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M1009 Receiver Hitch
- Thread starter lindsaym
- Start date
steelandcanvas
Well-known member
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- Southwestern Idaho
Google M1009 Hitch Install, plenty of good reading there.
Sure, i found some, each with conflicting information - especially in regards to what kind of hitch to get - and a bunch of terminology/steps that were a bit over my head. Found plenty of stuff on Google too (prior to posting), led me to similar forums. I'm not an expert, just looking for some help so I don't order a hitch, have it shipped to Alaska, find out it doesn't fit, and be forced to spend a wad of cash having someone make it fit. Isn't this an open forum?
ReubenJames
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- Martinsville, IN
I put on a Draw-Tite last summer and it was a pretty straight forward install. Hardest thing was getting some the old rusted nuts to break free. Just used plenty of PB Blaster and take your time. You can find some good deals on them online. Good Luck.
- 2,705
- 752
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- Oakwood, Ga
73M819 just put a curtis on my M1009. I think that all the the receiver hitches all have challenges. The curtis is a nice hitch and would bolt up to a stock k5 in less than 30 minutes. For a M1009 expect 3-4 hours dependant on your approach.
Approaches
1.) Leave hitch assembly in place and remove pintle. This is cosmetically nice but requires the following
a. cutting off safety chain hooks
b. removing cross bar across bottom of bumper
c. removing pintle
The back holes are in frame but you have to fish in the carrige bolts and lock. Then you have to get the bolts out that hold the hitch assembly, bumper and frame and get the new bolts in with the receiver.
Approach 2:
Remove current pintle hitch assemble. Does not look as nice but in some cases if you can not get off the pintle I think this is the route some people have taken.
No matter what approach you take plan on 3 times as long. It is not a quick bolt up.
Approaches
1.) Leave hitch assembly in place and remove pintle. This is cosmetically nice but requires the following
a. cutting off safety chain hooks
b. removing cross bar across bottom of bumper
c. removing pintle
The back holes are in frame but you have to fish in the carrige bolts and lock. Then you have to get the bolts out that hold the hitch assembly, bumper and frame and get the new bolts in with the receiver.
Approach 2:
Remove current pintle hitch assemble. Does not look as nice but in some cases if you can not get off the pintle I think this is the route some people have taken.
No matter what approach you take plan on 3 times as long. It is not a quick bolt up.
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- 12,196
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- gainesville, ga.
We ???
I found a user on another thread who posted a pic of a pintle/ball combo that can be bolted in exactly where the old pintle is. Any draw-backs to this? I sent him a message but no response yet. It looks sound in the pictures, just not sure if some civilian trailers would fit. If that's not going to work, I will purchase one of the brands mentioned above. Thanks, guys!
- 2,705
- 752
- 113
- Location
- Oakwood, Ga
Yes that will work. Please note below:
The combination pintle/Ball hitch assembly bolted to the bumper is subject to how good your bumper and associated bolts strength, age etc. It is an okay design, but not rock solid and for obvious reasons the above should be inspected and or replaced.
It will work, is easier to do, but limits you to one, 2" ball size. That does not fit everyone's mission in some cases
The combination pintle/Ball hitch assembly bolted to the bumper is subject to how good your bumper and associated bolts strength, age etc. It is an okay design, but not rock solid and for obvious reasons the above should be inspected and or replaced.
It will work, is easier to do, but limits you to one, 2" ball size. That does not fit everyone's mission in some cases
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- 12,196
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- Location
- gainesville, ga.
YES on the draw back, that is NOT the strongest point, very weak point to pull with, when WE pulled the cross bar, it was bent, the pentle mount is basically a BUMPER MOUNT, this why the CART hitch (a frame mount) was put on.
If your going to do it, do it right
If your going to do it, do it right
- 2,705
- 752
- 113
- Location
- Oakwood, Ga
Kind of sums things up
- 2,011
- 73
- 48
- Location
- Orlando, FL
lindsaym: I have the pintle and a Class III hitch. I posted pictures on this thread of my hitch setup. See post #11. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?93401-M1009-Towing/page2
- 2,705
- 752
- 113
- Location
- Oakwood, Ga
The dual configuration is a nice touch but none of my normal ball trailers can be towed that low on ground.
- 2,011
- 73
- 48
- Location
- Orlando, FL
With my setup, I could use an adjustable height receiver to handle trailers that sit taller than my 18' flatbed. I've never tried fitting an adjustable receiver on my hitch, but I'm pretty sure it would work.
- 2,705
- 752
- 113
- Location
- Oakwood, Ga
OD that might work, you would have to get an extension/long receiver to go out far enough to clear the pintle as you go up. If found it was easier to have the receiver which allowed for my pintle hitch, normal ball hitch, bike rack, future winch rack to all go into one unit.
Lookup Barrman's M1009 hitch install. Everything installs where it should. A couple of parts do require slight modification.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?70765-Receiver-hitch-pics
I am also changing the title of your thread to reflect the actual subject matter. The different models of CUCVs require different hitches.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?70765-Receiver-hitch-pics
I am also changing the title of your thread to reflect the actual subject matter. The different models of CUCVs require different hitches.
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- 2,705
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- 113
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- Oakwood, Ga
Would you not have to delete all the posts?
MakersTeleMark
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I laughed.