m1008 Lift

[ClutchUSMC]

Alright, so I want to put a 4" lift on my m1008, I was thinking the tuff country kit. Anyway, my question is, is it really as easy as it seems. I am not a gear head but have built lots of guns, computers, eletronics, etc and have worked on my own vehicles plenty. I would be doing this in my driveway with mostly hand tools. However, it seems to me you just unbolt some stuff and bolt some new stuff on, move the brake lines, etc. I read the manual online and I think that I shouldn't have much trouble doing it. I am looking for input as to the actualy difficulty of this install, the things I need to know that arent covered in the manual, and if the install is really as easy as it seems or if I should pay someone to do it. And if you recommend I pay someone how much should I expect to pay.

Also, if you are in the East NC/Havelock area and wanna help out a fellow MVer that would be great. Shoot me a pm if you wanna help out, I have a m101 that needs a new home maybe we can work out some kind of trade.

 

[Recovry4x4]

They are really straight forward and simple for kits up to and including 4". Once above that some different dynamics need to be considered. I've done these in the street in front of my house with nothing but hand tools. Some of the U-Bolts were a bear with a breaker bar and extension but I did it. Older and wiser now and won't do much without air tools and a torch within reach. Do some searching, the topic has come up in the past but honestly, I've spent hours searching and haven't found that much. I don't recall anyone doing a ride-a-long lift with the pics. Perhaps when I do mine much later in the year I'll do a step by step.

 

[Cucvnut]

in a Peterson's 4 wheeler from a month or two ago they did a lift on a k20 4x4 see if you can find it its a great beginners tech article. and they used all hand tools on it also

 

[84cucv1ton]

think that was a ord 4" shackle flip.

 

[Croatan_Kid]

I'm going to assume you're in the military or can at least get on base....so swing by the Hobby Shop tomorrow and check out my M1008 if you'd like. I'll lend a hand if you need one too. I live near Catfish Lake Road, not too far.

I wouldn't dream of paying somebody to do a lift for me on a straight axle Chevy, it's too easy. Shoot, if nuthing else, bring it on base and lift it at the shop. That way you can use a lift and all the fancy air tools you need and I'll be there to help and you won't even have to pay me since it's my job!

 

[Cucvnut]

the ord shackle flip is a great idea vs new springs

 

[Croatan_Kid]

For the rear, I only lifted it 3" as the front was sagging. Mine sits dead level with 5" up front and 3" out back. Since I only lifted it 3", I chose to use a lift block because it's cheaper, easier, and I can still ditch the blocks later on for a shackle flip if I want. Any more than 3" and I would do springs or a flip, but I don't see it as enough height to cause any problems with reliability or safety.

 

[84cucv1ton]

working on my friends truck today. got up early and got started. we have the back done and its 7 30. we lifted the rear with a 4 " flip that bolts in the stock location. then bolt in the shackle and spring your done. since we where there. we put in grease able bolts. this flip is something my friend has started making. i can get pic if you like. no messing with the rivets either. so much faster


For the front. we are moving the hangers and putting in a 52" springs. bit of work but so worth it. just time really. get 4" lift. good ride and flex. the rivets suck. we have a air hammer now. should make it a lot easier.

the flip was 120. 52 springs were free. we made 3/8" steel shackles for the front. free left over scarp. everything is grease able when we are done. not sure what the cost.

when i got my tc 4" kit i think it was about 460 to my door. i know he is WAY under that. he will have a better ride and flex then me.

hope it helps. back to work

 

[84cucv1ton]

forgot to say. the big things was 225 for ord cross over steering. need a 2wd steering box. thats free as well i have them all over..

still a lot cheaper then the tuff country kit

 

[85-m1028]

Only real issue I've ever had was a front spring eye bolt that rusted in the sleeve and I had to cut it out. Locating a new bolt was harder than I would of thought.

A new set of u-bolts is a must and should be tightened to spec with a good torque wrench. Relocating the brake lines would be ok if you got hung up on other stuff and ran out of time, but I would say a new set of extended lines would be the way to go.

Bleeding the brake lines can be a pain so saving that for later might make it less frusterating. providing everything goes smooth at the teardown, the new setup could be installed in about 4-6 hrs and will need to get the allignment done.

That reminds me a dropped draglink or pitman arm will be needed if you go over 3" of lift. You could use the factory one but it can get a little "iffy"

Deciding what size tire you want to use will help narrow down the lift options.

 

[84cucv1ton]

springs are in. axles bolted back in. on tires. dropped the lines to the calipers. lucky this truck has no rust. came apart real easy. lunch time. working on my suburban too.

 

[Cucvnut]

have anymore 2wd steering boxes ?

 

[Croatan_Kid]

Actually, you don't even need the whole steering box. Just the sector shaft, it unbolts from the top and slides right out and you can swap them in about 10 minutes.

The only PITA I remember from lifting my truck was the passenger side, front, upper shackle bolt. They're installed with the head of the bolt on the inside of the frame and when you try to slide it out, it'll hit the exhaust pipe. Just cut it about half way then break it off, they're grade 8 and pretty hard to cut, that's why I just broke mine.

Also, when you swap to 52s up front, it moves the front axle something like 2 inches forward if I remember correctly, but it also adds 4" of lift by itself. It pretty much requires crossover steering as well, but that's certainly not a bad investment for any straight axle Chevy truck. They work great for flex and ride, but for the money and time, lift springs are the ticket. My truck rides awesome and I think it's actually a better ride than my 99 Silverado.

One last, very important, thing. Use ONLY DOT 5 brake fluid. If you mix DOT 3 and DOT 5, they'll turn into a kinda Jello like substance and that wouldn't be very fun to get out of your entire brake system. It's expensive though, about 8 bucks for 11 ounces at the Advance Auto, but I didn't even use a whole bottle when I bled my new brake hoses.

 

[84cucv1ton]

yes you are right, we didnt know that. with how we lifted it both drive shafts are no good. need to be longer

 

[AJMBLAZER]

Confirm which brake fluid you have first. Mine has DOT 3 in it. Surprised me. Either it was never converted over to DOT 5 or somewhere along the line someone in the military or Alfa drained the DOT 5 and put it back to DOT 3 before I bought it.

 

[Croatan_Kid]

Easy way to tell...the DOT 5 is purple looking and the DOT is clear.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

Get them dirty or mixed and it's harder to tell.

I took a sample of mine and did the old water test. If it absorbs the water it's DOT 3 and if it displaces the water it's DOT 5.

 

[Croatan_Kid]

Reckon I got lucky then! Mine is crystal clear and I can see the bottom of the master cylinder through the brake fluid

 

[AJMBLAZER]

Eh, DOT 3 works fine if you keep after it. Also lots cheaper and easier to find. I'm happy with it in my vehicles.

 

[A-line]

I have done this, I have a S-10 AF body on a M1008 frame with a 4 in. lift with the 6.2, Pm me and I will shoot you some pictures.