• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

MEP-002 - PC (Timing mark) Why can't I see mine?

PJDiesel

New member
36
0
0
Location
Port Deposit, MD
I see "A" , some dashes, and what appears to be maybe an "O" or....?

What am I missing here. I have my pump off and pinned, (hopefully operational) and can't get the flywheel lined up to anything looking like an arrow with PC on it....

Help.:?:
 
Last edited by a moderator:

PJDiesel

New member
36
0
0
Location
Port Deposit, MD
MEP-002.

I popped the pump off, freed it up by soaking it in a gallon of non solvent carb cleaner, slapped it back on without thinking far enough to realize it HAS to be timed to run properly... (Sunday night)

So,..... it RAN, not well, but at least ran, now that I took it back off, pinned the pump and lined up the timing,..... no run, not even trying to pop over at this point.

Frustrating.
 
Last edited:

PJDiesel

New member
36
0
0
Location
Port Deposit, MD
Symptoms (when running but too ignorant to time) were ran nice and smooth for about 1.5 minutes, then chugged a few seconds, puffed white smoke and died. Seemed a lot like a starvation issue, but I am getting a solid flow back to the tank, filters are new, strainer was cleaned up, lines were checked....

I can't imagine it running (smoothly) for any kind of time period with a "bad" IP, just doesnt' make sense to run well,...THEN die.
 

storeman

Well-known member
1,345
52
48
Location
Mathews County, VA
The PC is not far from the "A". "B" is 180 degrees out from "A". If you can't find your timing mark (take index off after you have traced around its position, or if painted, the paint shadow will mark it well). The "O" you are seeing is likely the "C" in "PC". Larger hole will allow you to use a bright light. Sand the PC marks with paper on a flat stick or use a small stiff wire brush. Once marks are cleaned off, paint them then wipe off paint to leave some in engraved marks. I also paint the closest edge of the cooling fan to made rough alignment easier.

I have found that a bad injector will allow an 002A to run smoothly for a short time then die. I spent a long time 3 weeks ago trying to chase down a suspected air leak when it was actually an injector. Rebuilt it and all is well.

Jerry :grd:

Jerry
 

PJDiesel

New member
36
0
0
Location
Port Deposit, MD
The "O" was indeed a "P" as you suggested. I am charging my batteries to give another whirl, got some puffs out of it a few minutes ago.

The paperwork I have on this one claims it had a "leaky" injector seal, supposed compression leak at that point.

Not sure if they repaired it, or just noted it. I'm not getting any fuel leakage (sheet also noted that).

If I can't get it to behave (tonight) I guess I'll need to have someone look at the injectors.
 

storeman

Well-known member
1,345
52
48
Location
Mathews County, VA
If it runs and cuts off again, test the temp of the injectors. I don't have an IR temp sensor but I sure can tell by touch if one is way hotter than the other, if so, the cooler one will likely be your problem.

Jerry :grd:
 

Speddmon

Blind squirrel rehabiltator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,640
28
38
Location
Cambridge, Ohio
Flow time the pump. When you are using the PC mark, you are relying on a pointer bolted to the side of the housing to point to the right location...are you sure it's pointing to the right location or did someone move it a little???

Before you spend money on the injectors, especially if it ran beforehand...do it right and FLOW TIME the pump.
 

PJDiesel

New member
36
0
0
Location
Port Deposit, MD
If it runs and cuts off again, test the temp of the injectors. I don't have an IR temp sensor but I sure can tell by touch if one is way hotter than the other, if so, the cooler one will likely be your problem. Jerry
Just got in from my evening diesel bath. (shower at some points this particular night).
I didn't read this until I gave up and cleaned up. It is NOT a supply issue, I bypassed all the filters and the check, ran a line straight from the pump to the IP, same symptoms, runs anywhere from 30 seconds to about 1.5 minutes, chugs white smoke (slows) and I shut it off or it dies.

Flow time the pump. When you are using the PC mark, you are relying on a pointer bolted to the side of the housing to point to the right location...are you sure it's pointing to the right location or did someone move it a little???

