M146 RV Conversion

[RAYZER]

Rayzer, what are your recommendations for capacity of balck and grey water tanks? Also a good source that you have found to buy these from at reasonable prices? I picked up my fresh water tank yesterday, but the balck and grey water ones seem high priced. And did you use 1/2" or 3/4" PEX tubing going to your shower? Thanks in advance for the info

My black water tank is 39 gal and the grey water is around 30 gal.(all I could fit), they were both the same size when I bought them, but had to modify the grey water down to make it fit.
I bought them off of eBay for around $90.00 ea, and that was a bargin! How big is your water tank? I used 1/2" pex for all of my pressure water system.

 

[RAYZER]

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[NDT]

Without looking through 53 pages of this thread (sorry), have you ever advised what BTU air conditioner is doing the trick for cooling your 146?

 

[caliber1]

There is a company in mid Florida that makes tanks to order, kinda pricey. They also have some common templates that are reasonable. Company is called dura-cast I think. Bought several tanks from them for busses. They are right on SR27.

 

[RAYZER]

Without looking through 53 pages of this thread (sorry), have you ever advised what BTU air conditioner is doing the trick for cooling your 146?

It's set up now with an 8k btu window shaker in the front, its not enough when its hot out and the trailer's sitting in the sun, I think it needs at least 12k btu to keep it cool.
I plan on upgrading soon and will have to cut a bigger hole.
Another problem is that theres no good way to aircondition the bathroom with this setup unless I just leave the door open.
I decided in the beginning to keep the ac off of the roof (rv roof unit) because of the increased height.
I may look into a unit that will mount underneath and can be ducted up through the floor if space underneath permits, but would like to keep it 120v ac.

 

[RAYZER]

Re: M146 RV ConversionM146 RV Conversion

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[SteveKuhn]

After you upgrade the AC, you might consider small in-wall fans down low that would push cold air in to the bathroom and others up high to pull warm, damp air out. Or maybe the high ones would work if there were sufficient square inches of pass-through registers at 12 - 18".

Steve

 

[Welder Sam]

Just a thought here but i have a 12k in my camper. 90+ degree heat and direct sunlight still keeps it warm in there

 

[SteveKuhn]

I thought about that capacity as well but as you go much further up, you start to bump in to 220 volts unless you use multiple units.

Steve

 

[agazza2]

My black water tank is 39 gal and the grey water is around 30 gal.(all I could fit), they were both the same size when I bought them, but had to modify the grey water down to make it fit.
I bought them off of eBay for around $90.00 ea, and that was a bargin! How big is your water tank? I used 1/2" pex for all of my pressure water system.

Thank you Rayzer. I went with a 42 gallon Fresh water tank.

 

[quickfarms]

Just a thought here but i have a 12k in my camper. 90+ degree heat and direct sunlight still keeps it warm in there

How big is your camper?

 

[LowTech]

I thick he's talking about his 109 box camper.

 

[Welder Sam]

I thick he's talking about his 109 box camper.

Yup. 8'x12' exterior..

Lowtech doesnt even NEED air conditioning in his!! Jealous!!

 

[budM931]

thanks rayzor! I will take your advice and seal the roof! any and all advice will be greatly appreciated including from agassa2. I ended picking the m146 trailer up on Tuesday and am heading to my first little truck/car show with it tomorrow! trying to decide if im going to pin the jack feet,lift the rear with blocks or put on super singles because of towing it with my m931A2. i will try to post pics this weekend and create my own link. if im just pulling it around town do I need air to the trailer I found out the brakes are really touchy (with no load) ?

 

[RAYZER]

Congratulations on your new m146 Bud! I have pulled mine around with my deuce with no air hooked up and it stopped fine, I dont think I would want to try it on a wet road though.
Your five ton shouldn't have a problem.

 

[Tow4]

Ray, here are the pictures of the kitchen counter in my RV. As I mentioned when we spoke on the phone, I think you could get by with a single sink. We never use the second sink and leave the cover on for more counter space. In fact, I can't remember using the second sink. You find out quickly that there is never enough counter space in an RV.

The counter is 24" deep and 5' 6" long. The sinks are about 12"W 14"L 6"D. The sink cover is just a thin sheet of Corian. There is a cover for both sides, but only one is shown.



The stove/oven is built into the end and has a folding cover that you open to use it. The cover also acts as a back splash guard to protect the wall while using the stove. We have used the oven for cooking a few times, but mostly it is used for storage.



There is a 12"W by 18"L fold down shelf outside of the stove that can be used for more counter space while cooking. We use it a lot, but don't leave it up when not using the stove because it partially blocks the door.



There are 3 drawers, and space under the sink for storage. A word about drawer slides; RV slides have a detent so the drawer has to be lifted slightly to open it. That keeps them from opening going down the road. Personal experience has shown you still need to secure them with a bungee or other tie when you travel.

If you install a stove or cook top, you should also think about an exhaust fan over it to help remove the heat from cooking.

I'm looking forward to see what you come up with!

 

[RAYZER]

Thanks Ray for posting those pics, I think I will go with a single sink setup and most likely a 2 burner cook top.
The counter top will be natural stone, 63" long by 20" wide
Here's a crude layout.

 

[Tow4]

Looks good Ray. It will no doubt be a work of art!

 

[59apache]

Ray,
i would stay away from stone. I assume it breaks. There are very natural looking (wood) countertops in stone design availible. Or go with stainless steel. I've also glued a stainless sheet metal on the wall, that is easy to clean.

The layout looks good! Especially the shaped corner.

 

[RAYZER]

Thanks Apache, the top will be small natural stone tiles installed over 1/4" hardee board glued over 1/2" hi density board, and using special thinset and grout for the tile, this should be rigid enough to keep cracks from occurring, and the special thinset and grout will give the tile a little room to flex.
I did think about using stainless, but I thought it might look too industrial and im going for a different look.
Reasoning subject to change