M1031 to RV tug..

Keith_J

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My life has changed quite a bit in the past 2 years, first I am flying solo again, second my job has me on the road for what they call short term assignments. Which is why I want to ditch the apartment life and tug my home behind my 1031.

My sights are set on a mid 20 foot bumper tow, I have the brake controller and weight distributing hitch already, the receiver hitch kit is on order and I have an Air Lift kit. Basically 5200 pounds dry, looking at 5600 with my gear and since I will be on shore power with water, no other weight issues. But having the 12 kW PTO generator and 55 gallon polydrum of water in the 1031, I could stand alone easily.

Yes, 155 HP is a bummer. So motivation improvement would be turning the IQ up with a dual pyrometer is the next step..water injection? Using 65% volumetric efficiency and 40 pounds of diesel per hour at 2000 RPM, the smoke limit should be around 55 pounds per hour which would require about 90 pounds of water per hour to keep EGT under 1200 F. Devils Own water injection makes a custom system running variable water injection quantity based on a 0-5 volt signal. This signal would be a composite of EGT, throttle position sensing and RPM. Should be worth 200 Hp..more like it!

Other musts are improved cooling with coolant flow mods, transmission cooler and possibly oil cooler. I'm going with 8" wide reproduction wheels covered in 255 85 R16s to correct the speedometer error. And get a bit more stability/load cap.

Not looking at more than 63 MPH so I will be bumper sucking off the JB Hunts, not running with the Sure Wished I Finished Training drivers :cool:

My 1031 has 22,000 miles on it, Ive put 13,000 of those miles on it in the 6 years I've owned it. Trouble free for the most part. Need to R&R the injection pump soon too, just seals and EID issue.
 

richingalveston

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how much is the water system. would a banks system do you better. If you end up in some higher altitudes, i think the turbo would be a better investment.
 

Keith_J

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The turbo is a plus BUT it requires battery, intake and exhaust modifications. The PTO governor system must stay, the generator is reconnectable to 100 amps of 120 volt single phase which is perfect for my RV plus two more. If I move the engine forward 1.75" to fit a 4L80 transmission, it would have space for a twin turbo setup which wouldn't interfere with the governor, battery and intake. But the fab would require custom headers, turbo oil return, intake and compressor outlet plumbing.

Yes, altitude might be an issue if I get assigned west of the Rockies..Colorado, Utah and Oregon are possible assignments. Right now I am Texas, Tennessee, Oklahoma, Georgia and Kentucky.

The water injection system is 435$. I have a vacuum converter for throttle position, just need to tap an alternator for tach. A 30$ Arduino with dual type K thermocouple input and half a day of programming will do the rest to get the 0-5 volt signal output.
 
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NDT

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Simple answer is a HMMWV pull out GEP 6.5/4L80E with GM side mount turbo from a 90's pickup. Keep the HMMWV mechanical IP, just go to 12 volt solenoids.
 

Keith_J

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Side mount turbo manifold studs are different? Like I was saying, 22k original miles. No way to get a fresher engine.

I have a killer TIG welder, know thin carbon, stainless and aluminum welding. I have a tube bender. Why not do a custom one-off low pressure twin turbo? I'm thinking KO3s off a 1998 VW TDI 1.9 diesel would be perfect size. Good for 100 HP, two would be perfect for this application. Even better would be a VNT-15 but the control would require yet another Arduino with RPM, throttle position and MAP sensor output driving a PWM vacuum regulator. A little harder to program as I don't have an accurate volumetric efficiency map. Or part throttle fuel slope (3 dimensional fuel map, I have WOT fuel curve).

Ive hauled a GCVW of 16,800 pounds with this vehicle (double axle flatbed loaded with construction debris) plus had the same trailer loaded with 14' of brush (eldest former step son doing community service). Both were fine on the highway at 55 MPH, not too bad up hills compared to loaded 40 yard dump trucks.

Being single again, I have more time and most importantly, a clear head. And a bit more money in the bank. But the truck has to stay functional, diesel and same engine series. A 4L80 transmission is almost a must, only because the lockup torque converter will greatly reduce transmission heat.
 

ken

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Try opening up the intake and exhaust first. The hole in the air filter housing is pretty small for a 380CI V8. These engines are starving for air, then they are forced to push the exhaust through small pipes 20 feet long. I made a ram air intake with parts from a 1993 6.2. I went with 2 1/2 inch exhaust that ends just before the rear axle. I turned up the IP 1/4 turn and it will easily spin the tires leaving a stop sign. Yes 155HP is pretty low. But they can we woke up a bit. No It will never accelerate like a Duramax, but you can find more power with out spending $$$$$ on a banks.IMG_0417.jpg
 

Keith_J

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Roger on the intake side. When the manifold is off for the injection pump, I am going to port match the manifold to heads and gasket trim. Already have the carbide burr set to adjust the manifold. This is also for water injection reasons.
 

Keith_J

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Hitch? Draw Tite 41938 arrives today. This is a class V, go big or go home. I'm looking at a trailer brake actuating sway control unit which goes between the 7 way electrical and trailer. I need to get the hitch tongue weight distributing brackets and the correct round bar springs. It will be slow but it will be safe. This rig will have far more dog than tail.

Probably need to work on the rear brake pressure regulator as I will be installing an Air Lift rear suspension system.
 

LT67

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Side mount turbo manifold studs are different? Like I was saying, 22k original miles. No way to get a fresher engine.

I have a killer TIG welder, know thin carbon, stainless and aluminum welding. I have a tube bender. Why not do a custom one-off low pressure twin turbo? I'm thinking KO3s off a 1998 VW TDI 1.9 diesel would be perfect size. Good for 100 HP, two would be perfect for this application. Even better would be a VNT-15 but the control would require yet another Arduino with RPM, throttle position and MAP sensor output driving a PWM vacuum regulator. A little harder to program as I don't have an accurate volumetric efficiency map. Or part throttle fuel slope (3 dimensional fuel map, I have WOT fuel curve).

Ive hauled a GCVW of 16,800 pounds with this vehicle (double axle flatbed loaded with construction debris) plus had the same trailer loaded with 14' of brush (eldest former step son doing community service). Both were fine on the highway at 55 MPH, not too bad up hills compared to loaded 40 yard dump trucks.

Being single again, I have more time and most importantly, a clear head. And a bit more money in the bank. But the truck has to stay functional, diesel and same engine series. A 4L80 transmission is almost a must, only because the lockup torque converter will greatly reduce transmission heat.
If I'm correct, the GEP center mounted turbo has heads that will not accept an intake manifold from a naturally aspirated engine. Hence get a N/A GEP 6.5 and the find the parts from a 90's side mounted turbo.
 

Keith_J

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Not interested in a center or side mount. Plus the old school single turbos and huge monsters. I am thinking after getting the 4L80 in and sliding the engine forward 1.75", I should have enough room in the backs of the cylinder heads for two small VNT-17s with trim for a 2.5-3 liter direct injected turbo diesel. This means fab of manifolds, these would be stainless steel tube welded in a modified log style. Turbo control seems to be easier than expected using the transmission vacuum regulator and boost sense as a negative feed back. The 4L80 transmission would not use the regulated vacuum so that could be adjusted along with a regulated feed of boost pressure.

Still a lot of plumbing aside from the manifolds. But having two small variable geometry turbos over a single slow unit that is wastegate controlled would mean almost zero boost lag.
 

Keith_J

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16x8 wheels came in. Going with 255 85 16 tires in a 123Q construction (3400 pound load at 80 PSI). Also received the Paradox coolant bypass. My weekend starts on Sunday.
 

Keith_J

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Wheels are going to work, I went with 8" wide 16" steel reproductions with 4" offset, they are going to be flush with the fenders for a mean look.

I have too much to do, not enough time to do it. These are musts:

1. New tires
2. New batteries
3. Air Ride suspension
4. Class V hitch
5. Injection pump

Future wants:
1. 4L80 transmission
2. Water injection
3. Dual turbocharging with VNT20s
4. Repaint
 

gimpyrobb

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I got Monroe shocks for my truck(2000) with airbags built in for like $80 shipped. Might be a good option to look into.
 

Keith_J

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I got Monroe shocks for my truck(2000) with airbags built in for like $80 shipped. Might be a good option to look into.
Would save install time but they aren't made for this truck. I doubt the stock mounts are strong enough. The Air Lift system I got replaces the overload spring on the 1031 which helps stability. And even though it is limited to 100 PSI, it provides more leveling force and reduces unsprung mass.
 

Keith_J

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The hitch is installed. Only 4 holes to drill! The front two required reaming, just a few thousandths removed. The middle 4 were full drilling. I did a 9/16" drill with a modified split point which spotted and drilled with ease. Still nasty but minimal force.

The problem is the frame extensions for the rear tow rings. The frame extensions will have to be modified to accommodate the new bolts and the hitch frame. I have some 1/8" wall 2" square tube that will be welded to the cut off frame extensions. Tube because that is what I have with equal or greater section modulus. The bolts will attach to a single wall., a hole of sufficient diameter will provide access for the socket.

Pictures to follow!

The air bags are in, ride height is perfect. Tires are still in shipment. 255-85 16s .
 

LT67

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16x8 wheels came in. Going with 255 85 16 tires in a 123Q construction (3400 pound load at 80 PSI). Also received the Paradox coolant bypass. My weekend starts on Sunday.
I'm running KM2's in that size on my 86 M1008 @ 65lbs pressure. Those tires do very well off road... they can get some traction. Money well spent..
 

Recovry4x4

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I'm running KM2's in that size on my 86 M1008 @ 65lbs pressure. Those tires do very well off road... they can get some traction. Money well spent..
I have 255 KM2a on 7" Ford rims. I've ran them on my SECM but they were bought for my M1010. No complaints thus far. Had them for many years.
 
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