• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

looking for M35A3 winch parts

if you have restrictors ( either drilled orifice or adjustable ) in your system you will generate lots of heat . if you have a big enough tank your oil will not get so hot . to small a tank with a big pump will cause cavitation( loss of prime or air in system) of your pump with the result of a screwed pump pretty quick. the pump can run all the time if you have a large cooling tank . it dosent generate much heat in an open center hook up.heat is mostely generated once you start to make the oil work.(pressure)
 

Sephirothq

Well-known member
1,423
26
48
Location
Trevorton / PA
the stock system has a 10 gal tank on it. I am guessing this reason is to make sure the oil doesn't get too hot. I am looking at a 10-12 gallon tank for my system.
 
on a bought tank the inlet and outlet holes should be in the right places sometimes on homemade tanks the return is put to close to the suction and causes a bit of problems. im sure the tank should be fine your not using the winch for hours on end like you would use a brush cutter or slasher . an electric clutch is a good idea (buy a high quality one) we used to use them when we made truck mounted high clerance sprayers the hydraulics controle the boom heighth and folding in and out.
 
365
3
18
Location
Anderson Creek, NC
Just checked and it is.still posted. However.I.failed to mention it includes.two new.red tops. There is.also the milemarker off of a.hummer. also with two red tops. Don't know.if he ships.
 

mudguppy

New member
1,587
15
0
Location
duncan, sc
... I would like to be able to keep the stock specs the winch would have for the maximum pull, for the line speed like you said hydraulics are controllable. It would be nice to be able to quickly spool up the line that is out.

What is the M35A2 line speed?
the pump info i have posted
GPM 13 @1000 RPM
Max Pressure 3500 PSI
I am pretty sure it will run at the same RPM as the engine. The pump bolts to the back of the air compressor. The engine idles around 800 - 850 RPM ...






alright, here's what the stock A3 system performance data would look like with the following assumptions:
  • the pump estimates are similar to the stock A3 pump
  • 75% worm drive efficiency
  • 87% motor efficiency
  • 85% pump efficiency
  • 1.00:1 pump-to-engine ratio
  • 850 rpm engine idle
  • 3.003 cid pump
  • 10.6 cid motor
  • shear pin failure at approximately 250ft-lbs (using Gringletaube's destructive testing data)
  • max desired oil velocity of 16 fps (recommended for continous operation systems)
Results:

Max line speed:
at engine idle, you'll have maximum line speeds of

  • 14 fpm on a bare drum
  • 28 fpm at full drum (5th layer)
at 1000 rpm, you'll have:
  • 16.5 fpm bare drum
  • 33 fpm full drum
line pull at system pressure (note: motor torque cannot exceed shear pin torque):
  • 1006 psi = 10k lbs line pull at bare drum and 5k lbs at full drum (123 ft-lbs at motor)
  • 2011 psi = 20k lbs line pull at bare drum and 10k lbs at full drum (247 ft-lbs at motor)
motor speed:
max motor speed to achieve 25 fpm at bare drum is 430 rpm.


valving:
at engine idle speed, the system will flow approximately 11 gpm. however, at an elevated idle of only 1500 rpm, the flow requirements increases to just under 20 gpm. therefore, i'd be sourcing valves for 25+ gpm or no less than 20 gpm. this will give you fast wind-up speed, especially at/near full drum.


Hose / fitting sizing:
minimum cross sectional area of 0.40 sq. in. which is 0.71" diameter.

what this means is that in order to stay under the 16 fps oil velocity, hoses need to be, at a minimum, 3/4" or -12 size. this is for the continuous part of the system. since your pump is not clutched to the engine, the pressure lines from the pump, valve, relief, and any other part of the system that will circulate constantly need to be 3/4". the pressure lines to/from the motor can be smaller since these are only intermittent use. suction line should be in the neighborhood of 1" - 1 1/2" hose (probably closer to 1 1/2", especially if the reservoir is below or far from the pump. if both, then consider larger hose.).



