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M135 S and M Build

gentrysgarage

Active member
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118
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Location
Lost Angels, CA
I wanted to start brainstorming on my M135 project.
The long story is https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?170096-Houston-we-have-problems-the-M135-came-home&highlight=

The short story is the parts truck is in way better shape than the project
truck a Guido-fied (an Italian Bubba) 1943 G-7123 in my avatar. So it gets put on the back burner for now and all the parts I accumulated for it will be put into the M135, the parts include:
Cummins P7100 6BTA
SAE 2 Flywheel housing and dual disc clutch
Eaton FS-6046 (with a gear change for the Overdive 6th gear...wrecking yard sent wrong tranny, but made it right with new OD gears).
5.43 gears and new bearings for the axles
2 inch Hydromax booster and a master being built by Tim at Precision Rebuilders (Thanks JesusGatos for a great write-up and referral!)
HF 54 power steering gearbox (Thanks to the numerous write-ups here!)
M35A2 wiring harness (this comes with the turn signal pigtails)
Ford F550 calipers and B700 rotors
G177 11x20 tires (Thanks Memphis Equipment)
10 ton Anthony hoist off a WW2 SeaBee Hercules
The parts to be sourced are:
M35 Brake and clutch pedal assembly
Bendix TF 550/750 brake air compressor
Bed


The plan is for a daily driver that is "compliant" with Uniform Code laws that have sadly been exported from here in Commifornia to a state near you. This is the Sadista oart of the title. This entails a less than 9' bed (going to be 8'11 15/16") length. Singling the rear tandem and making **** sure it is under 264" OA. If I don't do these in Los Angeles I can only park on the street for 2 hours max, can't be parked in my driveway (would have to rent a spot on commercial land). I will not cut the frame and make any modifications as reversible as possible. I will make up for the lost bed length with a 5 ton spare tire carrier and davit and extending the cab for a rear seat not crew cabbing, just "extra cabbing".

The project is second in line behind the wife's 1972 Gran Torino ....but I will be sneaking work in here and there!

IMG_2867.jpg

Thanks in Advance!
 
Last edited:

Merle

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Salmon, Idaho
W ow----what a list. You have your ducks in a row. Quite a project. Would like to see it when your done. Would like to see a picture of the torino when you get it finished. I bought myself a new torino in 1971 with the cobra kit, what a car. It didn't start running good until you hit 80. Wish I still had it.
 

gentrysgarage

Active member
553
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Location
Lost Angels, CA
Thanks Merle

W ow----what a list. You have your ducks in a row. Quite a project. Would like to see it when your done. Would like to see a picture of the torino when you get it finished. I bought myself a new torino in 1971 with the cobra kit, what a car. It didn't start running good until you hit 80. Wish I still had it.
I have been collecting parts for a LONG time! Your car was built for one thing SPEED!!!!!! Beautiful car that one is!

I got really lucky yesterday and got a companion flange spicer discontinued 4 years ago and the driveline shops I contacted couldn't get it!
spicer.jpg
[SIZE=-1]Companion Flange - Splined Bore
1550 series, Ø1.998x38 spline, Ø2.750 hub diameter
4xØ.500 Holes on 4.750BC, Ø3.750-M pilot[/SIZE]




U-Joint Series1550
Spline Major DiameterD1.998
Spline Count38.000
Spline TypeInvolute Spline
Pilot Bore DiameterC3.750-M
Bolt Circle DiameterB4.750
Bolt Circle Hole Diameter
(D = Drilled, T = Tapped)
.500 D
Number of Holes4.000
Brake Pilot Diameter0.000
Ground Hub DiameterE2.750
Length Thru BoreF2.062
Flange Face to End of HubG3.875
Bare Flange Part Number (if assembly)SPI-4-1-6041
Slinger Part Number (if assembly)


Also won this:
fording.jpg
I plan for a 1950's mechanical version of RustyStud's fording project
 

Merle

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Salmon, Idaho
Great on getting that flange, I'll have to do some research on RustyStud's fording project.
 

Merle

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Salmon, Idaho
Just pulled up RustyStud's fording project, with my feeble pea brain that is going to take some studying and contemplating on my part.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,071
2,388
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
I have been collecting parts for a LONG time! Your car was built for one thing SPEED!!!!!! Beautiful car that one is!

I got really lucky yesterday and got a companion flange spicer discontinued 4 years ago and the driveline shops I contacted couldn't get it!
View attachment 701562
[SIZE=-1]Companion Flange - Splined Bore
1550 series, Ø1.998x38 spline, Ø2.750 hub diameter
4xØ.500 Holes on 4.750BC, Ø3.750-M pilot[/SIZE]





U-Joint Series
1550
Spline Major Diameter
D
1.998
Spline Count
38.000
Spline Type
Involute Spline
Pilot Bore Diameter
C
3.750-M
Bolt Circle Diameter
B
4.750
Bolt Circle Hole Diameter
(D = Drilled, T = Tapped)
.500 D
Number of Holes
4.000
Brake Pilot Diameter
0.000
Ground Hub Diameter
E
2.750
Length Thru Bore
F
2.062
Flange Face to End of Hub
G
3.875
Bare Flange Part Number (if assembly)
SPI-4-1-6041
Slinger Part Number (if assembly)


Also won this:
View attachment 701561
I plan for a 1950's mechanical version of RustyStud's fording project
It's funny that your thinking that way. At first I was going to go totally mechanical, but I needed to control the electric radiator fans, (I haven't finished that part yet, though I have all the parts now) and that required an electric switch. I almost used an old IHC dual fuel control switch. It is a pull cable that also controls a switch for the fuel sender units. The problem is that cable-switch was discontinued in the 1970's ! I have an old one but didn't trust it for this project.
 

Section8

Member
503
6
18
Location
Little Fort, B.C., Canada
Gentrysgarage, awesome research and parts collecting/sourcing.
Your project sounds cool! Pretty close to my own aside from the pesky laws you have to abide by.
I have a cummins 12v with the old VE pump(modified), old spicer 5 speed, single mass clutch with SAE#2 bellhousing, 2 inch hydro max with master cylinder. ..
My question to you is this.
Where dis you find 5.38 gears for your axles??!!
All I have been able to find are 5.43 that were made for these axles and they are as rare as hens teeth. With the large price on them to match.
 

gentrysgarage

Active member
553
118
43
Location
Lost Angels, CA
Ahhh I think I have been looking at too many Jeeps, it is 5.43 I will correct above! Only one shop has them it seems...I sold a truck to buy them. :-(
And yes so similar and I would have left the VE pump on mine if I had bought my 92 D250 earlier, it makes enough power for the project...I guess I'll have just a wee bit extra UMPH! LOL!!
 

Section8

Member
503
6
18
Location
Little Fort, B.C., Canada
Here is question for you gentrysgarage.
How big is the centre hole on the B700? brake rotors you plan to use for your upgrade?
The ones I sourced for an older ford f750 had centre holes that were just small enough as to interfere with mounting on the spindle.
Rather I believe someone else did the conversion and posted that the rotors would not mount over the axle flange and needed to be milled out a bit.
Might be worth checking out.
 

gentrysgarage

Active member
553
118
43
Location
Lost Angels, CA
Here is question for you gentrysgarage.
How big is the centre hole on the B700? brake rotors you plan to use for your upgrade?
The ones I sourced for an older ford f750 had centre holes that were just small enough as to interfere with mounting on the spindle.
Rather I believe someone else did the conversion and posted that the rotors would not mount over the axle flange and needed to be milled out a bit.
Might be worth checking out.
Hi Section8,
I haven't got that close yet. I am following the Rockwell disc brake tech I have researched on the web. Curious which hub is bigger the Rocks or H110s....That being said if the center hole register is bigger than the hub..it will be lug-centric. My preference would be hub-centric and machining the hub. I am also leaning towards mounting it outside the hub for an ever so slightly better turning radius.

PS I will get the part number of the rotors this weekend and post up.

PPS RockAuto beat everyone's price by around $50.00 when I bought mine.
 
Last edited:

gentrysgarage

Active member
553
118
43
Location
Lost Angels, CA
10.16.17 Update

I have to apologize Section8 I wrote the part number on my hand and forgot about it, washed my hands and it was gone!
On a better note snuck in some good work on m135,
I made a great complex, detailed, intricate template of the axle housing contour to allow the truck to move and help with singling it out at the same time. I came to the realization that if it took me an hour or so do plot out, how long would it take to replicate this great complex, detailed, intricate template of the axle housing contour in steel? Thats when reality kicked in and I just KISS'ed it!

IMG_0131.jpgIMG_0143.jpg(do not understand why 1st picture is auto-rotating when uploaded to SS resaved 3 times with MS paint even...mod heeellllp! LOL!)

I then removed the 120 lb each side overload springs

IMG_0133.jpgIMG_0136.jpg

I can tell the orientation of the truck just by the location size and number of wasp nests....care to play along? Most on passenger side with a concentration at the rear.

Got my pedals from Deuceman51 last week (THANKS Deuceman51!) 19 lbs

IMG_0134.jpg

And since I am on this weight kick the pillow block comes in at 26 lbs. I am always looking up the weight of stuff to estimate shipping and/or weight or weight savings...so I will weigh everything I can to help someone else out also!

IMG_0137.jpg

That's all for this update.
PS I will post up the pics of me making the template I have used this method with fabricating custom fit parts many times.




 

Attachments

Section8

Member
503
6
18
Location
Little Fort, B.C., Canada
No apologies necessary gentrysgarage.
I completely understand how hectic and busy a person can get.
I like the upside down pics. Are those g177 tires?
your frame looks nice and clean. Great job stripping it down!
I have also planned out things on my build to death. My wife tells me the reason I haven't made any real progress with mine is because I analyze it to death and never do the actual dead.
 

gentrysgarage

Active member
553
118
43
Location
Lost Angels, CA
I like the upside down pics.
I tried....LOL!

Are those g177 tires?
Sure are..on stock M35 rims

your frame looks nice and clean. Great job stripping it down!
Actually it came that way...I got lucky!

I have also planned out things on my build to death. My wife tells me the reason I haven't made any real progress with mine is because I analyze it to death and never do the actual dead.
Yeah we are in the same boat!! LOL!!
 

Shrapnel

Just a Hoosier stuck out west!
Steel Soldiers Supporter
384
0
16
Location
Delta, UT
What tires do you have on your M135? They look pretty new. I'm in the process of purchasing M135 wheels for my Deuce to single it out. Debating on going with 11.00-20 or 12.00R20 tires. Just curious what you're running.
 

gentrysgarage

Active member
553
118
43
Location
Lost Angels, CA
Hi Shrapnel,
They are g177 11r20s on stock m35 rims, have a top view picture and with one 11NTD on M135 rim and one with the M35 wheel I think it was 1/2"-3/4" more inset on the m35 wheel took a picture will try to find it for you.
 

Shrapnel

Just a Hoosier stuck out west!
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I thought they had more like a 2" difference in backspacing. A side by side picture would be very helpful.
 

gentrysgarage

Active member
553
118
43
Location
Lost Angels, CA
Maybe the 2 inch difference is with the M211 rim, the WWII splits I had looked to have very similar backspacing. I think the hub flip and brake drum "spacer"(center) had the most impact. Too bad you are so far away you could have the rims I took off (if you guarantee you would use them that is)
Here are the requested pics
IMG_2839.jpgIMG_2840.jpg
 

Shrapnel

Just a Hoosier stuck out west!
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
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Thanks for those pictures. That second picture (the overhead one) makes it look like there is a decent difference between the two.
 
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