M1009 Wheel bearing servicing and hub replacement

[wayne pick]

top, as said above, Great post and pics. Haynes has nothing on you and "shade tree".

 

[jdeoliveira74]

so brought my to my mechanic... good thing so we pull off the passenger hub and the lock washer is broken in two not the worst part the race falls out of the hub. hub is shot had to order a new one. Glad I didnt do this one in my sandy yard my neighbors would have rolled up the sidewalks with me cussing and yelling lol

 

[ricksherryjosh1]

did you have to press the outside bearing in or did nut take care of that, I notice you didn't replace or install the chases? thanks Rick

 

[1994skyman]

hub locks

Hey do you know where I can get replacement hub locks for a M1009

 

[Speddmon]

Oh, let's see...

Napa
Autozone
Advance Auto Parts
Pep Boys
O'Reily Auto Parts
Summit Racing
Jegs


Anyplace that sells auto parts pretty much. They are civilian lockouts available just about anywhere. OEM's are Warn hubs. Anyplace that sells Warn products can get them too. They are not uncommon

 

[paraclete comes]

thanks

 

[top_prop]

did you have to press the outside bearing in or did nut take care of that, I notice you didn't replace or install the chases? thanks Rick

The nut takes care of seating the bearings... that is why you torque it down a few times then back it off until the pin on the inner spindle nut lines up with the hole...

Tom

 

[85CUCVtom]

I'm going to add a few questions here instead of starting a new thread.

Why would one have to replace the actual hub body? I have to do my brakes and I'm going to get my rotors turned or replace them. I noticed at the part store they are available with or with out the hub body?

Do the races have to be pressed in with an arbor press if I had to replace the hub body?

How does the hub separate from the rotor? Do you have to press out the studs?

When I take it all apart, what should I look for in the bearings and races besides the obvious like pitting and cracks? I don't notice any excessive noise while driving as is.

I'm gonna tear it apart this weekend to see the condition of the bearings before I go buy all new parts. I would really like to know what to look for.

 

[85CUCVtom]

I'm really surprised someone hasn't weighed in on this yet. Anybody?

 

[phil2968]

You should not have to replace the hub unless it had something wrong like a damaged bore. Press or knock the studs out to remove the rotor. When you install a new rotor make sure the mating surfaces are spotless! Just a little bit of rust or dirt will lead to rotor runout and pulsing brakes.
The bearings can be driven out by hand with the proper punch. If you don't have a bearing race installer tool it can be done with a punch as well just carefully. Autozone rents tools.
This is covered in the TM really well.

 

[porkysplace]

Most of your questions are answered here CUCV TMs .

 

[CARNAC]

Glad someone revived this thread, I was about to do one like this when I serviced mine. Guess I don't need to do that now.

 

[Dave Kay]

I'm in the process of doing this job right now and want to say thanks to OP for the great write up. Reason I'm reviving this thread is cause I've the need to clean/lube inside the cap/dial/cover mechanism and haven't seen anything on how that is done, if in fact it can be. Lot's of crud in there on my set and I believe there is also a small O-ring seal inside as well which may need R&R. Looks like my 1008 went thru some water at some point and Army mechs didn't do a proper bearing/hub service, hence, rust & crud.

Anybody done this?

 

[85CUCVtom]

I'm in the process of doing this job right now and want to say thanks to OP for the great write up. Reason I'm reviving this thread is cause I've the need to clean/lube inside the cap/dial/cover mechanism and haven't seen anything on how that is done, if in fact it can be. Lot's of crud in there on my set and I believe there is also a small O-ring seal inside as well which may need R&R. Looks like my 1008 went thru some water at some point and Army mechs didn't do a proper bearing/hub service, hence, rust & crud.

Anybody done this?

What your referring to is the lockout. There isn't much to them, once you take them apart you'll see what I mean. All the guts of the lockout have to come out in order to get the spindle nut off.

 

[Dave Kay]

outer hublock knob assembly

What your referring to is the lockout. There isn't much to them, once you take them apart you'll see what I mean. All the guts of the lockout have to come out in order to get the spindle nut off.

My vehicle is M1008 and I have the lockout body on the bench and apart as far as it goes. What I'm referring to I call the cap/dial/cover mechanism which is the first thing removed and the last thing re-installed when servicing the front axle. Has anyone disassembled this? Looking at exploded view in Helms manual, 91 thru 98, it's called the outer hublock knob assembly, but I can't seem to find a way to get it apart. Have scoured the TM's but maybe I am missing something?

 

[SteveUK]

Hi Dave,
I know what you mean. I had to dismantle my 'knob assembly' as it was not engaging LOCK. It took me ages to realise - you remove the sticker over the centre of the hub - yours has a white arrow on it. If you are careful you can prise it clear with a sharp screwdriver. It is a flexible, probably self-adhesive sticker which if you do not crease it could be replaced with a strong glue/adhesive. Underneath you will find a Phillips/cross head screw, Carefully unscrew this and the lock ring, and notched ring and the spring will come apart. CAREFUL as that spring is under a lot of tension! getting it all back together will rewuire the use of a C clamp to overcome that tension. You will see that the spring assembly is governed by a locking ring whick travels on a coarse thread (it is easier to see than to describe) My only other advice is - WHY are you disassembling this part? I had to as there was/is a problem with it engaging with the lock mechanism inside the hub. I have just left it in FREE for the moment.
I hope this helps,
Steve United Kingdom '85 M1009

 

[Dave Kay]

Hi Dave,
I know what you mean. I had to dismantle my 'knob assembly' as it was not engaging LOCK. It took me ages to realise - you remove the sticker over the centre of the hub - yours has a white arrow on it. If you are careful you can prise it clear with a sharp screwdriver. It is a flexible, probably self-adhesive sticker which if you do not crease it could be replaced with a strong glue/adhesive. Underneath you will find a Phillips/cross head screw, Carefully unscrew this and the lock ring, and notched ring and the spring will come apart. CAREFUL as that spring is under a lot of tension! getting it all back together will rewuire the use of a C clamp to overcome that tension. You will see that the spring assembly is governed by a locking ring whick travels on a coarse thread (it is easier to see than to describe) My only other advice is - WHY are you disassembling this part? I had to as there was/is a problem with it engaging with the lock mechanism inside the hub. I have just left it in FREE for the moment.
I hope this helps,
Steve United Kingdom '85 M1009

BINGO~! What a secret, huh? Thanks a million Steve and to answer you question as to why I'm doing this see the before and after pics: rusty, gritty, dirt filled hub knob aasembly, to a clean machine! In third pic you'll see that I indexed the moving pieces BEFORE taking them apart to ease re-assemly. Thank again Steve~!

 

[dmilkman589]

Im not seeing where this is in the TM...

 

[cpf240]

Im not seeing where this is in the TM...

Which TM are you looking in? Basic procedures are in the -20, and the more complex ones are in the -34. If it is not in the -20, always check the -34.

 

[TheTurtleM1008]

What is the number for the TM?