M35A2 fuel to injectors diagnostic issue

[doghead]

That is not a bleeder and should not be removed.

Sounds like your HH is bad.

Have you had this truck running before this problem happened?

 

[Gleeser]

No sir I haven't had it running. Was one of those "We were using it a few months ago" trucks. I lit it on ether one time and it popped right off but that's been it.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Is everything timed up? Might as well pull the HH. As much as you don't want to hear it, I think that might be the issue too. When you pulled the plug in the center of the HH and turned on the power, did fuel bleed out of the hole? I am getting ready to run some errands, feel free to call.

 

[Wildchild467]

Im sure you looked, but what about following the fuel lines from the tank all the way to the IP? crack the fitting on the pump so see if fuel comes out, next on the primary filter and so on. On my deuce, the fuel line under the radiator was crushed some but not to the point of restriction. I still replaced it anyway just so it was nice and round again.

 

[Gleeser]

When I pulled that plug and turned the ignition on yea fuel POURED out of the HH.

 

[Floridianson]

Yes the run position is the 7 o'clock and the off is back toward the motor. Let me see if I can find a pic of the pin on the HH lever.

Run real fast.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Funny man huh?

 

[Gleeser]

So the general consensus is to remove the HH? If so, I'll do that tomorrow.

 

[doghead]

I'd say so, then confirm everything else looks ok.

I haven't ever tried it but, I wonder if a good soak in some caustic acid might clean a bad hydraulic head.

 

[Gleeser]

Alright, I finally got back to this today. I have the old HH pulled and a rebuilt one sitting here ready to install. (Thanks gimpy) Anyway, when I pulled the old one and looked down in the case there was a little hockey puck shaped piece of steel, concave on one side and a 3 pronged clip (lack of a better term) I saw that these pieces were supposed to be attached to the bottom of the HH so I clipped it onto the new one. Could that have been the issue with not getting fuel into the lines?

Also, isn't there a bolt or something I need to swap from the old HH into the new HH? I was told there was but I don't know which one or where it's located.

 

[doghead]

If the wear button(concave on one side and a 3 pronged clip ) fell off and was down in the bottom of the IP, yes that could have been your problem.

If it fell off, while removing the HH, that was probably not your problem.

You do need to swap the button, with the rebuilt HH, since they don't come with one installed

Not sure about any bolt that needs to be swapped.

 

[Gleeser]

I think it was actually off before I pulled the HH. As tight as it clipped on and as easily as the HH came out I don't think it fell off when I removed it. The HH just slid out smooth as glass. No tapping or anything. Lucky I even noticed it down in there. Oh and nevermind on the bolt... that was the piece that I was told to swap. For some reason I had "bolt" stuck in my head instead of "button".

 

[doghead]

I think they can fall off, if the tappet rod sticks up in the HH.

 

[Floridianson]

Glad you found something. Let us know if she runs. There have been two problems that is hard to troubleshoot over the web just have to dig into it.
The outher will be the broken quill shaft that was posted.

I don't know for fact the the button will fall off but yes I could see that it could if tabs let loose and the shaft leaves pressure contact with button.


PS also 7 oclock pisition is full fuel or when it hits the left retaining screw for shut down shaft. 4 oclock would be off and 5 oclock might be run slash idle as set by the Gov./ idle screw

 

[gimpyrobb]

Sorry I missed this post, busy day today. Yes that button and Y shaped retainer is what needed to be swapped, not a bolt. You should be good to go. Don't throw away your old HH!

 

[Gleeser]

Alright, I got the rebuilt HH all installed today and all the high pressure lines put back on. Gear dropped in with the red mark lined up in the timing window (removed that way too) fuel cut off lever functioning smoothly and positioned correctly. fifteen gallon of diesel in the tank. All fuel tank lines hooked up, batteries all charged.

So... kick the switch on and let the LP run for about a minute, bleed the filters and try and start? I have heard a few people mention air into the tank to make a little pressure... should I do that or not? The LP is new and runs fuel through the lines so I didn't figure it was necessary but want to make sure. I want to do everything exactly correct on this start attempt.

I REALLY want this thing to light up!!!

 

[gimpyrobb]

You only need to add air to the fuel tank if the in-tank pump isn't working! What you posted sounds like a winning strategy! Let us know what happens.

 

[Gleeser]

Well, it's alive now. It started right up after I got everything bled and whatnot. I drove it in a big circle and parked it, walked around the front of the truck and there was a HUGE puddle of oil under it. It's just pouring oil out of the crankcase vent tube... what's that all about? Stuck ring or some crap?

 

[armadillofz1]

check your oil level. might be an extra 10 gallons of diesel in your crank case.

 

[gimpyrobb]

After we talked I thought about this for a bit. Try pulling the valve covers and see if there is anything blocking the oil return ports. Sounds to me like the oil is collecting there for some reason.