Before you spend money on the injectors, especially if it ran beforehand...do it right and FLOW TIME the pump.
I will, I just got it back on (timed via "method 1"?) and wanted to give it a try. I will flow time it before anything else, but I'm doubting it being off a little would cause it to go from smooth to terrible. Seems like a timing issue (if slight) would just cause overall poor running conditions. No?
 

storeman

Well-known member
1,345
52
48
Location
Mathews County, VA
Supply is not the issue, obviously, but supply through the injector to the cylinder may be. Did you check the hotness one injector area of the head to the other injector area? Even now, after running, you "might" notice a difference.
 

PJDiesel

New member
36
0
0
Location
Port Deposit, MD
Well, It's been an hour, one was at 126*, the other at 132* I think the whole unit just kinda "sinked" (sp?).

I need to be 100% sure on the timing, then go from there. I REALLY hope it's not an IP issue.....
 

LuckyDog

Member
394
11
18
Location
Freedom, NH
I REALLY hope it's not an IP issue.....
Don't sweat the IP problem. You've had the IP off and back on with timing. REALLY that is the hardest part I found. I rebuilt the IP myself. Others here have too. The AMBAC site has a good illustration, the TM was easy enough to follow. The parts are cheap enough.

Now, there are IP's that I would be afraid to try and fix without special tools. This isn't one of them. (Having an extra set of hands helped get a retaining ring out.)

So, troubleshoot correctly and don't be afraid of the IP. I believe it is better to rebuild you own IP than get a rebuilt and try to find the correct timing button.

just my 2cents
 

PJDiesel

New member
36
0
0
Location
Port Deposit, MD
Egh....

It's better for me (and my sanity) to plop this thing in a box with some cash included and mail it off to someone like yourself who isn't afraid.

I guess eliminating injectors as a possible issue is the first route, although, with it being totally stuck (in) when I took it off, it might be wishful thinking that it's not simply an IP issue.
 

PJDiesel

New member
36
0
0
Location
Port Deposit, MD
I have found that a bad injector will allow an 002A to run smoothly for a short time then die. I spent a long time 3 weeks ago trying to chase down a suspected air leak when it was actually an injector. Rebuilt it and all is well.

Jerry

Jerry
We may be onto something here. I have one injector (cylinder?) that never really gets warm. I'm showing between 98* and 105* on the back (right when facing) cylinder, and a very consistent 135-140 on the front one......

Runs like a top for about 1 to 1.5 minutes after a "hard" start, puts out a very steady 60HZ, then starts to sound a little funny, slows down a bit, then..... white smoke and dead.
I double checked the timing this morning, dead on, plus, I don't see it running SO well with a timing issue.

Thoughts?
 

Speddmon

Blind squirrel rehabiltator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,640
28
38
Location
Cambridge, Ohio
Under the area behind the big cap.


where exactly would this be?


If you flow timed the pump and it didn't help much, then I'll bet the pump itself needs rebuilt. This should have been the first thing you went to before injectors. The fact that you
popped the pump off, freed it up by soaking it in a gallon of non solvent carb cleaner
should have been your fist clue the pump needs rebuild. Just because you freed it up doesn't mean the internals are working properly.
 

PJDiesel

New member
36
0
0
Location
Port Deposit, MD
where exactly would this be?


If you flow timed the pump and it didn't help much, then I'll bet the pump itself needs rebuilt. This should have been the first thing you went to before injectors. The fact that you should have been your fist clue the pump needs rebuild. Just because you freed it up doesn't mean the internals are working properly.
It was a clue, but having it purr like a kitten for 2 solid minutes (then die) kinda of had me chasing a supply (or other) possible issue first,

I didn't "flow time" the pump because there is no other way for me to change the timing beyond putting the pump on wrong (per the flywheel/pinned pump) method.
In other words, it the timing was off (via flow method), what could I change to make it any better, this is an original pump (and button).
 
Top