M1031 to RV tug..

Steel Soldiers is supported by:

Keith_J

Active member
2,900
9
38
Location
Schertz TX
Cooper ST Maxx in 255/85R16 are excellent. No noise, great traction on road.1120181109.jpg

255s will not rub IF DRMO didn't modify the fenders..just a light diddling of the left aft fender liner due to forklift abuse. A little metal massage with a dolly will eliminate this, no tire damage, just a little dirt buffed off.

1120181108.jpg1114181502_Burst03.jpg

I had one sudden stop, yellow light on 45 MPH road with red light cameras. No drama except for the groceries on the seat. No noise or lockup. The blocks are stout enough to prevent rolling.

They seem to wander a bit so I will monitor the vent sprue wear and consider a bit more toe out. Might need a bit more lift in the front which will help caster. I have a quick and dirty solution, some overload springs I had purchased for the rear.

The Air Lift suspension is better than could be expected. I thought it would make the ride rough but that was not the case. Yes, it reduced total travel but the progressive rate was not harsh at all. Putting a pressure reservoir in the lines would reduce the spring rate without affecting ride height variation. The bottom line is the headlights aim correctly, might need some fine tune. Front spring mod will see..

The hitch is fully installed, got the spare tire relocated 4" forward. Not perfect but it works for now. More pictures in the AM. It really ties the rear of the frame together. Worth the 73 pounds.
 
Last edited:

Keith_J

Active member
2,900
9
38
Location
Schertz TX
I'm going for small twins. Turbos are based on engine power. A single Banks is good for 200+ horsepower. A VNT 15 is good for 100 horsepower. Less than half the size too.

Now after a week back on the road as a commute (25 miles to work), I found the following issues:

1. Poor economy. 11 MPG.

2. Boil over without coolant temperature idiot light at indicated 65+ MPH

3. Low power

There is no coolant in oil or oil in coolant. Coolant system holds pressure and doesn't pressurize unless driven hard. So I don't see a head gasket or cracked cylinder head. The only place I find coolant spill is on the left side front suspension, right where the overflow tank vent would spray.

I have yet to install the cylinder head bypass system purchased from a member..CRS kicking in full bore after five days of 11 hour shifts. All signs point to retarded injection timing. And there is a reason.


When I purchased this vehicle from my rich uncle (Sam), I noticed Able Body Company had incorrectly wired the governor control, feeding 12 volts to the injection pump green wires (cold fast idle and timing advance) instead of feeding the fat pink wire (shut off solenoid). The purpose here is to shut the engine off if there is an overspeed with the generator running (SECM only).


I noticed the injection pump has some orange and green paint. This isn't the original, it is a JP8 hardened pump. So it had been timed using zero case pressure with the cold advance solenoid constantly energized.

I had disconnected this wire, meaning the timing has been retarded. This is why the engine is running hot and why fuel economy has been poor. I used to get 15 MPG.

In the morning, I am going to make things correct. Check timing and set a tad advanced based on ear and feel. Then install the back bank bypass, flush cooling system and replace the thermostat.
 

joshuak

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
638
15
18
Location
Slower shore, DE
A few questions, you mention checking timing based on ear and feel. Sounds like experience. Any advice for the uninitiated?

Your airbags, did they replace the bump stops on the rear and how do you fill them up and empty them?

On board tools, storage actively used at work? Is the on board genny and compressor enough for your needs?

Thanks
 

Keith_J

Active member
2,900
9
38
Location
Schertz TX
The air bags replaced the top overload spring. I routed the fill hose to the vertical bolt hole in the frame extensions, providing a good mounting location.1122181520a.jpg1122181522.jpg\

I am driving the truck to work just to get it back on the road. And show off. Not a single tool used at work (now)

Timing by ear uses the light load timing advance lever on the right side of the pump to advance the timing, listening to the clatter and idle speed variation.

https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63-gm-diesel-engines/20-6-2l-diesel-engine/137208-6-2-timing-clatter.htmlhttps://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63-gm-diesel-engines/20-6-2l-diesel-engine/137208-6-2-timing-clatter.html
 
Last edited:

Keith_J

Active member
2,900
9
38
Location
Schertz TX
More pictures1122181520.jpg1122181519.jpg


Two receiver hitches? Going to make a spare tire carrier for the top for when I get a flat on the 33s. They will not fit under. Yes, 31" spare.
 

Mad Texan

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
207
24
18
Location
Chester County, PA
Cooper ST Maxx in 255/85R16 are excellent. No noise, great traction on road.

They seem to wander a bit so I will monitor the vent sprue wear and consider a bit more toe out. Might need a bit more lift in the front which will help caster.
These are great tires! I have run a couple of sets on my daily driver F150 in the 255/80/17 variety. They wander a bit when they are new and take some miles (heat cycles) to come around. When I first switched from the 285/70/17's that were old and very stiff to these, I had a few surprises on the back roads where I wondered when the truck would turn into the corner. With some miles the sidewalls stiffened up some and they are great! YMMV
 

Keith_J

Active member
2,900
9
38
Location
Schertz TX
I would rather have a twitchy feel than dead for now. I'm an attentive driver, all these new vehicles with lane departure sensors are making people lazy. Twitchy is maneuverable. When you try to make the world idiot proof, nature comes up with a better idiot.

Now looking at Stan's Headers for a potential power improvement..going to search.
 

dependable

Active member
1,586
19
38
Location
Tisbury, Massachusetts
Now after a week back on the road as a commute (25 miles to work), I found the following issues:
1. Poor economy. 11 MPG.
2. Boil over without coolant temperature idiot light at indicated 65+ MPH
3. Low power

1.The box on 1031 will always get you noticeably worse mileage than pickup.

2. Probably cooling system needs work, I haul a medium equipment trailer with a 1008 and it does not overheat.

3. Low power what you get with 6.2, one can soup it up on the margins but the motor was designed to run around 150 HP, try to get more than that & I predict engine life will be shortened.
 
Last edited:

Keith_J

Active member
2,900
9
38
Location
Schertz TX
Keith,

Are you going to start attending events? We're only about 5 months away from Muster Day and the Temple air show!

Scott
Yep. Single now and got lots of vacation, paid time off and unpaid time off. Plus I have spending cash..if you couldn't tell. I get plenty of ideas at work.."..wow, aftermarket heated seats? How about leather?".

5 months? Should have the AC running again. And a paint job. Now after the 33s are on, I am thinking of a 2" lift and 35s. When these wear out.
 

Keith_J

Active member
2,900
9
38
Location
Schertz TX
And yet another issue..my electric air conditioning system sprung a leak, leading me to abandon it. Not needed much this time of year so I have time to plan.

This AC runs on the 24 volt system, driving a standard automotive compressor direct drive from a brush type permanent magnet motor. It spins at 3000 RPM, a bit too fast unless the truck is at highway speed so it over-pressured the high side at idle. I found a PWM motor speed controller which will also put the motor in a more efficient speed/load range which will reduce the power draw.
 

Keith_J

Active member
2,900
9
38
Location
Schertz TX
I "bumped" the injection timing by reconnecting the cold start timing advance to a switched 12 volt source (the SECM install had incorrectly done this). Wow, that 5 degrees of advance is awesome! Also beneficial to exhaust gas temperature and economy. A little more clatter, especially when cold. I could tell when the thermostat opened as the clatter goes down and cabin heat drops..such is the nature of a sticking and sluggish thermostat. Got a new Gates in yesterday, going to get up early to install.
 

LT67

Member
178
2
18
Location
Bowdon, GA
I "bumped" the injection timing by reconnecting the cold start timing advance to a switched 12 volt source (the SECM install had incorrectly done this). Wow, that 5 degrees of advance is awesome! Also beneficial to exhaust gas temperature and economy. A little more clatter, especially when cold. I could tell when the thermostat opened as the clatter goes down and cabin heat drops..such is the nature of a sticking and sluggish thermostat. Got a new Gates in yesterday, going to get up early to install.
Keep an eye on that Gates thermostat.... the new one in my freshly rebuilt 406sbc already needs replaced with 3K on the engine.
 

Keith_J

Active member
2,900
9
38
Location
Schertz TX
Guess a coolant temperature gauge is in order. Running out of room for instrumentation. Yes, I could swap the over temp idiot light with a gauge but I want to keep the blackout capability. Don't know if the over temp light is disabled in blackout..diesels don't overheat at 5 MPH road march speed..

Pod it is. Down by the STE-ICE port.
 

Keith_J

Active member
2,900
9
38
Location
Schertz TX
Relearning the wiring diagrams for the EGT gauge install. I need switched power and instrument lights, red circuit 3 and gray circuit 8 should do respectively. Yes, I have a voltmeter and know how to use it ;) Gauge going next to voltmeter.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks