M116A3 Fix-up & Conversion Thread

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Tinstar

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Alright so the Monroe shock came in yesterday.
View attachment 769491View attachment 769492

Long story short... close but no cigar. Was worth the try!

The very difference in size for the mounting points gave me a hard time but could be done.
View attachment 769489View attachment 769488

I was able to force it onto the front mounting point but then quickly realized that the shroud would be in the way. Not really a big deal as it could be cut off & that's what I did as you can see in the above pictures.
View attachment 769490

Where it all fell apart was when I went to put it back together.

Hard to explain, but since the OEM shock had the slight tapers on the tube, it gave the slightest bit more room for the spring to let the pointed part that goes into the cylinder line up to go where it's supposed to. The slightly bigger mounting point up front also restricted it's movement. I tried for about an hour all kinds of different things to get it in with no luck. I think if the master cylinder was removed that it would be done that way... but I wasn't willing to go that far. Brakes are bled & working so I don't want to mess with that.

For the time being, I'm just going to keep the shock out & the pin in so the brakes are just locked out.
View attachment 769493

May tackle it again to see if I can get it to work at some point. Might just order the expensive part if I get some other projects taken care of.

On a bright note, I'm a little closer to getting my tank! Once I get it mounted up, I need to decide if I want to go woodland with the stuff put on the trailer or sand with the trailer to make everything match....
Thank you for the update.
It is appreciated.

You are one of many that have tried to use a different, cheaper shock only to realize it will not work.

The original design shock is probably so expensive because it’s the only one that will fit that surge assembly correctly.
Sucks, but it is what it is.
 

Zed254

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Tinstar: do you recall anyone trying this shock?? Titan shock: https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories.../T1242600.html . It's an actual trailer dampener shock, extend/collapse dimensions look good, but the bolt connections are not cushioned and are oversized when compared to the 7/16" of the 1844-2. Free shipping here: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Surge-Bra...2600/443722861 and shows connection ends as 5/8" and 7/8". This one is used on the M1101/M1102 trailers. Lowe's has some bushings that should work to get the hole sized to 7/16....but with no rubber cushion.
I did not see any SS posts regarding the M1101 shock used/altered to fit for the M116A3.
 

Tinstar

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Many have tried different shocks.
I do not remember them all and the search function here isn’t 100%.

Try it and see.
It would be great to see someone find a solution that works correctly.

I agree with everyone else that the shock is too expensive for what it is.
At least factory parts are still available for the surge brake assembly.
 
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tobyS

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Surge brake assembly on the M1101 is about the same. Here are a few details. I put the bolt to block travel of the plunger arm like you did with the pin.

I found that mine was probably ran with no fluid for a while as it was bent inside on several parts. Some TLC and it's like new....except I still have the bolt in to stop the plunger because I have extended the tongue and need longer brake line.
 

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CallMeColt

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Surge brake assembly on the M1101 is about the same. Here are a few details. I put the bolt to block travel of the plunger arm like you did with the pin.

I found that mine was probably ran with no fluid for a while as it was bent inside on several parts. Some TLC and it's like new....except I still have the bolt in to stop the plunger because I have extended the tongue and need longer brake line.
I like that adjustable tongue mount. Want to find that part for mine.
 

CallMeColt

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Tank came in Thursday as expected. Didn't get to even open it until today. House was hit with lightening this week & have been dealing with repairs.

Did mount the tank today! Tabs lined right up as I measured. Had to trim one a bit to get the right angle ball valve on. No big deal. Nice & solid. Even empty, no crazy vibration sounds with the generator running.

67145994_503301483743058_2651783735640326144_n.jpg67260022_588363055021184_1439615433517826048_n.jpg67396451_551797548687114_3629030164328873984_n.jpg

Chickens were interested.
67490913_2125686484395265_8076727717145346048_n.jpg

I plan to get a 3ft hose that has 90deg elbow 5/16 37deg JIC fitting at one end to connect to the generator auxiliary connection & another straight 5/16 37deg JIC fitting that will connect to a nipple I already have to attach the the ball valve. Easy way to keep the generator running for a long time. Also can be quickly removed from the generator & the longer fuel lines be run to my truck if need be.

Also going to put a pump on the other bung of the tank so I can fill my diesel tractor & ATV easily with it.

Once I get that stuff done, I will post another update.
 
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Sgt Jiggins

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Do you mind my asking what capacity tank you bought? Would you be willing to share dimensions and order info?

I may need to remove the existing 'tool box' from the front of my M116A3, but otherwise that looks like a solid option. I like having the fuel onboard as opposed to having to haul around additional tanks/barrels.
 

CallMeColt

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Do you mind my asking what capacity tank you bought? Would you be willing to share dimensions and order info?

I may need to remove the existing 'tool box' from the front of my M116A3, but otherwise that looks like a solid option. I like having the fuel onboard as opposed to having to haul around additional tanks/barrels.
Sure!

Aluminum Tank Industries model ATI-TTR50 with the tabs welded in a different place so they match the rails on the trailer.

Here are the dimensions that I ordered. It is a 50 gallon tank.
Custom Tank.jpg


Here is a link to where I ordered from;
https://www.tankandbarrel.com/rectangle-refueling-tanks-ati-ttr50-ati-50-gallon-rectangle-refueling-tank-p-1209.html

I first contacted the manufacturer directly to ask how much extra it would be for the tabs to be moved. They said it wouldn't be extra since there really isn't anything special to setup. The price from Tank & Barrel was much cheaper so I ordered from them noting that I had already contacted the manufacturer about it so they would note my request. They send a sheet for you to sign confirming the custom dimensions.

Tank shipped via FedEx Ground so there was no freight concerns. Came packaged very well. Also came with a fuel fill cap so that was a plus... wasn't expecting one.

I didn't get it painted because I plan to paint everything on the trailer once it's finished.

This is a great option over bringing fuel jugs. You will get 100+ hours of operation with this fuel tank on board.
 

Tinstar

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If you plan to tow it on public roads at all, you might check with your states DOT.
A lot of new rule changes have come out about fuel tank transport.

Just FYI
 

CallMeColt

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If you plan to tow it on public roads at all, you might check with your states DOT.
A lot of new rule changes have come out about fuel tank transport.

Just FYI

ATI has the DOT Exemption approval with them so they're approved for on road transport. There's a large placard on the side for it... part of the reason why the tank is so much more costly than other options. Doesn't mean there hasn't been rule changes. I'm calling about dyed diesel permit from the state Monday... I will ask them when I do.
 

Sgt Jiggins

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Hey Zed,

Thank you for the link. I’m familiar with dyed diesel. I use it on everything that isn’t road-related. Perhaps it’s a case of different state laws, but I’m unfamiliar with any requirements calling for permits, hence my question.

Thank you,
SJ
 

Tinstar

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ATI has the DOT Exemption approval with them so they're approved for on road transport. There's a large placard on the side for it... part of the reason why the tank is so much more costly than other options. Doesn't mean there hasn't been rule changes. I'm calling about dyed diesel permit from the state Monday... I will ask them when I do.
Good!
Thank you for the info.

I didn’t want anyone getting a pricey DOT ticket.
 

CallMeColt

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What does the dyed diesel permit allow for?
I guess since it was being abused in Texas, they make you request a permit number in order to buy off-road diesel. It doesn't cost anything to have but you have to apply. Similar to how you need to apply for an agriculture number here in order to not pay sales tax instead of just being able to say so like it used to be. More government red tape.
 

CallMeColt

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Did a little more work today.

Fuel pump, filter, & hose fittings installed. Had to modify the suction piping on the pump since it was to long. Removed the telescoping part, trimmed it to 3/4in above the tank bottom, & cut 2 V's into it. Sprayed the tank a bit to see how the pain will coat.
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Added the JIC fitting that I had to the drain valve.

Went to O'Riley's & had a hydraulic hose made with what I though were the right fittings... only one was. Apparently the JIC fitting I had was a 1/4 (-4AN) JIC fitting & I made both ends that size. The fitting on the generator is a 5/16 (-5AN) JIC fitting. Dang! I did know that ahead of time but mistakenly thought my fitting I had to put on the tank was 5/16 JIC. Should have confirmed with my existing hoses.

I did happen to find an adapter on eBay. It's a 5/16 JIC female to 1/4 JIC male adapter. Going to order it & it should be good to go.
Filled the tank with ~ 47 gallons of fuel & it's good to go. No leaks. Pumped a bunch of fuel through the pump to test all that work. No leaks.
 
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CallMeColt

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Did some work today. Added picture of the pump setup to my last post.

Biggest thing I did was install the proper damper shock for the surge brakes.
67362888_474437129784014_7827622040633868288_n.jpg
The main reason why I think this shock is different than others similar is that it really isn't a shock... it's just a damper. It will no spring in or out... it just dampens the movement. For example, it came pressed all the way in. Takes a lot of effort to pull it out, but it will stay pulled out. My guess is this is to not only help with the brakes as we all know, but to lessen the jerk of the trailer when starting as well. Nifty.

Adapter came in & I got the hose hooked up. Works out great!
67206966_431232654144823_3451040268541755392_n.jpg67176117_377866839596827_2145138909388996608_n.jpg67121459_354862765188982_1323743563833409536_n.jpg

Dyed diesel permit is submitted... just waiting to get a number back.
 
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Tinstar

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So how much did the shock, 1844-2, from Mendenhall Industries cost?
Their website doesn’t say.

Croft Trailer has the lowest price available that I’m aware of.
 
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