M1010 somebody talk me down

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cucvrus

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Did you put the injection pump on? I am asking how you have determined that it is new. New and sitting is just as bad as new and run hard. Both can be worn out the same. Is the injection pump wet at all externally?
 

riggermedic

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The IP looks shiny and new, and I have the receipt from the PO. Same with the injectors. Replaced in early February. It looks dry from the points that I can see. Just replaced both batteries and it starts great, took it around the block a few times turned it off let it sit for 10 min and it started up again ok, not great but it did start after 2 seconds.
i still plan on replacing everything mentioned above, but it seems to do good enough to go thru emissions and get my plate.
went with interstate group 31 1190 ca each, it had pro start group 24 750 ca that were load tested ok but weak.
how many amps does the direct drive starter draw?
 

riggermedic

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Phoenix AZ
Alternator assistance

image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgI'm doing the plan b mod, this trucks electrical has been a rat nest of electrical ineptitude. I've pulled all the non stock stuff out. My question is how to hook up the lower 24 volt alternator.
i have the following wires:
heavy gauge yellow, heavy gauge red and a medium gauge pink (with a brown fusible link). These are all hooked up to positive side of the alt.
3 ground wires on the negative side of the alt, 2 to the engine block and 1going to the harness.
1 small yellow and 1 small brown hooked up to the center stud.
i have 1 cut brown wire just hanging around and a medium gauge red that comes out of the harness then goes to the 24 volt bus.
this truck didn't have the top alt on when I got it. I think they removed the top alt and re connected all the wiring for it to the bottom alt.
can I just run my own ground to the engine, and a power to to the 24 volt bus, and I assume the small yellow and brown are for the exciter or ignition to tell the alt to turn on?
i need to get this done by tonight
thanks for all your help
 
Last edited:

riggermedic

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Phoenix AZ
Duvac removed and strawberry milkshake transfer case

I removed the Duvac and upgraded all the battery cables, glow plug bypass wire and 12 volt power wire. Added the plan b mod, and the dog head relay. Now apparently my low coolant light is on and my 24 volt gauge doesn't work. My 12 volt alt is charging at 14.3 volts but I don't think the 24 volt alt is working. I don't think the brown and yellow exciter wires are exciting the alt. I ran out of daylight (see above post). I removed all the add ons under the hood. The under dash is a true rat nest that will come next.
here is all I learned:
my front driver headlight has what appears to be a red wire that jumps off the double green wire ( this looks absolutely stock)this is a 3 foot length that goes nowhere, the out wire that I assume that goes to the right headlight is cut and taped. I don't know if my high beams work or not, but will check next week when I work on it again.
My non stock axels have no vent lines and the rear diff was spitting oil out of the top vent. This was topped off and vent line added.
my transfer has a vent line with cap on it. I went to check fluid level and strawberry milkshake came gushing out of the top fill hole. Did a full drain and got almost 2 gallons out...... For 5 qt capacity. The only thing I can think is water got into this thru the vent on top. The transmission is clean cherry juice. There is ALOT of powdery silt deposits on the frame rails an other collection sites, theory being some deep water fording? Truck came from Washington before Arizona?
next week will be fun to dive into the dash wiring and evict the gremlins from there.
 

Recovry4x4

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Sounds like you are attacking things head on. I'm wondering if the headlight wires were tapped for wig wags. If you take the simplistic approach doing one wire at a time like you are, eventually you will triumph. If your lower alternator ends up being toast, you can use the 12V Leece Neville there also. Since the alt is isolated ground, you can run it to charge only the back battery. Mine was done that way by member ChevyC60 and has been flawless for years.
 

riggermedic

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Wigwams would make perfect sense.... That's brilliant, thank you. I did find a flasher unit and a pair of needle nose pliers hidden in front of the coolant overflow bottle, I guess I should check the passenger side for the same wire. I did remove a second flasher unit that controlled the red lights mounted where the b/o drive light and nato slave were. These red lights were one of the few electrical things that actually worked when I got the truck. I have replacements to return the truck to stock. My new starter came in today, although I don't know if I really need it. It's a slow process, but exciting.
 

riggermedic

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pics

IMG_0245.jpgIMG_0246.jpgIMG_0247.jpgIMG_0248.jpgIMG_0249.jpg
pics of new cables, duvac gone, i have a few non stock wires going to the dash i need to trace before I remove them.
does anyone know what the light blue wire goes to in pic 5? it has a really funky looking connector on it.
 

jpg

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boston
It's tough to tell from your photo. To the right of photo 5 should be the fuel pump for your passenger heater. It's fed by a blue wire with a funky thing about the size of a lipstick in the circuit. Do you have a wire to your heater fuel pump?
 

riggermedic

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Location
Phoenix AZ
had a non stock yellow wire powering this, I unplugged it as there is no heater in back. the wire from the pump has a military rubber boot plug on it and the blue wire should reach it. the frustrating part of this is I cant test any of this electrical til I fix all the under dash rats nest. the schematics in the -34 are helpful but a little overwhelming sometimes. thanks for your help
 

riggermedic

Member
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Location
Phoenix AZ
Update .

today I tackled the lower alternator. I pulled the entire harness from that area. I had 2 glow plug wires for the front most 2 glow plugs coming off the bottom of the main harness, then the pink and green for the injector pump. Then what looks like the main harness ends in the top and bottom alt harnesses. These were both connected to the bottom alt. I removed and taped what should have gone to the top alt ( yellow, white, black with white tracer). The bottom alt harness has 2 reds (1 in the harness and 1 going to the 24 volt buss that was spliced in the middle), 2 Browns (1 with a ring connector the other is cut).
I basically taped all of it except the 2 Browns. One is what I hope to be an ignition wire, the other I don't know. Neither has voltage with the key off, on, or with the truck running.
the top alt positive goes strait to the front battery and is grounded to the engine.
the bottom alt positive I ran new wire to the 24 volt buss, and it is also grounded to the engine. All of this is 2 gauge wire.
while messing with all of this my right headlight stopped working, but my low coolant light now goes out like it should. My 24 volt gauge still doesn't work and the 10 amp fuse that powers it is good.
I do need to evict the gremlin from under the dash.
my question is concerning the 2 brown wires. What is the extra one and shouldn't the other show voltage with the ignition on? 12 or 24 volts?
Both alts are grounded to the the engine and the engine is grounded to the negative buss, should I run an additional ground directly to the negative buss?(as seen in the schematic)
Each battery reads 12.7 at rest. the top alt ( plan b mod) is charging at 14.3 volts. The 24 volt buss, both batteries, and the bottom alt positive reads 27 volts, and the rear battery reads 12.7 when the engine is running.
can I jump 12 volts to the lower alt ign spot to see if this will excite the alt?
sorry for all the questions and thanks for any help
 

riggermedic

Member
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Location
Phoenix AZ
Finally a success

Today I sat with the schematic and a highlighter (and a beer) and plodded thru how the electrical should be. I checked all the fuses and all were good. Previous to my Duvac removal the lower alt worked. Post removal, it stopped working, along with the low coolant light staying on, the 24 volt gauge stopped working, and suddenly my passenger headlight went out. I figured this was related to the Duvac removal in some form. Sometimes fixing or modifying one link in the chain causes the next weakest link to reveal itself. I removed the grill and the red wigwam lights that were placed by the PO where the BO drive light and nato slave were at and returned it to stock. Now at least I can slave start it if need be, this was done with 1/0 gauge.i cleaned up the headlights and got the passenger side working. The high beams were in fact cut to also do wigwam lights.the low coolant sensor was stretched and routed "funky" near the passenger side headlight, moving this to release tension seems to have fixed the low coolant light.the highlight of the day came when I traced that brown wire back to the 24 volt gauge relay. 12 volts in from the ignition switching 24 volts to the brown wire that powers both the gauge AND the lower alt ignition wire. 1 new relay later and my lower alt is now putting out 28.8 volts (29 after a 30 minute drive). The top plan b mod alt puts out 14.2 to 14.3. The gauge works but is slightly in the red overcharge area.the "whirring" sound that I attributed to the strawberry milkshake that came out of the transfer case is mostly gone, but does reappear at higher rpms on the freeway. Probably need another drain and refill to get all the water out.the rear diff is no longer leaking after the new vent line and the transfer case is no longer leaking from its vent.overall an incredibly successful day, now it's 6 more days of work until I get to do battle with the gremlin under the dash.
 