now you need to find a suitable motor. Parker motors should still be available. the one i recommened from NT is also a good fit; it was 9.7 cid. therefore, with a pump displacement of 3.00 cid, then i'd be looking for a motor with a displacement of around 9.5-11.0 cid and be capable of at least 500 rpm and 3000 in/lbs. once you have this selected, then set your system relief pressure in order to limit the line pull of the winch.




rules of thumb - in order to produce a certain line pull:
  • larger displacement motors or smaller displacement pumps require less system pressure but result in slower line speeds (or require more engine rpm)
  • smaller displacement motors or larger displacement pumps require more system pressure and produce faster line speed (but require less engine rpm)
 

mudguppy

New member
1,587
15
0
Location
duncan, sc
search is your frend and yes a 302 gasser does idle at 375 ...
neat. so what does that have to do with the OP's Cat motor that won't idle at 375 rpm??



... and a deuce winch is rated at 10 k max if you have to much more than that you will shear your pin ...
apparently you've missed it, but the A3 coupling that i detailed retains the OE shear pin. there's also been quite a bit of testing and calculations performed to determine the under-rated-ness (real word?) of the 10k Garwood. the shear pin was tested to shear at approximately 250 ft-lbs. this gives over 10k lbs of line pull at full drum (5th layer).

now, if we were to use your roller chain coupling method and eliminate the shear pin, then, yes you run this risk.


... or as some have found out blow up your winch and thats with either pto or hyd . ...
any of these ever happen with the OE shear pin in place?
 
mudslinge never in anybodys postes are they recomending getting rid of the shear pin.its a saftey device and should not be screwed with you or sombody on here recomended drilling a hole throught the connector, if connecting the roller chain coupler that way was not self explanitory to you im not sure you should be attempting to help anybody.


..and if my motor idles at 375 then your hyd will be the same speed rewind or faster if that wasnt self explanitory im sorry but i thought from your posts you could figure out some things . and i find it easy to winch with at slower speeds its way safer, get some good snach blocks and use them . when your stuck your not going anyplace anyway.oh and large or small pump .the system pressure to move your load stays the same. just horsepower to turn said pump will change and of course gpm of pump. oh and nobodys interested in how efficient a pump or motor is if we were, we would never use wormgear winches that have the lowesr efficency of prety near anything
 
Last edited:
sephirothg hope you get your project done to your satisfaction . hyds are simple but its hard to find any firsthand knowledge of what works . dont worry about eficiencies if the company says it is so much tourqe at so much pressure its usualy so close as not to be worried about they take all these inificiencies into consideration when they put out there facts on motors and pumps . we put motors on winches from 2.8 ci to 54.4 ci ...up to 4500psi pumps our biggest is around 70 gpm . 10000 psi hoses are getting to be standard. we have motors that at 13 gpm that would turn at over 2000 rpm and some that would be 5 or 6 rpm . hope you can figure out what you need . good luck
 

Sephirothq

Well-known member
1,423
26
48
Location
Trevorton / PA
OK guys. I got a factory M35A3 hydraulic motor. I also got a coupler for the motor and the winch. I just have to drill a hole in it for the shear pin.

So I think i have found a lever valve for it. it is for 18 GPM, 3000 PSI max. and a relief valve built in for 1500 PSI.

The question is should the valve be in the cab or outside by the winch.

I have to get the adapter, which i will probably end up making it. It shouldn't be too hard to do the more i look at it.

the hydraulic tank i would like to find used to save some money. I plan on mounting it behind the cab to protect it better then putting it on the front bumper. I know where i can get the lines made up. so i think i have most of the parts.
 

Sephirothq

Well-known member
1,423
26
48
Location
Trevorton / PA
I didn't see anything there that i could find at a great price.

So here is the break down -

pump on engine check

motor on winch check

coupler between winch and motor check

winch, brackets, frame extensions etc check

control valve with relief valve, found source

tank, found source

filter, found source

suction filter found source

lines, found source

motor, winch adapter will have to make, or find source

I think that is the entire system.

Let me know if i am missing anything.

I have an extra pump if anyone needs one.

I also will have the pto, drive shaft, and other PTO parts from the A2 winch setup that i would sell as an entire kit.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks