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M1101/02 trailers: I need to change the wheels and need the exact size

tobyS

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Just curious, but in what situation do you not want the surge brakes? I converted an M1101 into a brush fire trailer with a 200 gallon water tank and a pump and hose reel... The surge brakes were really smoothly, with no detectable banging or clunking or "surging".

So far as I can tell, they don't work much at all in reverse, because I've backed it up some pretty steep hills, and through ditches without trouble...
First, is because my fitting was so hard coming out that now I have to re-plump it. But I want to have the use of it without brakes around my farm and don't want the actuator pushing on the MC while it's not fixed properly. The bolt stops the heavy actuator arm from pushing on the cylinder. It appeared in the past that mine had bent a couple of internal parts of the actuator, so I wanted to fix them and go to the rest later.

There are probably more than mine out there that have less than fully functioning brakes which wear the MC and let the trailer move forward until it bottoms out the cylinder and bends or stops the trailer. I like having a hole to lock out the movement of the actuator in the housing. Shearing two sides of a 3/8 bolt would take a lot of load.

These brakes have the Dexter "free reversing" in them, that releases on backing up. I guess that means we have no brakes going backward.
 
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Tinstar

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The surge brakes are great when properly maintained.
Most surplus trailers I’ve seen, the surge brakes have been neglected/ignored.
Luckily factor parts are still readily available.

I just hauled several loads of gravel in my M101A2, averaging about 2 tons per load.
Heaviest was 2.46 tons.
Surge brakes worked flawlessly.
Springs were maxed out of course.

I also upgraded both my M101A2’s with factory Dexter FreeBack Brake assembly’s.
No more locking out the surge assembly when backing up a loaded trailer uphill.

The lockout hole is there for a reason.
Just don’t use anything less than a grade 8 bolt or pin.
It will bend a grade 5 bolt. Then have fun removing it.


A lot of guys choose to not fix the surge brakes or remove it entirely.
Some install electric brakes.
To each his own.
There are countless reasons to use the lockout hole.

Their trailers.......Their rules.
 

Coug

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Are you're saying, you just replaced the original tires with GM 16 steel rims/wheels ?
that is what is being said.

The bolt pattern is 8 on 6.5. Wheels 16" diameter or larger needed.

Offset isn't that important.

Older Ford trucks, GM trucks, and many others used this bolt pattern for a long time. Most newer trucks run metric sizes, but 8 on 6.5 is still a common size to find.
 

MikeLinares

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GM 16 steelies work and look good.
8 on 6.5 and fit the hub well.
The pictured ones have a chrome face that can be removed
or plain painted can be found.

Newer GM changed to metric too.
that is what is being said.

The bolt pattern is 8 on 6.5. Wheels 16" diameter or larger needed.

Offset isn't that important.

Older Ford trucks, GM trucks, and many others used this bolt pattern for a long time. Most newer trucks run metric sizes, but 8 on 6.5 is still a common size to find.
Thank you very much for this info
 

tobyS

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My local car scrapper sells me these tires and wheels for only $25. You should find similar deal. Always buy in pairs or double check tires are same condition and size. If they want more than $50.....move on.
 
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