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M1009 Rear Differential Yoke

jdemaris

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Proper procedure from GM with used collar

Very ill advised as it is NOT the correct procedure........doing it right the first time has its benefits....
Ill advised by who?

Doing it correctly does not require a new crush collar. I'm interested in hearing why you feel otherwise. If no internal parts are being changed, using a new crush collar accomplishes nothing. A new collar is only needed when internal dimensions between the two bearing packs have changed.

GM gives full instructions on how to do it in the tech manual. If no internal parts are being changed, the collar can be reused as-is.

The crush-collar is simply a cost-cutting short-cut. It eliminates the need for an internal shim-pack to protect the bearings from too much preload. If there was no collar or shim-pack, there would be no pressure against the pinion nut to keep it from coming loose when bearing adjustment was correct. Same situation on front wheel bearings but they have lock mechanisms to keep the nut from backing off.

Direct from the GM factory tech manual for the 10 bolt 8.5" axle. Under the heading of "pinion flange/pinion oil seal replacement." Measure rotating torque of the pinion before disassembly. After reinstalling the pinion flange, "tighten the pinion nut in additional small increments until the torque necessary to rotate the pinion exceeds the original recorded valve by 3 inch pounds."

That is GM's recommended method to get preload back to where it was, plus adding a small amount and reusing the old crush-collar. Note that GM calls it a "collapsible spacer."

All that crush collar does besides help prevent excess bearing preload - is allow some pressure against the pinion nut so it will stay tight. If this was a more heavy-duty drive axle, there would be shim pack inside instead of a crush collar. This way, no matter how tight you cranked on the pinion nut, you would not ruin the bearings.

With the cheap crush-collar setup, new or used - it is easy to ruin the pinion bearings because there is nothing to stop adding too much bearing-crush.

I've seen many get ruined over the 50 years I've worked as mechanic, and that happens with any collar - new or used. A pinion with used bearings should be tightened so the rolling torque is 8 to 12 inch pounds with used bearings. 24 to 32 inch pounds with new bearings.

If just pulling the pinion flange to replace a seal, and not renewing the flange, it even gets easier. You mark the nut against the flange before loosening. Then when reinstalling you make sure you tighten up exactly as it was before with the marks lined up. Then tighten just a bit further and check pinion rolling torque.
 

panama

Member
123
21
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Location
Miami, FL
Thanks again for all the help guys.

DH - Turns out there is a Fleet Pride in Miami. I will keep them in mind in the future
LJD - Those are the pointers I was looking for. I have since learned that the u-joints are 3R and that there are sources to buy the yoke new as well. Thanks for the Denny's tip too.
dave - Always appreciated

What I decided to do was upgrade to a 1310 series. Since I had to replace the chewed up driveshaft yoke and the wrecked pinion yoke I just did it all to a 1310 spec. It all had to be purchased/replaced and I thought the extra beef couldn't hurt and would be worth the few extra bucks.
 

jdemaris

New member
188
6
0
Location
NY
LJD - Those are the pointers I was looking for. I have since learned that the u-joints are 3R and that there are sources to buy the yoke new as well. Thanks for the Denny's tip too.
dave - Always appreciated

What I decided to do was upgrade to a 1310 series. Since I had to replace the chewed up driveshaft yoke and the wrecked pinion yoke I just did it all to a 1310 spec. It all had to be purchased/replaced and I thought the extra beef couldn't hurt and would be worth the few extra bucks.
1310 joint itself is actually weaker then the original. Only has 1 1/16" caps instead of the original 1 1/8" caps used in the 3R setup.

1310 has 1.06" caps and 2.34" wide between caps
3R has 1.125" caps and 2.55" wide between caps
1350 has 1.18" caps and 3.62" wide between caps

You can install a 1350 type yoke and then use a conversion joint #447 Precision that will fit the driveshaft with no mods.

All depends on what you want. K5 Blazers have always had a rear U-joint issue because of the short wheel-base and sharp angle at the joint. Many Chevy dealers used to lower the transfercase a bit to lessen the angle. It's an easy 15 minute job. You take the spaces out from the four bolts that hold the crossmember on, and stick them between the crossmember and frame instead. But, this results in a little less ground clearance at the transfercase.
The failure point is just about always at the two caps that clamp into the pinion yoke. When worn, sometimes the driveshaft can fall off with no prior warning and blow the transfercase to pieces. Pinion yokes can get "tweaked" and out of round. Then new joints will keep failing often.
 

panama

Member
123
21
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Location
Miami, FL
Guess I still got alot to learn gents. Work is in process and parts have been ordered so 1310 it is. I wanna replace the front u-joints too. Are they all 3R like the rear? Barring anything "funny" like I am about to do to the rear that is...
 

jdemaris

New member
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0
Location
NY
Work is in process and parts have been ordered so 1310 it is. I wanna replace the front u-joints too. Are they all 3R like the rear?
Front uses a Spicer 1310 joint at the pinon flange. CV joint at the rear where the driveshaft bolts to the transfercase flange. You don't want to attempt to put a new CV joint in unless you've got a lot of experience. They're not easy.

By the way, the OEM new pinion yoke for your rear is available brand new from most auto parts stores from Dorman. Part # 697500. $65 for the kit with new upgraded pinion yoke, new style seal, washer and new pinion nut. Same kit is over $100 from GM. An old pinion yoke that's out of round is often the reason why rear u-joints fail early JUST at the caps that are strapped in.
 

panama

Member
123
21
18
Location
Miami, FL
Thanks for the 3R rear pinion yoke part number. It will be a nice addition to my parts list. For info purposes the 1310 yoke I put on the rear was from Powertrain Industries and was part # 3104-30. The 1310 U-bolt kit for it was a Spicer 2-94-28X. It all went on nice and I shouldn't have the caps slipping out and leading to this problem again.
 
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