M416-A1 rebuild in progress!!!

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2ndchance

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Glendale, AZ
Tuesday 4/10: I've been struggling with what to do with the tires. Buy three new military tires @ $170 each? Buy three civilian tires and reuse military rims (and hope the don't leak) @ $120 each? Combine a 1/2" spacer and a 1.5" adapter (5x5.5 to 5x5), replace lug bolts with 3" ones, and use the two spare JK Moab 17" rims/tires I have left over from my first trailer build for $150 total.

Well, I decided. I'm going with matching JK Moab 17" rims/tires. As much as I wanted to keep the trailer as original as I could, I realized that I've already modified it from stock. It has a thicker tub bottom, modified cross members, hydraulic drain plugs, and upgraded shocks. I figured that I'm not going to be pulling this trailer on any parades. It's going to hold my camp gear, gun gear, and eventually will be converted to an expedition trailer.

With this in mind, having matching tires is a big plus. I only need to carry my one spare. There is a small savings on weight. I save $$$ upfront, but will have to spend $440 years down the line when I need to replace the tires with matching Falken ATS (like on my JK).

So, everything is on order. I should have them in hand in a few days.
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2ndchance

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Friday 4/13: Ohhh...!! A spooky day! Not for me. I came home to find 4 new Scepter 5Gal Jerry cans at my doorstep, along with my parts order from Jegs.Com.

To make the original hubs work with my JK Moab rims/times, I had to slightly modify the hubs to accept a bolt pattern adapter. I went to PepBoys and purchased four 1/4" spacers. They are part number: 106031. They are made by White Knight. Sorry, no link on their web site. You'll just have to call them or visit a store. They were $10 each.

Each hub needed 1/2" spacer to make the hub somewhat flush. The bolt pattern adapter needs that flush spot to fully support the extra weight of the tire. The adapter is also 1.5" thick, so I will get the proper backspacing (hopefully) to mount the tire.

To mount the bolt pattern adapter, I also needed longer lug bolts. That's where Jegs.com came in. I ordered two sets (10 total) of 1/2-20 in 3" lugs. Part number: 65111. I found this info on another forum. They were a perfect fit.

It's funny. The new lugs has a warning on the package that reads, "Do Not Use With Wheel Spacers!". LOL. Also, the spacers I purchase from PepBoys has a warning that reads, "Not For Off-Road Use."

My 5x5.5 to 5x5 1.5" adapter should arrive on Monday. Assuming I have enough backspacing, this project is DONE!



 

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srs78

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Hong Kong
Congratulations on your trailer! Thanks a lot for your unselfish well detailed account of your work. I have an M416-A1 which I hope to restore in same level that you've done with yours. Cheers!:beer:
 

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2ndchance

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You have a nice trailer there. It looks better than mine when I first got started.

I'm a bit bummed. I just opened up the Scepter Jerry cans and they don't fit in the Jerry can mounts. They are wider at the base. Sucks. Now, I have to fabricate something.
 

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2ndchance

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Seriously man, someone should make a Jerry Can mount that supports these Scepter CARB 5.3gal cans. These cans are $20 each, compared to $50-$150 for the Scepter military ones. ****, I would buy 4 of them right now!
 

2ndchance

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Glendale, AZ
Monday 4/16: I spent one crazy day at DMV, trying to register this trailer. I don't have a title, just a bill of sale. I removed the date plate during the rebuild and it turns out to be a federal offense. They didn't confiscate/crush my trailer, but I had to jump through many hoops to get this registered, titled, and plated.

Level II inspection ($25). AZ issued VIN tag. Titled as a manufactured trailer. Had to Bond a Title ($50). Still need to go back on my next day off and pay for the title ($4), registration ($8), and permanent plate ($125).

On a good note, I came home to my 1.5" wheel adapters. I'm ready to install my Jeep JK Moab 17" rims!

Once I put on the 1.5" adapters, I noticed that the new lug bolts stuck out by 1/2". The hub center also stuck out pretty far. Luckily, the rims had some nice recessed areas and it swallowed up the protrusions.

Man, these look sweet! Small problem, though. My fenders were not in the best of shape in the beginning. I had to reshape them a bit and I think I miscalculated the angles. Once I weighted the tub down with 400-lbs, the front of the right fender was touching the tire. With 550-lbs, both fenders were touching. Considering the trailer is rated for 500-lbs payload for cross country, I needed to increase the clearance of the fenders.

I already tried flipping the axle earlier on my build, but that didn't work because of the manual brake cable being to short. So, I had to break the corner welds on the fender, stretch them out a little, and re-weld them.

I don't weld. So, it's off to my buddies for a quick weld job.
 

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2ndchance

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Friday 4/20: Man, I've had a **** of a time working with my DMV. It took 4 trips to get it right. At the end, I had to get a Bond Title for 1.5x my purchase value, title it as a Home Made trailer, and pay $209 in various fees. I was able to get them to allow me to include a model # on my title.

She asked, "what would you like the model to be listed as"? I replied, "416A1". :)

Happy as I was, I felt motivated to fix the corner of the fender. My buddy welded it back together, I touched up the weld and repainted both fenders, so they matched.

As far as I am concerned, the build is finished. I may go back later and add another coat of bed liner, and maybe paint the outside of the tub silver, to match my Jeep.

Good luck on your builds. I hope the information I provided proves to be useful and a time saver. :razz:
 

Maxpowerzz

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Great build. I recently picked up a similar trailer and need to fix the floor, but I have only found your threads posted on a couple of different forums so far. Thanks for sharing the knowledge!
 

2ndchance

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Glendale, AZ
Glad I could help. Remember, if you cut out the floor like I did, replace it with a similar thin metal. Otherwise, welding the seams will prove REAL difficult.
 

Datajockeys

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Madison, AL
2ndchance,

Do you have any pics of the e-brake cable assembly / assembly run? I need to replace a hacked M416A1 e-brake cable setup so it actually works. The hand lever and parts going to the trailer underside seem unmolested, I just need info on the cable that goes between the wheels.

Searched the net for a replacement and can only find earlier M416 versions (not compatible). :deadhorse:
 

joshs1ofakindxj

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Pittsburgh, PA
2ndchance,

Do you have any pics of the e-brake cable assembly / assembly run? I need to replace a hacked M416A1 e-brake cable setup so it actually works. The hand lever and parts going to the trailer underside seem unmolested, I just need info on the cable that goes between the wheels.

Searched the net for a replacement and can only find earlier M416 versions (not compatible). :deadhorse:
Here is the M416 / M416A1 technical manual: http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/pdf/trailer/m416.pdf

If you go to page 76 and read on it has specific instructions for the M416A1 cable and some illustration.

Hope this helps.
 

Datajockeys

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Madison, AL
The manual only has info on the M416 cable. The A1 info is missing. Even in the back there are 2 listings for the M416 with and without the shielding but none for the M416A1. I have been searching the net for 2 weeks trying to find a replacement cable but had resolved to having one manufactured. Just need some pics and measurements.
 

2ndchance

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Glendale, AZ
Datajockeys, I sent you a PM. In a few weeks, I will be replacing my leaf springs. When I do that, I will take some macro photos, measurements, and anything else you need. Hopefully, you can get one made up. Please share with us who you used to make you a cable. I may need a replacement or a longer one, down the road.
 

XCavalryx

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Virginia USA
My m416a1 axle spindles look rough, lots of gouges on the metal. The inner bearing/race are shot as well, what's your recommendation? Great thread by the way!!
 

Datajockeys

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Madison, AL
That is pretty messed up. From what I can tell, you are looking at a new axle. The spindle needs to be somewhat intact to properly hold the inner bearing race. Please be careful and don't take shortcuts with this.
 

maddawg308

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Instead of a new axle, perhaps just have the axle spindle milled a little narrower and use a new-sized bearing to make up the difference?
 
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