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M1009 crank crank no start

SeanZhou

New member
9
5
3
Location
CA
I bought a M1009 in auction but never started. Recent I am trying to start it. I got two new batteries. Filled 10 gallons fresh diesel and check oil and cooling ok then I started.

I pulled all the glows to let it turn over faster.
I replaced new box filter and getting fuel to the bleeder.
I am replacing new solenoid in IP and now clicking loud and clear.
I replaced a clear tube for IP fuel return and I can see the fuel flow out but not spread out with air inside tube however I crank the air never going.
I opened the IP cover can see full fuel inside but I never see any fuel near fuel injector. And also I never see any exhaust with combustion. No any diesel combustion smell.

I crank and crank and have seen no fuel coming out of the lines at all. I don’t know what I am going to next step.

Any input would be great.
Thank you advance.
 

ezgn

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Lake Elsinore Ca.
I bought a M1009 in auction but never started. Recent I am trying to start it. I got two new batteries. Filled 10 gallons fresh diesel and check oil and cooling ok then I started.

I pulled all the glows to let it turn over faster.
I replaced new box filter and getting fuel to the bleeder.
I am replacing new solenoid in IP and now clicking loud and clear.
I replaced a clear tube for IP fuel return and I can see the fuel flow out but not spread out with air inside tube however I crank the air never going.
I opened the IP cover can see full fuel inside but I never see any fuel near fuel injector. And also I never see any exhaust with combustion. No any diesel combustion smell.

I crank and crank and have seen no fuel coming out of the lines at all. I don’t know what I am going to next step.

Any input would be great.
Thank you advance.
Maybe your injection pump is not functioning properly. Keith J on this site is one of the fuel injection pump experts. Maybe you could PM him.
 

ssdvc

Well-known member
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639
93
Location
CT
Did you try bleeding your injectors? That helped me get mine started.
 

Keith_J

Well-known member
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Location
Schertz TX
If you have fuel to the injection pump (IP) but no fuel at the injectors, the problem is internal to the pump. The fault most probable would be a stuck metering valve.

This valve must rotate freely at all positions as idle speed is governed by a very weak spring which opens the valve, opposing the centrifugal force from the flyweights which closes the valve.

Both valve and body are hardened steel which can corrode when exposed to stale fuel, especially fuel with 5% biodiesel.

Since you mentioned opening the IP and replaced the engine stop solenoid, you have a good idea how the governor throttle linkage functions. The engine stop solenoid forces the metering valve closed, the valve must open a small amount once the solenoid is engaged.

Try flooring the accelerator after turning the switch on, before cranking. Don't hold it down. If it starts but won't stay running, it is a sticking metering valve. You can get it to stay running with throttle but it won't idle.

Diesel Mechanic in a Bottle works well here, open the IP and siphon out as much fuel as possible. Fill with Diesel Mechanic in a Bottle and work the throttle. Also flip the metering valve a few times until it is freely turning. Reinstall the cover and try starting again.

The other possibility would be stuck plungers, that requires IP overhaul. Please post the year model, injection pump specification, it is on the driver side of the IP, beginning with DB2829-XXXX, with XXXX being a 4 digit number. There were at least 4 models of pumps used on CUCVs and many more which can work. There are slight changes in internal parts which may affect running.
 

SeanZhou

New member
9
5
3
Location
CA
Same story i had with my 1008 - IP, injectors and injector lines were full of crap inside. Replaced IP and injectors, problem solved.

My story: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/my-new-m1008.204310/
If you have fuel to the injection pump (IP) but no fuel at the injectors, the problem is internal to the pump. The fault most probable would be a stuck metering valve.

This valve must rotate freely at all positions as idle speed is governed by a very weak spring which opens the valve, opposing the centrifugal force from the flyweights which closes the valve.

Both valve and body are hardened steel which can corrode when exposed to stale fuel, especially fuel with 5% biodiesel.

Since you mentioned opening the IP and replaced the engine stop solenoid, you have a good idea how the governor throttle linkage functions. The engine stop solenoid forces the metering valve closed, the valve must open a small amount once the solenoid is engaged.

Try flooring the accelerator after turning the switch on, before cranking. Don't hold it down. If it starts but won't stay running, it is a sticking metering valve. You can get it to stay running with throttle but it won't idle.

Diesel Mechanic in a Bottle works well here, open the IP and siphon out as much fuel as possible. Fill with Diesel Mechanic in a Bottle and work the throttle. Also flip the metering valve a few times until it is freely turning. Reinstall the cover and try starting again.

The other possibility would be stuck plungers, that requires IP overhaul. Please post the year model, injection pump specification, it is on the driver side of the IP, beginning with DB2829-XXXX, with XXXX being a 4 digit number. There were at least 4 models of pumps used on CUCVs and many more which can work. There are slight changes in internal parts which may affect running.
 

SeanZhou

New member
9
5
3
Location
CA
If you have fuel to the injection pump (IP) but no fuel at the injectors, the problem is internal to the pump. The fault most probable would be a stuck metering valve.

This valve must rotate freely at all positions as idle speed is governed by a very weak spring which opens the valve, opposing the centrifugal force from the flyweights which closes the valve.

Both valve and body are hardened steel which can corrode when exposed to stale fuel, especially fuel with 5% biodiesel.

Since you mentioned opening the IP and replaced the engine stop solenoid, you have a good idea how the governor throttle linkage functions. The engine stop solenoid forces the metering valve closed, the valve must open a small amount once the solenoid is engaged.

Try flooring the accelerator after turning the switch on, before cranking. Don't hold it down. If it starts but won't stay running, it is a sticking metering valve. You can get it to stay running with throttle but it won't idle.

Diesel Mechanic in a Bottle works well here, open the IP and siphon out as much fuel as possible. Fill with Diesel Mechanic in a Bottle and work the throttle. Also flip the metering valve a few times until it is freely turning. Reinstall the cover and try starting again.

The other possibility would be stuck plungers, that requires IP overhaul. Please post the year model, injection pump specification, it is on the driver side of the IP, beginning with DB2829-XXXX, with XXXX being a 4 digit number. There were at least 4 models of pumps used on CUCVs and many more which can work. There are slight changes in internal parts which may affect running.
Thank you, Keith_J. Really appreciate you writing a lot of details. I will check all as you tell and hope I can find the problem. I will update after tomorrow works.
 

ezgn

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
650
1,039
93
Location
Lake Elsinore Ca.
How I can bleeding injectors? I am always thinking fuel system have air and I can see the air in fuel return tube. But I can’t take it away.
You said you never see any fuel near the fuel injectors, The only way to see fuel at the fuel injectors is to loosen the fuel line at the fuel injector and crank until you see fuel come out. Loosen all injector fuel lines, remove pink wire from the injector pump, crank engine until you get fuel out of all the lines.
 
Last edited:

SeanZhou

New member
9
5
3
Location
CA
You said you never see any fuel near the fuel injectors, The only way to see fuel at the fuel injectors is to loosen the fuel line at the fuel injector and crank until you see fuel come out. Loosen all injector fuel lines, remove pink wire from the injector pump, crank engine until you get fuel out of all the lines.
I tried a lot to crank and loosened the fuel line a little bit at fuel injector never see any fuel come out. Only difference is I am not removing pink wire from IP. Removal pink wire means keep stopping fuel supply position? Okay let me try this way. Thank you.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,280
9,625
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
remove pink wire from the injector pump, crank engine until you get fuel out of all the lines.
NO. With the pink/red wire unplugged at the fuel injection pump you will NOT get fuel delivery to the nozzles. You could crank a week and get nowhere with the pump unplugged. I would remove the glow plugs. Crack open all the delivery nozzle nuts and crank it till they were wet. Tighten all the nozzle nuts reinstall the glow plugs and if they are working it should start. Give it a whirl. Report back.
 

Keith_J

Well-known member
3,657
1,313
113
Location
Schertz TX
The pink wire allows fuel to be injected when 12 volts is applied. When 12 volts is removed, the solenoid forces the metering valve full clockwise. This valve is probably stuck in the closed position.
Make sure the energized to run engine stop solenoid functions correctly, you mentioned you had removed the injection pump cover. This solenoid is in the cover and has a finger sticking down. With cover off, move the governor assembly like this finger would do to stop the engine. Look at the metering valve, center in the governor chamber, at the back. It must move when you move the governor. Watch the video below right at the 6 minute mark :

 

SeanZhou

New member
9
5
3
Location
CA
remove pink wire from the injector pump, crank engine until you get fuel out of all the lines.
NO. With the pink/red wire unplugged at the fuel injection pump you will NOT get fuel delivery to the nozzles. You could crank a week and get nowhere with the pump unplugged. I would remove the glow plugs. Crack open all the delivery nozzle nuts and crank it till they were wet. Tighten all the nozzle nuts reinstall the glow plugs and if they are working it should start. Give it a whirl. Report back.
The pink wire allows fuel to be injected when 12 volts is applied. When 12 volts is removed, the solenoid forces the metering valve full clockwise. This valve is probably stuck in the closed position.
Make sure the energized to run engine stop solenoid functions correctly, you mentioned you had removed the injection pump cover. This solenoid is in the cover and has a finger sticking down. With cover off, move the governor assembly like this finger would do to stop the engine. Look at the metering valve, center in the governor chamber, at the back. It must move when you move the governor. Watch the video below right at the 6 minute mark :

Thank you k
The pink wire allows fuel to be injected when 12 volts is applied. When 12 volts is removed, the solenoid forces the metering valve full clockwise. This valve is probably stuck in the closed position.
Make sure the energized to run engine stop solenoid functions correctly, you mentioned you had removed the injection pump cover. This solenoid is in the cover and has a finger sticking down. With cover off, move the governor assembly like this finger would do to stop the engine. Look at the metering valve, center in the governor chamber, at the back. It must move when you move the governor. Watch the video below right at the 6 minute mark :

 

SeanZhou

New member
9
5
3
Location
CA
remove pink wire from the injector pump, crank engine until you get fuel out of all the lines.
NO. With the pink/red wire unplugged at the fuel injection pump you will NOT get fuel delivery to the nozzles. You could crank a week and get nowhere with the pump unplugged. I would remove the glow plugs. Crack open all the delivery nozzle nuts and crank it till they were wet. Tighten all the nozzle nuts reinstall the glow plugs and if they are working it should start. Give it a whirl. Report back.
I will try as you said. Thank you.
 

Keith_J

Well-known member
3,657
1,313
113
Location
Schertz TX
Thank you Keith & Cucvrus! You provide a lot knowledge should be learned. Let me take the cover and reinstall it. I bent the finger sticking a little bit forward. I think maybe this is the problem. Back soon.
Bending the finger forward could prevent shut off. Be careful. When installing the cover, it needs to be dropped in a forward position and slid back, this is what closes the metering valve. The solenoid is energized to run.
 
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