want list" is an oil catch can and a turbo timer. Then maybe I'll dig deeper into the engine, but for now it's still brand new, lol.

 

[CUMMINS]

I think an AFE filter plumbed to outside air or in to the cab would reduce EGTS a decent amount, I use one on my Cummins with twin turbos, and it flows very well and its seems to filter very well also, of course any filter would be better than the huge stock filter with the engine sucking through a 3 1/2'' hole in the filter canister

 

[DrFoster]

... Guess you didn't read my post about CFM requirements of the turbo and what the filter can flow.... LOL that's ok.

You're partially right; any outside cool air is a lot better than engine compartment air.

 

[CUMMINS]

I read yor post and you are right the stock filter should flow plenty of air , but what I don't like is the engine breathing through the small hole in the canister, if you put your hand near it, it pulls a lot of vaccum, thats got to be a restriction, the stock filter canister is the restriction, not the filter

 

[cranetruck]

Placed an air filter canister from an M543 on the fender of the deuce just for fun.
The filter element is a Donaldson 19207-7737491, rated 525 CFM.

PS. If the top looks funny, it's because I keep a vinyl spare top over the bikini top when the truck isn't driven.

PS. The color on the bumper on the right edge (truck left side) is Aervoe Earth Yellow sprayed on during the visit to Aberdeen in 2004. the Earth Yellow everywhere else is a Sherwin Williams oil based mix based on a color sample also from an Aervoe can a few months earlier.
The colors are a bit funky in general due to a light rain at the moment, but Aervoe turns pink.

 

[Wick246]

O.k. - airflow problem solved!

(thanks to Brad900 for the photo & hope you don't mind)

 

[rmgill]

Hey Bjorn, mount that 5 ton filter up with the intake facing front and you'll have a ram air setup.

 

[Trango]

For a pyro, I found that an Autometer 12v 2" pyro pulls about 174mA on 12v current. I soldered a 75ohm resistor inline with both the light and the instrument itself, shrinkwrapped the whole thing, and I should be fine to throw a holesaw pretty much anywhere on the dash on this, and just wire it up to a splice coming from the ON lever.

I got about two winks of sleep last night, so assuming I don't go home and sleep for 12 hours, I should be able to make some progress mounting this thing.

Bob

 

[Djfreema]

If you put the resistor in line with it can you just hook it up to 24v? That would be nice since I have already burned out a pyrometer due to it grounding itself when I was moving it around. I have it hard wired on a switch off one battery for 12v.

 

[Trango]

Yeah, that's the hope - you're just dropping the voltage with a resistor, the resistance of which is dependant on the current used by the device.

I should have it all done by later this week. What day is it today, Weds? Yeah.

 

[wallew]

Well, I'm NOT trying to start ANYTHING. The only reason I started this thread is because this is WHAT I'm doing. That's all. AS PROMISED, here are several pix.

Picture 1 is the first hint that something's different in my stock air cannister. Picture 2 show how and where the K&N filter clamps to the top of the air cannister. Picture 3 is side view. Picture 4 shows the modification I had to make - I had to cut the bottom out of this filter so it would fit the base of the cannister. Picture 5 shows the other modification I had to make - I had to cut the top of the filter so that it was only as tall as the clamp (I cheated - I left the clamp on and just followed it around).

Now I KNOW you folks don't have many positive things to say about K&N for whatever the reason. I have always found they work well FOR ME. We each have to do what we have to do.

Having said that, for the first time of starting my truck once daily, it started on the third short push of the start button. And came up to smooth idle about five minutes quicker (used to take about fifteen minutes to smooth out) OK, it's only been about ten or eleven times that I have started my truck in the morning as I've only owned it about two weeks.

But I'm happy.

 

[Wick246]

Looks like a good, clean install Wallew.

 

[wallew]

Wick,
Thx. It was way easy. Just me, my K&N filter and my box cutter. Worked great. Took three tries to get it to fit properly. First was without mods. The second was with the bottom cut out. The final install was with the bottom cut out AND the top cut down. It just slid right in place.

I think it runs better, but will give my driving impressions in the next few days. I've got to install my plates (at least the rear one) and haven't gotten to it yet.

I'll let you folks know. jim

OH, and while I have my old filter that looks almost brand new as backup, I don't expect to have to purchase another filter for my deuce again. Having said all that, I COULD be wrong...

 

[Recovry4x4]

It sure is a cute little guy Jim!

 

[wallew]

Well, I just HAD to report this. Again, I've ONLY owned this truck for a little under two weeks. I start it up every morning and let it run for about twenty minutes, or until it appears to be running 'smoothly'

FOR THE FIRST TIME, she started on the FIRST push of the start button. I will grant you that the temperature is about 44 degrees today, a little warmer that it has been for the past few days. But we have been this warm before and it has always taken three, four, five pushes of the start button and holding the throttle in about one quarter.

She caught almost immediately. Maybe I held my mouth right. But I will continue to monitor starting my truck every morning and report back in a week or so.

 

[cranetruck]

Glad your deuce is behaving.
The air filter probably has nothing to do with the ease of starting. At idle and low rpm's the engine has more than enough air.
Just this morning my deuce started in 10 seconds (got a clock, he he) at 24F and the air filter is probably due for a change/cleaning.
The added air flow comes into play when you are trying to max the output of the engine, loaded truck, hill, EGT at 1,200F...
I would say that you need a pyro and a boost gauge to be able to monitor the performance.

 

[wallew]

DrFoster is working on getting me some out of an aircraft. I think. If he's not successful, then I guess I will just go out and buy some. I HATE doing that.

I'd much rather recycle some older gauges from some other military application. We will see. And I GOTTA GET one of those 'Russian tank clocks' like you've got. I think it fits in rather well.

 

[cranetruck]

Here is a similar "Russian tank clock", although, I think mine is from the 1960's.
Keep looking, they pop up from time to time (no pun intended), but don't pay too much for them,
like I said, I paid about $15 for mine a year ago.

http://cgi.ebay.com/WW2-Russian-Tan...ryZ10954QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem