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I knew it wasn't a drop-in part and would require drilling.Correct! As mentioned in the original post that transducer is not meant to be a drop in replacement, but rather an affordable / available substitute.
There was a time when the originals were still available in NOS form, but at an insane price of close to $500!
For the sake of drilling a couple holes you probably saved about $485
You did all the work!I did a three hour load test yesterday and it did fantastic.
Started light and worked up the load.
Held 100-110% for well over an hour no sweat.
Even did a 120% load for about 20 minutes and it finally kicked the breaker.
Was a warm day (90+) and breaker reset fine and continued to handle a 90-100% load just fine.
It didn't smoke as much as I thought it would.
It did clear up a lot, but I have two-cycle oil in the fuel, so it never cleared up completely.
The Hz and voltage held just fine.
Engine sounded great and was even louder when under 100% load.
Very happy with it and worth the investment
Still need to clean crankcase breather, install NOS Slave Port w/cables, install NOS cylinder head temp sensor. and install NOS Control Panel
Will also change oil and filter.
A Huge Thank You to everyone who helped with parts, advice and wisdom.
You will also want to replace the LOP sensor, if you havent done so (and put one in the parts box in your garage). The 00x are real robust machines.I did a three hour load test yesterday and it did fantastic.
Started light and worked up the load.
Held 100-110% for well over an hour no sweat.
Even did a 120% load for about 20 minutes and it finally kicked the breaker.
Was a warm day (90+) and breaker reset fine and continued to handle a 90-100% load just fine.
It didn't smoke as much as I thought it would.
It did clear up a lot, but I have two-cycle oil in the fuel, so it never cleared up completely.
The Hz and voltage held just fine.
Engine sounded great and was even louder when under 100% load.
Very happy with it and worth the investment
Still need to clean crankcase breather, install NOS Slave Port w/cables, install NOS cylinder head temp sensor. and install NOS Control Panel
Will also change oil and filter.
A Huge Thank You to everyone who helped with parts, advice and wisdom.
NoWhen you say it kicked the breaker are you doing the load test from the convenience outlets?
I will do just that.You will also want to replace the LOP sensor, if you havent done so (and put one in the parts box in your garage). The 00x are real robust machines.
With a lot of Help/guidance from you guys !!!You did all the work!
As far as how the MEP-002/003 Main Breaker works you should read this Sticky by Sewerzuk if you haven't already. It explains a lot & dives pretty deep into characteristics of that breaker. I need to re-read it myself again as I've forgotten a lot of what was said. Be sure to read the sticky all the way through as it has nuggets of information that are explained in various ways throughout the conversations back & forth.
Happy to hear your load test was successful! I'm about ready to do that with my recent acquisition of my #5 genset. I just finished yesterday removing the "Hillbilly battery tray" that was on it & replacing with complete OEM battery tray I purchased off eBay recently. Looks a lot better than the plywood, 2x6's & bungies that held the batteries in place before.
I'll look at mine tomorrow if someone else doesn't beat me to it.So a while ago I ordered a NOS slave plug with
Cables.
My intention was to replace whole unit as the original cables look horrible.
They work fine, just look terrible.
Doing a NSN search, I found and ordered the NOS part.
When part arrived, the positive cable is the same length as the original, but the negative cable is much shorter than original. At least half.
It will not come close to reaching the starter ground.
Positive cable will reach.
Question is, does the negative cable have to go to starter or just be grounded?
If just grounded, to engine block or frame?
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