manual glowplug operation

[xenocath]

i have a manual glow plug set up from a previous owner, as well as quite a few modifications to the truck in general i am still seeking them all out . up till a few days ago the glowplug card was fine and i think all it did was operate the wait light circuit. well i was driving to work and the wait light came on and i guess the card started burning up. the other day i pulled apart dash and found the card it was of course burnt . i know the truck runs with the card missing, my question is will there be any long term bad effects from just removing the card and using the push button for the glowplugs? does that card control any other important function other than wait light and glowplugs? forgot to say i own an 86 m1008. thank you in advance for the help. yes i did a search for the manual conversion and i did not get the answer i was looking for from the posts.

Buck

 

[1986Blazerk5]

I removed the card and just use the push button system, works great, what brand of glow plugs do you have?

 

[xenocath]

I am really not sure yet i will probably replace what is there soon as i can so i am sure about what is in it and when it was done last. Any recommendations on what would be better the wellmans or the ac's?

 

[1986Blazerk5]

I have had the acdelco's for 8 months or so and not one has blown up, if your using a push button system i would recommend the acdelco's because they are self-regulating temperature, which means they cant swell up at the tips.

GET THE AC60G'S!!!!!!

 

[84cucv1ton]

i didnt know that about the ac60s. who has the best price for them?

 

[acmunro]

I'll second the AC 60g's when using the manual glow plug system. I prefer the conversion. The majority of my trucks have the glow plug card removed and the resistor bypassed.

 

[84cucv1ton]

i do the same as acmunro, using the m1010 yet ?

 

[acmunro]

I have the Injector pump off. I will be reinstalling the IP next week and then painting it. I removed what was left of the Air Cond and installed a window unit where it came out.

 

[84cucv1ton]

ok didnt work i guess

 

[acmunro]

The AC didn't work the compressor was missing and the system was open when I got it. I am using this one for a work truck and would use the AC mostly when stationary. I can use thewindow unit with my small generator and keep cool while not burning Diesel fuel.

 

[84cucv1ton]

ok glad it worked out

 

[1986Blazerk5]

The AC60G's are $8.99 at Oreillys auto parts, the most expensive place i found was NAPA

 

[ssgtcampbell77]

So I went to start my truck yesterday (1985 100 and the wait to start light stayed on for almost a minute. Then when I started it, the light came back on while cranking. So I used the TM and trouble shot the gp system. Plugs are 5 days old, relay clunks when in the run position. Got 24V on the top stud (red wire), 12 volts at top small stud (light blue), 12V at bottom small stud (pink & black) and nothing at bottom big stud (3 orange). I tried the push button (removed light blue wire from stud and ran a wire from that stud to a push button. Grounded the push button (its a light up button). Removed the gp module card, turned key to run, pushed the button (lit up red) and got 0 volts at the plug wires. The card looks good to go as far as I can tell. I am ordering one from antennaclimber just to be safe but I need the push button to get by till then. Any suggestions?

 

[Warthog]

sounds like your relay is bad.

With the 'clunk" sound the coil should be good but the internal contacts are not passing the 24v thru.

 

[ssgtcampbell77]

Thats what I thought, just didn't wanna waste money on a relay if I had missed something. Question, is it the relay that drops the 24Vs to 12Vs or the card? From the schematics Im thinking the relay and from what I read on here.....everyone gets so technical I don't really understand it. Thanks.

 

[mistaken1]

It is the resistor on the firewall that drops the voltage from 24V to 12V (only when current flows) not the relay and definitely not the card.

 

[1stSarge]

-----resisting the urge to draw pictures----

 

[ssgtcampbell77]

Do it. I love pictures. The resistor is getting 24 and putting out 24. From looking at the schematics, that is how it should work. The troubleshooting manual says I should be getting 24V at the top terminal of the relay. Draw me some pictures.....im a visual kinda dude.

 

[Warthog]

It is the resistor on the firewall that drops the voltage from 24V to 12V (only when current flows) not the relay and definitely not the card.

And don't foget the glowplug are part of the equation. It is the glowplugs and the resistor working together that drops the voltage.

The relay has nothing to with it except making contact and providing a current path.

 

[Warthog]

Do it. I love pictures. The resistor is getting 24 and putting out 24. From looking at the schematics, that is how it should work. The troubleshooting manual says I should be getting 24V at the top terminal of the relay. Draw me some pictures.....im a visual kinda dude.

He did just the other day. Where you sleeping in class????

Must have been because it was your thread.....

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/66679-24-volt-relay-fuel-bleeder-screw.html?highlight=resistor