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KE5EUA's 818 Build

ke5eua

Well-known member
2,568
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48
Location
Baton Rouge (Central), LA
Alright today I got the seat bolted in. I figured 3 5/16" bolts will hold it just fine, lol

Got her running then ran into problem number #8675309

I put a new pump to act as a lift pump. Holly 80 gph inline pump, nice, expensive, and the best part, it worked! Well it worked a little to well. Got the truck started and started to let it idle on its own after getting the air out of the system and I heard a nice pop and then a cab full of diesel. I'm guessing I either busted the line or a seal on the primer pump as that's where the fuel was coming from.

Specs on the pump state it can get to 80 psi at 18v, and 60 at 13v. I'm going to remove the primer pump and just use the primer gauge to see the pressure before the ip.

I will post the videos as soon as they upload to the tube.
 

ke5eua

Well-known member
2,568
40
48
Location
Baton Rouge (Central), LA
Are you running the pump on 18v or 24? It would probably build 100 psi on 24v, or maybe just burn up...
No it's on 12v. I'm going to dig into the primer pump and see if it was just a tear in the hose from age. The gauge goes up to 120 and I know I'm put some pressure on it before the electric pump. Also going to look into a safety bypass to allow excess to go in the return like on hydraulic systems.
 

ke5eua

Well-known member
2,568
40
48
Location
Baton Rouge (Central), LA
Alright, I need some help on the plumbing here.

Looking at the TM for the primer pump I'm trying figure out where the two lines that go out hook into.

Line 6 I figure goes to the gauge since it doesn't go through a grommet.

Line 9 I know is the input, and 2 is the output but where do they actually connect to. Is it on the ip, or somewhere else.

Cold Start Pump and Piping.jpg
 

ke5eua

Well-known member
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48
Location
Baton Rouge (Central), LA
What truck wouldn't be complete without a skull shift knob. Also added a rubber boot at the bottom. Entire shaft has 4 layers of heat shrink tubing on it, same with the transfer lever.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1412545993.694191.jpg
 

ke5eua

Well-known member
2,568
40
48
Location
Baton Rouge (Central), LA
Little video of what I got done this past week.

The reason for the shut off valve on the primer line is because the pump will allow flow with the pump off and that port will build pressure on it's own so I didn't want to constantly have fuel dumped into the intake. If I need the primer in the cold it's just a matter of removing the panel and opening the valve, starting the truck and closing it again.
 
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ke5eua

Well-known member
2,568
40
48
Location
Baton Rouge (Central), LA
Pics
 

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ke5eua

Well-known member
2,568
40
48
Location
Baton Rouge (Central), LA
Alright, got a lot done. Decided to stay in Louisiana and just finish the truck and drive it to Texas. So no rally for me. Wife figured it would be cheaper in the long run since I already had enough fuel in the tanks to make it to Texas.

Rear facing camera

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s3XdFMO0mCs

Front facing camera

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=492ma5yQB3c&feature=youtu.be

Dash cam is an E-Prance 1296P Super HD, I have it set to 1080p and with a 32gb card it shows 4 1/2 hours of recording time.

I wanted to be able to record front and back, but be able to get a good enough angle to get my view out rather than what you usually see in dash cam videos.

I'm uploading a 16 min video right now and will post it once it is done.
 
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tim292stro

Well-known member
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Location
S.F. Bay Area/California
FY, that waviness you see in your demo video is what you get when you use a progressive shutter camera versus a global shutter. t's hard to find cameras where that is specified...

You can try a foam/gell vibration mount to take out the vibration from the camera mount. Should improve the video quality.
 

ke5eua

Well-known member
2,568
40
48
Location
Baton Rouge (Central), LA
FY, that waviness you see in your demo video is what you get when you use a progressive shutter camera versus a global shutter. t's hard to find cameras where that is specified...

You can try a foam/gell vibration mount to take out the vibration from the camera mount. Should improve the video quality.
I'm not all worried with it, it only does it when idling.

Main purpose for the camera is to catch stupid things in the act and post them to the internet, lol
 
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Crawdaddy

Member
442
2
18
Location
Louisiana
GoPros often have that jello issue. There's some software tool that will help reduce that effect when editing the video. Unfortunately I don't know what it's called, but I'm sure it can be found with a quick google search.

Also, you may want to consider moving the sat radio (I'm assuming that's what you were looking at) up higher on the dash or cab roof. You were looking down at it for a good while.
 

ke5eua

Well-known member
2,568
40
48
Location
Baton Rouge (Central), LA
GoPros often have that jello issue. There's some software tool that will help reduce that effect when editing the video. Unfortunately I don't know what it's called, but I'm sure it can be found with a quick google search.

Also, you may want to consider moving the sat radio (I'm assuming that's what you were looking at) up higher on the dash or cab roof. You were looking down at it for a good while.
It was the radio head, I had the sat radio antenna to low and it wasn't picking up so I was trying to tune the radio. I agree, not safe, I know the sequence to get the radio on, and put it in aux from memory, tuning it is harder since it doesn't have a seek function. The last couple trips I did around town I have made it a point to get the radio where I want it before I leave the driveway. Where the sat radio is I can push the preset buttons and know what station it is on.
 

ke5eua

Well-known member
2,568
40
48
Location
Baton Rouge (Central), LA
Alright so it's been awhile since I've done anything with the truck.

Today I pulled the center hump and started stripping the multiple layers of carc off in preparation of filler, blocking and painting.

Next will be the upgrade to a completely digital dash setup. This will involve new sensors for coolant, oil pressure and temperature, air pressure, transmission temperature, and a temp sensor for each diff.

Also adding digital switches for master power, engine power, and starting with manual overrides.

Gotta replace the pad on the parking brake but I'm going to get with Boyce equipment and see about getting the pinion disc brakes for the front and most rear axles.

Going to add a disconnect on the transfer to allow the front to sling freely, and of course that will be a digital switch with manual override.

Led lights all the way around, possibly a new top section for the cab, not sure yet.

Cab insulation, and an air conditioner / heater. If I can get the bracket to mount a compressor to the nhc 250, along with a dual alternator for a high amp 12v alternator.

Last but not least will be the 395's, those will finally be put on.
 

ke5eua

Well-known member
2,568
40
48
Location
Baton Rouge (Central), LA
Finished stripping the transmission hump today and filled in the holes I drilled and filled in the one little dip where something could go.

Gotta finish sanding tomorrow but I'm liking where this is going.

I went with bondo as a test bed as the usc metal filler is twice as much as bondo.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1425345914.871413.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1425345940.556715.jpg
 

ke5eua

Well-known member
2,568
40
48
Location
Baton Rouge (Central), LA
I first tried a rubberize paint but didn't like it so I peeled it off, took the orbital sander to it again and put 4 coats of brown camouflage from home depot on it. Has two coats on the underside.

This is my first attempt at bondo and I think I did an alright job. It's the dash that will require perfection.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1425516353.049561.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1425516372.851035.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1425516387.650155.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1425516405.151499.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1425516431.903390.jpg
 
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