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looking for M35A3 winch parts

Sephirothq

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I am looking on northern tool's website for some parts. There is a hydraulic tank that would work fine. I think the stock system is about 42 quarts?

So i should have at least a 10 gal tank. I assume since the pump is always turning the extra oil is there for cool mass. So that is the tank.

NorthStar Steel Hydraulic Oil Tank — 10 Gallon | Tanks + Reservoirs | Northern Tool + Equipment

I am not an expert in hydraulics but i know the system needs a pressure releif valve as a safety.

Prince Adjustable Relief Valve, 3/4in. | Relief Valves | Northern Tool + Equipment

So that is the safety valve.

I got a pump that bolts to the Cat engine. It makes 13 GPM at 1000 RPM, 3500 max PSI and it has 1" ports on it.

I am looking at the following control valves I am looking for input. I know they are 12 volt solenoids, but it shouldn't put that many amps to worry about it that often.
Which valve am i looking for.


Northman Fluid Power Hydraulic Directional Control Valve – 26.4 GPM, 4500 PSI, 3-Position, Double Solenoid, Tandem Center Spool, 12 Volt DC Solenoids, Model# SWH-G03-C6-D12-10 | Power Solenoid | Northern Tool + Equipment

or

Northman Fluid Power Hydraulic Directional Control Valve – 26.4 GPM, 4500 PSI, 3-Position, Double Solenoid, Open Center Spool, 12 Volt DC Solenoids, Model# SWH-G03-C3-D12-10 | Power Solenoid | Northern Tool + Equipment

or

Northman Fluid Power Hydraulic Directional Control Valve – 26.4 GPM, 4500 PSI, 3-Position, Double Solenoid, Closed Center Spool, 12 Volt DC Solenoids, Model# SWH-G03-C2-D12-10 | Power Solenoid | Northern Tool + Equipment

or

Northman Fluid Power Hydraulic Directional Control Valve – 26.4 GPM, 4500 PSI, 3-Position, Double Solenoid, Float Center Spool, 12 Volt DC Solenoids, Model# SWH-G03-C4-D12-10 | Power Solenoid | Northern Tool + Equipment

or

Northman Fluid Power Hydraulic Directional Control Valve – 26.4 GPM, 4500 PSI, 2-Position, Spring Offset, 12 Volt DC Solenoid, Model# SWH-G03-B2-D12-10 | Power Solenoid | Northern Tool + Equipment
 
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jesusgatos

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I can see how a chain-drive would help offset the hydraulic adapter to clear the radiator or whatever, but how are you picturing that working on a deuce? Sorry, I just haven't been around many hydraulic systems, and I'm trying to figure out exactly what you're talking about.
 

Sephirothq

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Trevorton / PA
It looks like northern tool doesn't have an off the shelf adapter unless i am missing something.

I might end up making something based off the bolt diameter on the winch housing.


Or again. i might see about getting a 5 ton hydraulic winch.

Hoses I can get make up and the hydraulic filter shouldn't be difficult to get either.
 

mudguppy

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this is the tank i was going to use. i have since acquired an 'A3 tank, though.


... I am not an expert in hydraulics but i know the system needs a pressure releif valve as a safety.

Prince Adjustable Relief Valve, 3/4in. | Relief Valves | Northern Tool + Equipment ...
it depends; if the valve you are using does not have a relief, then yes you will need this. if you are using a valve that has a pressure relief, then you would not need this unless you want an additional safety measure.




the valve you want depends on where you install it. if this is going to be on the hydraulic pump on the engine, you don't want closed center, you'll want open center.
  • closed center valves will dead-head the circuit creating pressure as long as the the pump is pumping; this pressure must exit through the relief valve.
  • open center valves will just flow the fluid in and out of the valve when the valve is in the center position without creating any pressure.
you don't want a closed centered valve on a pump mated to the engine without any kind of clutch or similar - whenever the engine is running, you'll be asking the pump to constantly create pressure. this is additional strain that will shorten the life of the pump. if an open center valve is used, the pump won't know anything is there until the valve is shifted to run the winch.

however, on a clutched pump or PTO style, i hear this is when you want a closed centered valve. this creates pressure whenever the pump is engaged, which gives the system better load control by having constant pressure.

this is the limit to my understanding.


i don't plan to use solenoids when i convert to hydraulic - i am going to use a dual spool valve and locate it in the cab (second spool is for additional winch in the future). to me, this will be much simpler to setup and should be more reliable. cost is about a wash between the two: spool valve is cheaper than solenoids, but more hose is required for installation.

you're correct to ensure that valve flow does not impede the system performance. however, you need to size the hydraulic motor to the pump to achieve the desired speed, pull, and system pressures. i have a hydraulic calculator; give me specs on your pump and i can recommend a motor size.

lastly, you also need to consider the valve port size. this should be appropriately large considering the system to reduce heat generation and keep the oil velocities within level. the calculator also calculates velocities and recommends minimum hose/fitting sizes of the system.
 

Sephirothq

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Trevorton / PA
I was going to try and find a stock motor. I have seen a few for sale.

I was thinking the electronic solenoids would be easier to work with and i could run it from either outside or inside the cab.

I think it would be easier then trying to track down the stock system. There are more pieces and it would cost more.

I don't think the stock system would be any better.

On the tank i am going to mount it between the cab and the box on a bobbed truck. I don't want to have it under the front bumper like the stock one. If it gets damaged it would leak and ruin the pump.
 
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most guys i know put there tanks behind the cab between the frame rails under the box usualy to one side ,, electric works ok but its expensive and im thinking the 12 volt ones might be hard to hook up . unless maybe you had side post and top batterys and just ran off the side posts of one battery ...anybody know if that would work? i have a winch hooked up like that but its all 12 volt
 

Sephirothq

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Trevorton / PA
I can pull 12 volts from one battery the one with the common ground. Yes there will be a voltage imbalance there, but the amp draw to open a valve shouldn't be anything to worry about.
 

m16ty

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Personally, I believe I'd go with a lovejoy coupling. You may not be able to find one with a hole on one end for the winch but that can be fixed with a drill.
 

Sephirothq

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That is what i was thinking. I will probably end up making my own mount and then my own coupling. I will get pics after I get the parts drawn up and made.

First I need to buy the motor.
 

Sephirothq

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Trevorton / PA
What about a solid steel coupler?

I was looking at some grade 80 stainless steel pipe. I could get the 1-1/4 ID and get it cut for a 5/16" key way. Then just drill it for the shear pin on the winch.

I am pretty sure the shaft to drive the winch is 1-1/4" can anyone confirm this?
 

m16ty

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Yes, a chain coupler would work fine also.

I would have thought a lovejoy would hold up unless the alignment was too far off.

You going to need some type of flex coupling unless you have the mount machined to make sure the winch input and the motor output are in exact alignment. If you don't use a flex coupling and the alignment is just a little off it will eventually eat the the bearings out of the winch input and/or motor.
 
the lovejoy can take lots of abuse if its perfectly lined up . mine kept breaking the spider into pieces and i couldnt get a big enough one with a small enough shaft hole . and didnt want to machine one out . so i went with the roller chain coupler its been on for over 150 hrs so far its pretty good. it can be out of line quite a bit and still not hurt anything. the last one we put on a pumper truck had over 2000 hrs on it before we changed the chain and sprockets it was still ok but the teeth were getting worn
 
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