Recovry4x4

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I love your work ethic and determination. Slowly it comes together. I have the dual plan b mod (2 12v alts) and my gauge is just at the overcharge mark too. 3 years with no problems.
 

riggermedic

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Phoenix AZ
No drain

Truck has been parked for a week and I tested it today.... Batteries read 12.5 in front and 12.7 in rear, truck starts right up. I was concerned because my b/o and service drive switches have been butchered and bypassed. I have not even begun to look into the rat nest of wiring in the box. Apparently there is little to no drain. Front is charging at 14.2, rear at 14.6 and 28.9 at the buss.
Tomorrow I get to dive into the dash or maybe put my 1009 back together after installing dash speakers. We will see what I'm in the mood for. I am pleased that my truck can park for a week without issues
 

riggermedic

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Phoenix AZ
It has been a while since I have posted here.
Since my last post the 1010 (Bertha) blew her transmission, got it rebuilt. Had the transfer case looked at and new seals and a chain replaced. A new vacuum pump installed as the rebuilt transmission didn’t want to shift.

Then I learned via a “police encounter” that I cannot park a 1 ton truck on a public street after being threatened to be arrested. They loaded her up on a tow truck, but then put her back for me.

I am very happy to report that I successfully evicted the gremlin that was “squatting” in my M1010. She would start and drive just fine, but would just crank away without starting when she was warm.

The PO paid a shop to put on a new injector pump and new injectors and bought new batteries. that didn't fix the problem so he sold it to me.

Everything was pointing (in my mind) toward a fuel issue, but in fact it was just the starter. When she was warm you could turn her off and restart within the first 15 seconds, if not then she would crank away sounding strong, but not fire up.

I put a new gear reduction starter on and she fires up every time:-D

are the direct drive starters worth rebuilding?
 

KamikazeKunze

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Grand Junction, Colorado
Glad to hear you got her going. I just purchased an M1010 myself in Grand Junction. This post has inspired me to dig into the electrics a bit more and post pics of what’s been done to mine.
Bonus for me, my rear heater had fuel but would’t Fire. Now from this post I know it has its own fuel pump!!!!
my PO, cut the harness in two areas, when” converting” the electrical. But what I got is whack. Looks like I have one factory alternator, with my batteries wired in series and a black box that I think is a 24v-12v converter. She starts and runs beautifully, despite the hack. In Denver now back in GJ tomorrow and will post pics.

Thanks again for your post, very informative.


p.s. I’m planning on visiting friends I Gilbert the first week of June in my M1010. Maybe we can meet up.
 

cucvrus

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are the direct drive starters worth rebuilding?

In all my years with CUCV's I prefer the direct drive Over the 28MT gear reduction starter. It seems to hold up longer and that is after years of experience with various CUCV's. In the dirt and mud they are a definite A+. Have a great day. I hope you installed the starter support bracket on the 28 MT gear reduction starter also. That is an absolute requirement on all CUCV applications.
 

eme411

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don't forget that the gear reduction starter requires a heavier start relay as per GM service bulletin , ignore it at your own peril,
 

riggermedic

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Phoenix AZ
Thank you.
I did NOT know that it required a heavier starter relay.
I do have the doghead modification in place I’m assuming that’s heavy duty enough?
 
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