• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

m818 brake issues

dburt

Member
329
4
18
Location
NE Oregon & SW Idaho
I like your adapter 'ring' for the hub removal. Good 'ole American ingenuity!
You will love the Plasma cutter- one of the most handy tools in the garage next to a heat wrench!
 

dezert ratt

Member
300
11
16
Location
menifee, ca
Finished my soldier b device today, it bolts to my 2k lb capacity trans jack. Slip it over the lugs, and zap a few lug nuts on. Now I can take all the hubs off the truck and hopefully not break my back or ruin the wheel bearings and spindles.uploadfromtaptalk1331857754224.jpg uploadfromtaptalk1331857771619.jpg uploadfromtaptalk1331857788077.jpg
 

dezert ratt

Member
300
11
16
Location
menifee, ca
So today I took my passenger from hub off, it was on there tight due to the linings dragging on the drum. After finally getting the hub to slide off, I inspected the hardware and could not find anything broken or out of place ... now I'm stumped why this side is dragging. The adjusters move freely with the hub off.
 
Last edited:

Tow4

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,087
619
113
Location
Orlando, FL
It might be better to figure out what the problem is. The TM will tell you how to adjust the brake shoes. If there is nothing wrong with the hardware up front, then it is either bearings or the airpack or master cylinder. Oh yeah, wheel cylinder could be sticking too. None of those will be fixed by replacing the backing plate and associated parts.

You can have someone push the brake pedal slowly with their hand and watch the shoes move. Make sure both move. You can also back the top adjusters off and watch the shoes push the pistons in to the wheel cylinder. Then push on the brake pedal and make sure they both move. You may have to pry on one shoe to keep it from moving to make sure to other moves too. Be careful you don't push the pistons out of the wheel cylinder.
 

dezert ratt

Member
300
11
16
Location
menifee, ca
Earlier in my thread I posted what was goin on, the kicker is when I pulled the hub, everything looked OK. I replaced the adjusting hardware, backing plate, wheel cylinder, linings, hub, and drum. Drove the truck 30 miles with no issues. Now I just need to rebuild the leaking airpack. And I'm guessing the old wheel cylinder was the culprit. It appears it was sticking and not letting the brake shoes retract all the way.
 

jokernatas

New member
14
0
0
Location
High Point NC
I also have 5 ton brake problems, I just got the truck a few weeks ago for the last owner of 9 years. I had a 21 mile drive home when picking it up, did a check of fluids tires lights rolling brake test and so on. The drive went good till less than 1 mile from my place when I felt the brakes draggin a bit.Made it home and parked the truck and about 5 minutes later a loud POP came from the passenger side front duels followed by smoke for a minute or 2. Now it seems that wheel locks up when the air pressure builds up but will free spin when the pressure is low. I am very GREEN in the 5 ton world and I plan a long life with this truck, at is a 1955 M54 ....Any help or info will be great, Thanks
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks